Jump to content

Cleaning the copper plating on Omega movements


Recommended Posts

I bought an Omega 1022 for parts, and the bridges and plates are discoloured.

From what I've read, the coating is copper, over a beryllium bronze base. 

Apart from ultrasonic cleaning, is there a way to safely clean/polish these parts ?

Acid is usually used to clean copper (vinegar?) but I don't know how thick/robust the plating is.

Any suggestions ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The Jury is out on what Omega actually used to plate their movements one side of the argument says that they used a beryilium copper alloy on the brass plates and the other side says that the movement where plated with pink gold. It is most likley a copper alloy because gold cannot be plated directley on to brass without using a barrier layer of nickel.

There is somone one who sent parts of for analysis to determine exactly what the coating was but a lot of people have argued that these results are not definitive the results can be seen at the below site,

http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/rgold/rgold.html

It does state that the plating is between 1 micron and 5 microns thick so not very thick at all so any polishing would have to be done with none abrasive cleaners or you will soon see the yellow brass showing through.

I know that if you put a copper coin into coca cola over night it will turn it bright and shiny and belive me I am not suggesting you do that for one minute but I have some scrap copper plated  movements I may try it in the next few days and see what happens and post the results.

Personally I would just clean them and live with the tarnish and discolourisation.

Edited by wls1971
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, RyMoeller said:

Interesting read.  Seems pretty definitive to me.  :)

The results state that "This tentative identification would need to be verified by elctron-probe micro analysis" this hasnt been done as far as I know and some have stated that the age of the parts could account for no gold content being found on the movement parts, they all so say why would a watch company plate parts in copper alone when this would tarnish quicker than the brass metal underneath it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 3/28/2017 at 7:31 PM, Geo said:

I can highly recommend this stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLOCK-CLEANING-CONCENTRATE-NO-1-250MLS-/250475705782?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a5183f5b6dilute as recommended and use it in an ultrasonic bath at 50 centigrade.

Here's a couple of watches cleaned with the above.

 

 

The vinegar and cola didn't do much good, but I bought some of the stuff you recommended and I'm impressed how well it cleaned up the plates.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
    • Looks lint the teeth on the hour wheel aren't meshing with the teeth on the calendar intermediate wheel, maybe the hour wheel is sitting on top of this instead of meshing?        
×
×
  • Create New...