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  1. Loose fitting bezels and back plates

    In this particular instance I have two steel cases (one Omega and one Longines) that exhibit the problem. Roy
  2. Loose fitting bezels and back plates

    Yes indeed, gaskets are a factor. However I'm looking at a couple of watches where adding a gasket would, I suspect, make the fit even worse as there appears to be no extra clearance available to accommodate one and the pressure required to eject the part is already very slight.
  3. I guess that this is a bit of a dumb question, but that never stops me. I often encounter loose press-fitting case parts. Before I start "experimenting", how do the wise deal with this problem? Roy
  4. There seem to be a lot of the Landeron movements about (scrapped gold cases...) notably the cal 48 derivatives - I've had several recently. I'm surprised that there isn't a Chinese supplier making replacement cases. Anyone know different - in fact is anyone making them? I balk at buying used examples from the USA at extortionate prices made more extortionate by ridiculous postage charges >$40.
  5. Omega cal. 711 SSH (& crystal)

    Indeed they do. In the thousands of times I've used the site I hadn't noticed that. All I can say is "Duh." No mention of the pipe length unfortunately.
  6. I've just been offered a square Omega de Ville lacking a sweep second hand and crystal (not a coincidence I feel). Obviously getting Omega spares quickly - or at all - is a non starter given Swatch's market manipulation. The crystal shouldn't present too much of a problem however the second hand is hard to measure without basic dismantling, which I'd prefer to avoid if possible. Is there a database anywhere that contains Omega sizing information? Alternatively does anyone know the sizes for the second hand? I've done a bit of searching and so far no good. Roy
  7. Hand setting problems

    Thanks for the suggestions one and all. To clear up an ambiguity, it's hunter wristwatches rather than the PWs that are driving me to distraction. The extremely low dome makes the tolerances for hand setting extremely critical (by my criteria at least). Added to the extreme fragility of mineral glass of this thin variety. I broke the last one a week ago and I'm on to a solitary UB example that I have left. Now the bezel has been on and off so many times I'm starting to fear for its fit too. The first hunter I tried to tidy up had me scratching my head until I realised that the hands were rotating in the manner of a fairground ride. Bent pinion; that one's cooling its hands in a drawer. The idea of notching the bore of the hand has occurred to me but I've yet to try it. I have just had a new asymmetrical crystal made for a Tiffany/Buren PW and refitting that minute hand is also now giving me trouble, having just cleaned and re-lumed it. As I mentioned, sometimes it's ever-decreasing but often ever-increasing when it's not just circles. I don't usually give up, I just threaten myself and move on to ****ering up something else... Roy
  8. Hand setting problems

    Thanks for the interesting solutions suggested. I too have tried lacquer in the past. "Glue" is obviously an alarm word where watches are concerned but by waiting for it to dry (24 hours to set completely in the case of hypo cement) its consistency is a bit like rubber. In the case of hunters nothing works. I'm just about to withdraw a listing because nothing I can do will prevent the hands jhamming at some point in the 12 hour cycle. I give up. Anyone want a hunter for scrap?
  9. Hand setting problems

    Most of the minute hands don't have a tube! Obviously glue is undesirable but once set it's pretty much rubber. And I just realised that most foils are far too big however there are a few in every pack that are "blind". Roy
  10. Hand setting problems

