Jump to content

Mainspring sizing variables


Recommended Posts

I'm attempting to do my first repair requiring disassembly. I thought I'd start with a mainspring as a (relatively) straightforward first attempt - on a 1930s Ingersoll 7 jewel watch: I've decided to leave the Patek Chrono until later :)

I'm having a bit of difficulty sourcing a matching replacement.According to my measurements the original measures as follows:

Height 1.7mm. Thickness 0.14. Barrel diameter 11.5. Barrel arbor 3.7. Length (approx) 32cm

The spring has a single hole at the arbor end and a foldback of about 6mm at the periphery.

The nearest I can come up with on the Cousins UK site is the GR4938TR (1.70 x 0.12 x 380 x 11.5TR). Of course whether the broken spring is original is anyone's guess - I can't even identify the movement closer than cal 12 (?) if that's what the 12 on the bottom plate indicates.

Overall, what is the flexibility in sizing for a rough and ready job like this one? It would do my aged confidence no end of good to accomplish this successfully so please forgive the questions that will surely follow...

Thanks, Roy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just found this alternative on obsoletewatchparts site:

1.70 X 0.135 X 340 X 11 swiss  MS3675  4.50

 

Not entirely clear about the fitting (the site says "hook type").

Roy

Edited by skridlov
typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think I should get commission from the author of this page as I've posted links to it about 3 times over the last month... but it really is very good!

http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogmainsprings.php

So you will see that length is probably the least important characteristic (within reason), but thickness is very important. Use the calculator on the above page to infer the thickness and length from the barrel inside diameter. The height should be about 0.2mm less than the space inside the barrel.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, transporter said:

Listen to Stuart Roy he knows his onions, and has just helped me out with the same website link

Onions are not really my speciality, and just to be clear I have no qualifications in horology either.  Like the author of the link I posted, I am an engineer by qualification, and I love his approach to the problem.  Since I was knee high to my grandfather I was taught by him that there was nothing which couldn't be repaired, some things just take a little more learning than others.  I tend to over think and over research every problem I face and so I have read widely around the subject. Like a signature that someone else on here uses, I probably need to spend more time at my bench repairing watches and less time on the internet learning theory.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks folks! I actually found the nawcc page which has the mainspring calculator. I was thrown out a bit when I looked at Cousins' listing where it was a case of deciding which parameter was least important - and assumed that an incorrect value would result in slippage. I know David Boetcher's site which is invaluable in many respects but hadn't stumbled across the link above as his site lacks a search engine.

I'm really interested in this subject and have a vast number of watches here (literally) requiring attention of all kinds. I've had various involvements with many kinds of engineering albeit without any formal training. Most recently in IT, before that in analogue video electronics and before that with mining equipment. I'd be happy to offer an opinion to anyone needing to extract tracked vehicles from severe bogging. I'm well aware that working on watches is a very particular kind of challenge to take up so late in life...

 

bogged-cat.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
    • Has it got a beat adjustment on the platform or is it a fixed hairspring? in short what you are looking at to get it just about in beat is to get the roller jewel sitting dead centre between the banking pins. So remove the platform and take of the pallet fork and escape wheel to give you clear line of site, sit the platform with the balance in place and with it level look between the banking pins and see if the roller jewel is sitting between them, if it is nice and central its there or there abouts in beat, if its not the the position of the pinned end of the hairspring needs to be adjusted to move the roller jewel into the correct position, thats why I asked if it has an adjustment on the platform or not, if it has its an easier job. 
    • I've managed to adjust it. I'm going to try and explain it as well as I can with my limited horology knowledge but I hope it helps someone in the future. There is a cam to the right of the front plate as shown in the picture. As the clock ticks along, the pin indicated in the gear comes around and slots into one of the silencer cam gaps, turning the cam. The pin completes a full rotation in 2 hours. To adjust the cam to start at the right time set the clock to just before 7. I did 6:45. Then I turned the silencer cam anticlockwise, which spins freely, until it pushed the silencer lever up and was placed just before the drop. Just before the 7AM indicated in the picture. All I then had to do was progress the hands to 7-7:15which made the pin slot into the silencer cam gap and turn the cam so the lever comes down again, unsilencing the clock. That was it. If anyone comes across this issue again I'd be happy to assist. Thanks again to everyone that helped. Hey Transporter! Thanks a lot for the reply. That was a really good explanation and I'm sure it would have made my troubleshooting a lot less painful haha. I'm sure someone will find it useful in the future. Thank you again for taking the time to try and help me out with this.
    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile and is supported by the literature:   A review on control of droplet motion based on wettability modulation principles design strategies recent progress and applications.pdf   However the hole point is that we have less mobile oil so an oleophobic  would see to be the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic (beading) and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
×
×
  • Create New...