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Where to get a good assortment of Jewels


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I recently damaged a escapement wheel jewel while servicing a non-runner from ebay. I removed the jewels and measured. Lucky I have a watch repair shop in town so I hit them up and purchased a couple of jewels.

I want to have an assortment of my own. I notice that CousinsUK has a 1000 piece assortment. Cousins part# J47732

Is this a good option instead of buying one at a time?

Thoughts and comments please.

 

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When it comes to parts you can never have enough. Always good to have spairs such as jewels, don't forget there are a few types so make sure at first you get the correct type. Go to auctions, look through local papers, watch repairers retiring or closing down and ebay.   

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I have a stash of jewels that i have picked up through eBay over the years. However it's surprising the amount of times I have required a jewel but have not got the correct size. Cousins supply jewels but the prices have increased significantly. If you want to just a have a selection in stock this company supplies at a reasonable price.

http://redroosteruk.com/100-vintage-watch-jewels/

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I gave up on these generic no size selections some time ago as you need to measure each jewel accurately to be of any use. Not many of them seem to end up the type you need either. I buy up, as cheaply as I can, small second hand jewel lots where they are already graded by size and type. I have managed to build a good mixed selection that way.

Stephen

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Well, being a glutton for punishment I ordered the 1000 piece assortment from cousins. Along with staffs and stem assortments. 

Since this is in the hobby stage I don't mind spending time sorting though to find something that might work. 

Actually probably get more use from the stem assortment since some of the non runners I get from eBay have no stems. 

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Chadders1966 has the right idea, I have bags of generic jewel sizes and I can tell you now that tipping all these out to try to find the correct size is painstaking to say the least, although you do learn quite quick how to gauge sizes by eye alone ( ball park size that is ) 

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    • Yes, I was referring to the (jewelled) gear train with HP (most of the time, I use 1300, but when Rolex says 1000, I'll use 1000).
    • did I miss the update of the message of something changing?      
    • I suppose it would depend upon what your lubricating with those? for instance what does the manufacturer say about those lubricants? I have a PDF from the manufacture and a rather peculiar statement found on the bottom of the chart. my suspicion is the reason the recommending would be without epilam the HP oils like the spread except when they're in Ruby jewel's with steel pivots. tableEN lubrication 2020.pdf
    • These types of hairsprings become weak with age and very fragile. Which I expect it is that giving you trouble, and that wheel is not the correct one, if it were not bent I don't think the movement would run as the teeth are not the correct height. The problem you have is price which depends on you. It can be repaired but is it worth it to you, because there is little value in the clock. A wheel can be made and hairspring replaced. Or hang on to it and keep looking on ebay which is your best bet for replacement parts or even a complete movement but it will be like finding a needle in a haystack. 
    • I did that also for a few movements - well, mainly in/around the train jewels. I made big efforts to epilame the mainplate WITHOUT getting Epilame into the Pallet fork jewels (where it's not supposed to be, right?). I made litte barriers with Rodico around that jewel and used drops from a syringe to apply on the rest.  However, I've now stopped doing this. For three reasons: 1. It's a hassle and consumes more of this liquid gold. 2. I didn't see the need when using HP1000/HP1300 lubricants and grease for most part. The two places where I'd use 9010 (i.e. escape wheel and balance) receive Epilame in specific places... or the cap-jewel-setting of the balance suspends the oil sufficiently be capillary action (see my "conflict" about using Epilame on the balance jewels).  3. Lastly, and here I really wonder about yours and others' experiences: I felt that applying Epliame to the train jewels left them looking hazy (borderline dirty) compared to the (painstakingly achieved) sparkly clean results of my cleaning process. I just can't help but think that the Epilame residuals would mix with the oil and cause more friction/wear. I don't know.    simple: it'll stay there. It won't move any further. That's exactly what is happening if you epilame a cap stone. You end up placing the 9010 right on top of the epilame and the oil will sit nicely on that spot.
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