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1967 Vietnam Era Military Watch DTU-2A/P


jkjoller

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Hello-

I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?

Also, does anyone know who made these?

IMG_3146.jpg

IMG_3147.jpg

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I have a feeling that the watch might be a front loader. The glass comes out, then either the entire movement and dial or in some cases the hands come out, then the dial and then the movement.

Is the stem still inside ? That might hinder removing the movement.

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I guess this watch is destined for the trash. I can't get the crystal to pop no matter what. I guess I could buy the Bergeon tool but on Esslinger (it cost $175.00). Don't really want to spend that for this one.

FYI, I tried Mark Lovicks recommendation of using a piece of plastic and a syringe. Still wont budge.

 

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

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I just fought a stubborn Timex front loader. Had to use the hot air rework station to heat the case. A hot air gun might work instead. I try to keep the heat in the 150-200C range to be sure the crystal doesn't melt.

You can get useable crystal lift tools without spending a fortune if that is an issue. Electro-vise works nicely (mine has stripped threads though) or for new I just got a cheap one and it works ok but can mark up the crystal. That's fine if you're replacing it.

Don't trash it! Worst case, set it aside for another time and try a different watch.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

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5 hours ago, jkjoller said:

I guess this watch is destined for the trash. I can't get the crystal to pop no matter what. I guess I could buy the Bergeon tool but on Esslinger (it cost $175.00). Don't really want to spend that for this one.

FYI, I tried Mark Lovicks recommendation of using a piece of plastic and a syringe. Still wont budge.

 

If anyone has any ideas, please let me know.

I have used a bicycle pump and the needle from a turkey injector , [used to inject juice into a roasting turkey ] after putting a watch into a zip loc baggie and cutting a small hole at the stem tube to pop out the crystal .

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Hello-
I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?
Also, does anyone know who made these?
IMG_3146.jpg.041010f829aa2fa0d8b49041fe9aaea7.jpg
IMG_3147.jpg.b6df5213e336f894c8e29aa6c505f966.jpg

It’s a BENRUS with a Swiss movement, it’s a front loader you need a crystal lift , it’s a one piece case, google is your friend.

Cheers Kaz


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It’s a BENRUS with a Swiss movement, it’s a front loader you need a crystal lift , it’s a one piece case, google is your friend.

Cheers Kaz


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BENRUS cal. DR2F2 movement


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  • 4 years later...
On 2/19/2018 at 10:07 PM, jkjoller said:

Hello-

I found a Vietnam Era military watch (model DTU-2A/p MIL) dated 1967. It doesn't work and I would like to practice fixing it. But I can't figure out how the back comes off. I think its a snap back and have tried a pry knife and can't get it to budge.
Can anyone help me out?

Also, does anyone know who made these?

IMG_3146.jpg

IMG_3147.jpg

Hi Jk. I dont suppose you still have this watch, preferably in one piece. Thanks

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Just for the record, these are a one piece case, the back does not come off. Split stem, and everything comes out through the front. I have just done one.

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9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

How did you find working on it ?

Pretty straight forward really. It came to me because the customer had had winding issues and the two piece stem had been pulled all the way out, so liberating the movement was just a matter of removing the crystal and it fell out. I don't know if they are all like this but the crown on this one had a very light line etched across it in the same orientation as the connector in the split stem so if the crown is still in situ all you have to do is align the line on the crown vertically and the movement will just fall out, no pulling with pincers to separate the stem.

The movement is an ETA 2372 which is a straight forward manual winder. This one had issues though. It had an incorrect spring for the hack which was what was causing the winding issues, the hack pin which contacts the balance wheel to stop it was bent over flat, I found a paper shim under the train wheel bridge without which the centre wheel bound up tight as a result of zero end shake, and it had the wrong mainspring fitted.

I couldn't get a replacement hack spring so I modified the closest replacement I could find so that it works. Straightening the pin was easy, as was adjusting the center wheel end shake with a jewel press so that I could do away with the shim. After that it was a straight forward service and fit the correct M/S.

It's a really nice watch actually and I wouldn't mind owning one myself.

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19 hours ago, Marc said:

Pretty straight forward really. It came to me because the customer had had winding issues and the two piece stem had been pulled all the way out, so liberating the movement was just a matter of removing the crystal and it fell out. I don't know if they are all like this but the crown on this one had a very light line etched across it in the same orientation as the connector in the split stem so if the crown is still in situ all you have to do is align the line on the crown vertically and the movement will just fall out, no pulling with pincers to separate the stem.

The movement is an ETA 2372 which is a straight forward manual winder. This one had issues though. It had an incorrect spring for the hack which was what was causing the winding issues, the hack pin which contacts the balance wheel to stop it was bent over flat, I found a paper shim under the train wheel bridge without which the centre wheel bound up tight as a result of zero end shake, and it had the wrong mainspring fitted.

I couldn't get a replacement hack spring so I modified the closest replacement I could find so that it works. Straightening the pin was easy, as was adjusting the center wheel end shake with a jewel press so that I could do away with the shim. After that it was a straight forward service and fit the correct M/S.

It's a really nice watch actually and I wouldn't mind owning one myself.

That is really helpful thanks marc. A friend is searching for one, your information now gives me some option on choosing a working or restoration,  i really appreciate that 👍

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