Jump to content

Missing tooth - repair?


p2n

Recommended Posts

Thought I was in for a bit of success - broken mainspring. Ordered, arrived and fitted.

Testing the gear train before refitting the balance and it kept skipping.

A closer look and there is a tooth missing on the mainspring barrel

If I solder the gap, then file out a new tooth will that be string enough? I'm assuming that if left it will only get worse with the impulse shocks to the next tooth around?

 

P3210006.thumb.JPG.b4f8cb63d05b428e11a62f141680c3c9.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, p2n said:

Thought I was in for a bit of success - broken mainspring. Ordered, arrived and fitted.

Testing the gear train before refitting the balance and it kept skipping.

A closer look and there is a tooth missing on the mainspring barrel

If I solder the gap, then file out a new tooth will that be string enough? I'm assuming that if left it will only get worse with the impulse shocks to the next tooth around?

 

P3210006.thumb.JPG.b4f8cb63d05b428e11a62f141680c3c9.JPG

On the mainspring barrel i have seen it. Look at this. https://anderstestarblog.wordpress.com/tag/tandinfallning/

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow - thats fine work. I don't think I could do that but I could adapt the idea. If I remove the broken tooth, file and solder in a piece of brass, I could file that into teeth. Assuming I can find a file small enough...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Silver solder would be stronger, but lead solder will do a fine job. First, find a piece of brass suitable for the job. You need to file a slot into the barrel and solder it in. You can use a spirit lamp and some flux. You will need to clean the piece of brass to use, use a emery stick to clean it off. With various needle files, file the brass into the shape of the tooth making sure you have the correct height, thickness and shape. You will need burr files or some people call them rotary files to remove the inside waste so the spring can sit proper. Test it before you put the movement back together, you might have to make slight adjustments. If you have never done this type of work before you might like to practice on a clock wheel, which is bigger to get the idea on what to do, if you make a mistake it does not matter.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • @JohnR725 has pointed out many times that the Swiss don't care about amplitude, the timekeeping is the most important.  Give yourself a  pat on the back, great beat error and timekeeping, nothing to be disappointed about. 
    • I'm bothered but I agree he's a busy man and I don't want to bother him.  In the meantime, we really do need to have other ways of contacting each other  
    • This is as complicated as epilame, too many unknowns. The life expectancy in the UK is circa 80, so most people from 1944 or earlier are dead.  Assume they had children at circa 20, they died in 2004. Their children started selling 1944 watches in 2004, so pre-1944 watches must be getting more rare.   It doesn't work though because as you stated some were sold as tat, but since watch prices have increased people have decided to sell when they may not of done in the past. 
    • I was wondering whether anyone could assist with some questions I have about my latest acquisition, which is a two train ‘Bravingtons Renown’ mantel clock - Pics attached I have done some reading about Bravingtons and believe they sourced movements from various suppliers, so I wondered whether anyone recognises this one. I have stripped and cleaned the movement and the clock is now running well, but there are a couple of dodgy brass springs that I would like to replace. I haven’t found anything suitable searching the internet so I wondered does anyone know of a supplier that might help. Last question is about the veneer on the case, it is generally in reasonable condition but there are a couple of patches on the top where the veneer has lifted. So far, I have tried to reactivate the existing adhesive by heating from below and above with a hair drier, then clamping for a day or two. It has improved slightly but the bulge is still visible. I’d be grateful for any advice if anyone has dealt with this sort of repair before.
    • Hi some pictures o& the movement and case would be appreciated so we can ascertain what the problem is you are having in fitting the movement.   Thank you.
×
×
  • Create New...