Jump to content

Old Elgin Losing Time


Recommended Posts

You need to post pictures from a timegrapher or equivalent application,  If it could be possible that some application could read your files or even interpret from playback, but that would never be good as a first person observation.

Otherwise all you could read here are generic statements like "clean and service the movement" - which in fact should certainly be done, or "something is touching and ringing", again you will not know what until the mov.r is taken apart, cleaned, inspected and lubricated by a competent person.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have been looking after your watch, I would say a good service. It is quite old and the mainspring could be tired, therefore the movement will not work on poor power this its self would cause the watch to keep poor time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you make the movement spacer yourself with a 3-d printer? How has it held up with regards to the material.

I've been thinking about getting into this but I've heard the cheaper DIY material is not stable.. ie degrades.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys,

JDM- I don't have a timegrapher, I do this for fun. It is interesting though that your answer is similar to one I received on Timezone also in the watchmaking and repair forum. If I was working on an antique car and posted a question on a forum I would get a ton of answers and opinions of how to fix something, but in watches the answer is almost always the same, go to a watchmaker or seek a "competent person". I am involved with watches because I enjoy it, of course I could just pay someone to do it for me but then it's not much of a hobby is it?

oldhippy- Thanks, I have ordered a new mainspring but because the sound almost sounded like a pinging I was hoping that might be familiar to someone in regards of where the problem might lie. I do own an L&R cleaning machine but have not cleaned or oiled the watch for a year. It was just that the sound sounded unique. I'll see what happens when I put in the new main spring. Thanks

 

Anilv- Yes, I 3d printed the movement holder. The hard part was making a new stem that would lock in as the original watch was spring loaded to wind or change the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, rauld said:

JDM- I don't have a timegrapher, I do this for fun. It is interesting though that your answer is similar to one I received on Timezone also in the watchmaking and repair forum. If I was working on an antique car and posted a question on a forum I would get a ton of answers and opinions of how to fix something, but in watches the answer is almost always the same, go to a watchmaker or seek a "competent person". I am involved with watches because I enjoy it, of course I could just pay someone to do it for me but then it's not much of a hobby is it?

Most of us here do this for fun. A timegrapher is an essential tool, fortunately it's not expensive neither in physical or application form, much cheaper than a vintage cleaning machine, but much more useful.
Not knowing your experience and skills I suggested that you bring it to a competent person to avoid the possibility of ruining something that seems you care for. Of course if you know how to work on a movement yourself that's even better. I also love working on cars and motorbikes (was a professional when younger) but found that watch work is much more difficult than anything else, at least under the manual dexterity aspect.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

JDM- Sorry, I wasn't trying to be difficult but there is something about watchmakers, ask for golf advice- a million answers, home repair- too many opinions. Go on a forum for watch repair and the answer usually is "take it to a watchmaker". A friend of mine actually is a watchmaker for Audemars Piguet and he doesn't work on anything old, he thinks they are "too finicky", in my opinion he is more of a technician, he just replaces components or parts, he doesn't really repair anything. If I didn't have a family to support I would consider going to Horology school just because I like it.

I certainly agree that working on a watch movement is a unique skill, maybe I'll think about buying a timegrapher.

Thanks, Rauld

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
On 7/6/2018 at 11:23 PM, rauld said:

JDM- Sorry, I wasn't trying to be difficult but there is something about watchmakers, ask for golf advice- a million answers, home repair- too many opinions. Go on a forum for watch repair and the answer usually is "take it to a watchmaker". A friend of mine actually is a watchmaker for Audemars Piguet and he doesn't work on anything old, he thinks they are "too finicky", in my opinion he is more of a technician, he just replaces components or parts, he doesn't really repair anything. If I didn't have a family to support I would consider going to Horology school just because I like it.

I certainly agree that working on a watch movement is a unique skill, maybe I'll think about buying a timegrapher.

