Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Malfunctioning Quartz movement - what to do?

I have a cheap quartz watch, which used to work fine, and now suddenly has given up the ghost. Battery and contacts OK.
Can someone tell me how to go about repairing a quartz watch which doesn't move, in a step-by-step way, such as ....
1. Check voltage of battery
2. Check battery contacts
3................................. etc etc

I know that the movements I am talking about are often cheap (ie throw away) but the challenge for a hobby watch fanatic is to repair, and not to replace.
In the present case, it is a SHIOJIRI Y145A movement, which can no longer be bought new.
Posted

If you can't find a replacement i would probably try to service it? Could maybe have some parts for it if you need that? Have some spare parts for Y143A and Y142A if they are similar i haven't checked? 

Check the coil for resistance? Should be around 2 amp. 

Not the cleanest movement but it's working? http://www.millsys-watch.co.uk/shiojiri-ltd-caly145a-moonphase-quartz-movement-running-3392-p.asp

Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, boblalux said:

Do you mean the coil resistance should be 2 OHMS?

Ya. Sorry me and electronics is not a perfect match? I looked at the Y142A i had and there was a lot of plastic wheels in it? Looking a lot like the Y187 and 7T32/34 movements inside? 

There must be a Seiko or a Pulsar movement also? Like Y187 is 7T32? So Y145A is ?? 

Edited by rogart63
  • Like 1
Posted

I think you need to change your search parameters if you wish to purchase the movement which may actually be available. If you look at the 1st link below you find that they may actually have the movement and that there are a variety of name substitutes that go with that movement number. In other words they're all basically OEM versions of Seiko. Then once you grasp what you're looking for there are other companies out there and even look like eBay.

Second link page 11 has your current consumption and coil resistance.

As far as giving you a specific order of the tests it depends on the test equipment you have.

http://stsupplyonline.com/catalog/pulsar-hattori-seiko-movements-c-28_387.html?page=4&sort=4d

https://www.seikoserviceusa.com/img/pdf/battery-no-cross-reference-chart.pdf

 

Posted

I've found the culprit -  torn wire in coil (the actual culprit is me, wielding a pickaxe!).  In the attached photo, you can just see the 2 ends, which I must SOMEHOW re-join.  Any ideas before I start bulldozing my way:  perhaps tying them together with a knot, and burning off the insulating coat?

Coil_1.JPG

Posted

A unfortunate problem with quartz watches for all of us is accidental contact with the coil wires. A much more commonplace is jewelry stores whatever they change batteries they also have a habit of destroying coils. If you work in a watch repair shop you'll see this jewelry store sending a watch in for repair with Damaged coil.

If it's just a scratch they make a conductive paint that supposedly will fix the problem but it's for technical reasons I've never been happy with that. It's best to just replace the coil. Occasionally it's broken were it makes contact with the circuit board and that could be resoldered But at the cost your movement is cheaper just to get another movement.

Posted

Your movement rings a bell with me. I think my father had a lorus quartz watch. Which he lost in a field and was found a year after. It had suffered rain, frost, snow and had been ploughed over by a tractor. The surprise is , it was still working. This movement was in a basic case (No water proofing) it stopped about 3 months after being found. My father has long departed but I still have the watch. Replacement movement. There not really designed for service or repair, well, not like an expensive ETA. Fitting a new movement will probably be a better option for you and save your time for more appropriate projects.80a88d31b3202bf793c109fd0783c7bf.jpg

Sent from my SM-T585 using Tapatalk

Posted
On 27/12/2016 at 1:59 PM, rogart63 said:

If you can't find a replacement i would probably try to service it? Could maybe have some parts for it if you need that? Have some spare parts for Y143A and Y142A if they are similar i haven't checked? 

Check the coil for resistance? Should be around 2 amp. 

Not the cleanest movement but it's working? http://www.millsys-watch.co.uk/shiojiri-ltd-caly145a-moonphase-quartz-movement-running-3392-p.asp

Would be grateful for the coil, which should be 2.2k - 2.8k ohms.  Have you got one?  

Posted
Would be grateful for the coil, which should be 2.2k - 2.8k ohms.  Have you got one?  


No sorry I must of thrown the movement away but I remember I couldn't locate a replacement and ended up fitting a Ronda from another watch. I've had a look but can't find it but if I do I will let you know

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Found some coils :) So if you need some i have? And some other parts. I need the date wheel on the movement but the rest is your is u want it? 

DSC07585.JPG

Edited by rogart63
Posted

Yes, solely the coil would be fine and could be slipped into an envelope.  I'm sure the rest of my movement is OK.

Tell me what IOU.  What can I offer in return?   Hands?  Crowns?

Posted
1 hour ago, boblalux said:

Yes, solely the coil would be fine and could be slipped into an envelope.  I'm sure the rest of my movement is OK.

Tell me what IOU.  What can I offer in return?   Hands?  Crowns?

 

1 hour ago, boblalux said:

Yes, solely the coil would be fine and could be slipped into an envelope.  I'm sure the rest of my movement is OK.

Tell me what IOU.  What can I offer in return?   Hands?  Crowns?

PM :) 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
×
×
  • Create New...