    An idea (post staircase) I've immediately had is to glue an under-sized foil to the back of the hand boss... Any endorsements? Roy
  11. Some problems seem to come in clusters. Currently I'm plagued by difficulties with hand setting. I'm mostly handling old and very old watches which may well be a factor. The most common issue is usually that after cleaning and sometimes re-luming hands, particularly minute hands, the hand is too slack a fit. This is even worse when it has been necessary to remove hands several times as a blunderer like myself sometimes has to do as he chases problems round in hopefully ever decreasing circles. I've been working on a couple of hunters recently which bring amplified problems compared to regular open faced watches. Getting all three hands to clear one another is one thing but getting them to do so when the very low profile crystal is fitted is another. A couple of times I've thought "this is impossible" and the amount of time I've spent on it is ridiculous. And of course the constant adjustment rapidly slackens off the fit to the point of non-fit. I suppose the associated question is has anyone thought up a way of slightly decreasing the diameter of pipe-less hand apertures? One thing I've tried which is semi successful (one time only procedure) is to put a tiny drop of hypo glue on the hole from the back of the hand, then let it dry for a good long time, then prod a tiny hole in it followed by fitting the hand (and getting that right first time as you don't get a second chance without repeating the entire process.) This glue has a rubbery consistency when set which means it tends to act like a gasket/washer. What I really need is some anti-broaches... Roy
  12. Less than perfect tools

    I've had a fair amount of success is dismantling, cleaning, re-assembling and lubricating so far (I have only once removed the balance cock and it didn't turn out well.) In most cases I remove the barrel bridge etc and the keyless work (a less archaic term wouldn't hurt, IMHO) and immerse the parts in Elma Pro for a while, and then a 180 sec ultrasonic treatment and a couple of rinses with Iso-P. Luckily I have a lot of stuff to practice on and mostly it's not a disaster if the outcome is negative. Even though I've only once done a full dis-assembly and usually clean the movement with the balance assembly and train in situ (apologies; I can almost hear the groans), I don't recall having any problem directly associated with this approach. But how to lubricate the upper balance pivot? I am starting to realise that you gets wot you pays for - in this discipline as well as every other I've encountered. I'd certainly like some good tweezers! I'm currently working on a hunter and the difficulty of getting the hands set (I re-lumed them) and the crystal fitted without collisions occurring is not to be understated. I broke the incredibly thin V. low dome crystal despite immense care trying to refit the bezel. This is the second time I've had this problem with a hunter. I also regularly encounter problems with the KW (see above). These sub-systems always seem so crudely designed. I have a beautiful Omega 1906/7 half-hunter here that lacks a setting lever and stem. The stem may just exist in the parts skip. It runs like brand new with a sparkling gilt movement (only 15j unfortunately). Anyone here make parts like this? Roy
  13. I know that one should only buy the best. How many amateurs do, at least initially? Here are a couple of beefs about the tools I'm currently using: Movement holders. I had a half-useful plastic job whose metal bolt ran through a hole bearing plastic threads; do I need to say more? The alloy ones I'm currently using have the infuriating habit of suddenly ejecting the movement when pressure is applied to a screw; I've yet to completely destroy a movement on this account but it surely must be only a matter of time. Demagnetiser. I guess like hundreds of people I have one of the "blue boxes" emanating from smoggy Shenzen. Sort of works, some of the time on some watches/movements. But often (very often) no amount of use will eliminate the magnetisation completely. Hand broaching vice. I only obtained one of these this week. A chromed version which costs £10 and is widely available. The first one arrived and was immediately, obviously, entirely useless. The two discs with holes that line up (theoretically) don't line up. By the time you get to the smallest (most useful) sizes the holes are 50% out of congruence and 100% useless. I mailed the supplier - a well known UK company with an interest in poultry - with a snap and a mild complaint. They sent me another one, which had been "checked". It's still useless, only slightly less so. Speaking of "useless", incessant attempts to delete an accidentally uploaded snap have proved fruitless.The forum constantly reverts to the previously inserted text and snaps - even if you leave and return. Ignore that which isn't of the broaching vice. Roy
  14. Missing click spring - but which kind?

    I ordered the RR pack of 100 circular springs. Which, I hope, is the solution. Thanks to everyone who contributed. Roy
  15. Missing click spring - but which kind?

    The clicker is absolutely flat. A real puzzle that. Whilst this string/spring is probably, as noted, too thick, it may be that a thinner version which doesn't exceed the thickness of the unthreaded collar is what's required. I'll have to do some measuring. Or buy a pack of assorted - which I should probably have done some time ago. Roy then I found this...