Thanks, Rauld

Hi Rauld, This is an excellent forum and I agree that there is little help outside of it these days. The "trade" tries hard to keep repairs and knowledge for themselves and can be even rude to amateur hobbyists and Jobbers like myself at times. I received a lot of part time training as a young lad many years ago from a Vacheron trained watchmaker friend and it has stood me in good stead for the small amount of repairs that I carry out. This, WRT, and de Carles and Fried`s books for reference is the way I go. Best regards, Mike. (ecodec) 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Personally I would salvage the missing screws from some donor movement.  I also bought a random selection of screws "Assortment of Stainless Steel Watch Screws" for next to nothing.  As for using an Alum solution - I had great success with that removing a rusted stem from a stainless steel crown.  The best piece of advice I read on doing that was to keep the solution warm so that the reaction didn't take weeks!  I did it in a couple of hours with the solution in jam jar and the jam jar in a saucepan full of water which I left on an induction hob maintaining about 60C in the Alum solution.
    • I decided that it was time to tackle the piece that I'd set aside as my first project. The subject in question is a Gruen Veri-Thin pocket watch.  It winds and "runs".  On the time grapher, it has reasonable amplitude (240 or so depending on the position), but was loosing close to a minute a day.  The stem also has the annoying tendency to just come out when pulled, which makes it super hard to set the thing.  As with many things this one started sideways and just got more so.  I was able to overcome the mangled "tab" on the back case cover (a well placed, very sharp knife enabled me to get in when I couldn't get a purchase on the mangled tab with a case knife.)   I was then sort of shocked to find that one side of the dial was held down with some sort off tape or adhesive material as someone had broken the dial foot screw on that side and left the broken screw in the mail plate. The loose stem does in fact seem to have been a poorly tightened setting lever screw, but I'm afraid there may still be gremlins in the keyless works.  While I was able to get the stem to stay in by putting everything in the right place and tightening the setting lever screw (before I took it all apart for cleaning and inspection), it just didn't seem to all sit right. The final gremlin showed up when I was taking off the lower cap stones for the balance and escape wheel (yes the Gruen 380 seems to have a cape jewel on the escape wheel).  The balance stone came off fine (but that in fact is the smallest screw I've ever seen.  When I turned the movement around to get the one off the escape wheel setting, I found that the screw head had been mostly sheared off.  After some reading and looking at what I had, I decided to try and tease what was left of the screw out of the hole by nudging what was left with the corner of my smallest screwdriver.  After 20 minutes or so, I was able to get the remains of that screw out. The picture I'm including of the disassembled movement was taken before I got the second cap stone off, so in the picture, it's still attached to the main plate (for those looking carefully, you'll only see the one cap setting in the pic.) Now I'm left with: A broken dial screw inside the main plate that needs to come out A broken cap stone retention screw that I have in my parts tray, but that is strictly useless and needs to be replaced. The need to get another dial foot screw I'm contemplating solving the first problem by soaking the main plate in an alum solution.  I think the main plate is brass and shouldn't be affected, but I have not been able to confirm.  This seems like the easiest option as I can't really access both sides of the screw to use the pricey Bergeon tool (which I don't fancy buying unless I have to.) I have located a couple of donor movements and have questions out about whether or not the include the dial foot screw and prompting for pictures of the dial side so  evaluate the cap stone settings.  I've also found that a supplier in this country does have the cap stone settings, but isn't overly clear about whether the screws are included. Are these the types of things that one can scavenge out of assortments or is it best to just grab one of the donors assuming that they look like they have what I need?  
    • I visited this place last year just before they closed their counter service - amazing shop (filled from floor to ceiling!) and the guy that was working there was really knowledgeable and helpful!. Their website isn't as good as Cousins but I understand that if you fill out the contact form they have stuff that isn't on the site. https://gleave.london/mineral-flat-bottom-domed/
    • As always in this game the answer is “it depends “ because the first one worked out ok doesn’t mean all will. A case could be made in a way that it would not really matter much, sounds like your first example. However a case could also be made so that only a tension armoured crystal could be used. Generally you replace like for like to maintain the integrity of the watch.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...