Jump to content

Dial corrosion


p2n

Recommended Posts

The second watch I bough (£4.50) was a 1930's Emus Muller. It didn't run when I got it and now it does - albeit rather slow (-2 hours/day), still that's better than -24 hours/day!

The dial is aluminium and has quite a bit of corrosion on. Is there a way to treat this?

P3210010.thumb.JPG.fde83d2316c7dd785dc6a11464d99e43.JPG

 

Sorry if I'm all questions at the moment - only been doing this three weeks. Hopefully at some point I'll be able to start answering some.

 

P3210009.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It could be that there's another layer above the paint... Some had some sort of a transparent lacquer like paint above the paint and engravings/indexes/markers/etc.

But yeah, I'm not sure if there's anything you can do about it... If you were able to microscopically smooth the edges then it would be less visible but that's kind of hard to achieve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like something is corroding the paint... Short of repainting the dial, i don't see many good options :(

I would try washing it very gently with plain water to remove any possible contaminants, and if the dial survives that, spray a thin layer of lacquer on top to protect/stabilize the remaining paint. No matter what, it will not look new I'm afraid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shame.

I had a minute scrap on the edge to see if it was just a surface depsit, but it's seems to be where the aluminuim cas corroded through the paint layer.

I think you're suggestion of a gentle clean and lacquer are about the only options.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The second watch I bough (£4.50) was a 1930's Emus Muller. It didn't run when I got it and now it does - albeit rather slow (-2 hours/day), still that's better than -24 hours/day!

 

I’ll apologise in advance...

[emoji3]

That statement really piqued my interest. If my maths is right the watch is now right once every six days, instead of twice a day. So it was technically a more accurate timepiece when it wasn’t working at all... I know, I’m a knob, but I find maths interesting!

 

For the dial issue, what the other people said. Redial, brass based, similar style. Good luck and keep asking the questions, most of us learn as much from the questions other people ask as the ones we do ourselves!

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...