Jump to content

Question On Determining Service Needs?


Gary

Recommended Posts

So I have a question about service and service intervals. What criteria do you use for service? Timekeeping -+ or determined schedule regardless?

Just curious and looking for a best practices approach ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My take would be five to seven years between services with new synthetic oils. If you buy an old watch without history, then better to have it serviced as soon a s possible. I'm sure other will have different views.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

   A watchmaker years ago gave me his business card. I don't remember how long ago that was but you can tell how worn it is now. On the back he explains his theory of service intervals. Of course things have changed with the times but I just like the card. I took a picture with my smart phone but I think you should be able to read it.

Charles K

post-250-0-62251300-1412718787_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the card, thank you for posting Charles!

 

Now the question is settled and the formula found. No half years and round up (0.6 > 0.5 = 1 :

 

New formula: 5 years +7 years +2 years ┐- 4 =14/3  ┐- 4 = 4.666666666666667  ┐- 4 = 5 - 4 = 1 :woohoo-jumping-smiley-emoticon: 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look at the whole watch.

 

If the case is reasonable tight.. (waterproof is good). and used normally. then I'd say you're good for 5 years. This is for good quality newer watches like omega, seikos... you get the idea. Not only is dust getting in the case a problem.. if the watch is not reasonably tight the oils will dry out faster.

 

If the watch is not wterproof and / or sees rough use I would adjust the interval to around 2 years, talk to the owner to see how he plans to use the watch. Russian watches have a combination of poor cases and designed with a weaker mainspring than is usually found in a similar swiss watch.. hence need to be serviced more regularly.

 

Watches with hi-beat (36000bph) needs good fresh oil.

 

Chronos need servicing at 5yrs ... anything more is pushing it.

 

Dress watches with slim mvts have less powerful springs and fine pivots (less energy available) and need more frequent servicing. Dress watch cases are also pretty easily compromised! You will usually see them coming in regularly for service as they spend a lot of time in the drawer waiting for special occassions and the oil dries out.. result non-running watch.

then maybe learn

As Geo said, if you dont know the history... get it serviced.

 

 

HTH

Anil

 

Some watches have weak points.. the intermediate winding gear on the automatic module on some Zenith chronos is a good example. On a lesser note, seikos are generally fine but the rotor bearing inariably wears.

 

Rolexes will tolerate a lot of abuse due to the integrity of the case but you will sometimes come across models with a lot of wear as the robust movements keep on working ... worn rotor bearings is common on older rolexes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So my Benrus just had the winding stem fall out. Will not wear it tomorrow :D. Guess what watch is on the table for a strip and clean (FIRST). Then the hour hand disintegrated. But my question is what can I clean the dial with? It looks like tarnish or a grayish gummy substance? Posting photo. Any direction?

post-337-0-22130600-1412744191_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think that watch dial is salvageable..I looks like the paint (silvered?) is flaking off and any further intervention will lead to more of it dissappearing.

 

Cleaning is one thing but how do you clean something that is missing?

 

Redial is an (expensive) option, does the watch have sentimental value? 

 

Before commiting to a redial, I would service it.. no point having a nice dial but later discovering the movement has issues which costs more money! A lot of these older watches have cracked jewels... they still run but to get it done right means replacing the jewel/s and not many people do that anymore...(expensive!).

 

Also these dials look bad outside the case but once you get it back in the case it may not be so bad.. some of them had chunky cases and crystals so the bad dial may not be so obvious. Try to mildly polish the hands and use a toothpick with the point cut to a chisel shapr to clean up the hour markers on the dia, you may find that its not that bad after all!

 

Anil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Gary, use a cotton bud dampened with a very dilurt solution of washing up liquid and very gently swab the dial. Finish swabbing with clean water to ensure that all traces of detergent is removed.

You could also try a cotton bud and iso-propyl alcohol, but try it on an edge first to make sure things are OK before doing the whole dial.

Do not use cellulose thinners, acetone or an ultrasonic cleaner, all will damage to the delicate finish.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I would say it does depend on how the keyless works are set up, i have had it happen once before. Pulling the stem  to time set mode can also be a problem, that puts the yoke or setting lever under tension from it's spring and without the extra stability once the stem has been withdrawn and the set screw being loosened the yoke can flick over it's spring or something else.
    • The non-lantern pinion and wheel combo are actually for the motion works.  It drives the center wheel.  Both the power and chime trains (including the regulator) are all lantern pinion style.  The trundles in the lantern pinions all look to have no direct wear from the wheels - no rutting evident under magnification. 
    • Episode 3: Cleaning and New Surprises Alongside the aforementioned broken screw, while cleaning the parts, I found that the mainspring appeared intact only due to the years of grease. Additionally, one of the pushers seems was missing a screw at some time, and it looks like someone attempted to turn down a new one. Mainspring: Although I would love to use strictly original parts, I believe this might be a bit time-consuming and potentially expensive. Cousins has two options: 1.30 x 0.145 x 420 x 13 and 1.30 x 0.15 x 460 x 13, both non-automatic. The first one matches the original better, but I was wondering, would it be a good idea to use a longer, thicker one? It might provide a bit more run time, but I'm not sure if it's worth adding more energy to a vintage watch (both, judging by the specs provided, fit a 13mm barrel). What do you guys think? Pusher screws: Should I keep the existing screws, following the principle of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," or should I replace them?  
    • The watch is for my collection and I would love to get it back into a serviceable condition but there are no identifying marks on the movement apart from the number 1 stamped under the balance cock
    • Hi I bought this watch not working to repair because of the unusual automatic module, however I can't seem to identify the movement or Maker. The main movement is 11 1/2''' 21 jewels, the escape wheel pictured has both pivots broken Can anyone shed any light on the make and calibre?
×
×
  • Create New...