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Hampden 12s #603 "quickie"


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Okay here is my first, (virginal) walkthrough, I got this 17j Hampden for less than $30,  it's not uber rare scarce or anything uncommon, anyway upon arrival, I immediately noticed some rusty hands and lack of winding (AAAARRRGGH), fortunately it was just from cheap crystal, (I think) the seconds hand is almost gone!)

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Next off they came and things still looked pretty good.

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I don't like dust shields and read somewhere they are not recommended/necessary on Hampdens anyway.

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when I got under dial, the cannon pinion and hour wheel were pretty toasty, otherwise it was pretty clean.

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Next, off comes balance assm and out comes pallet bridge and fork. Just in case, I did try to let down mainspring, but that appeared to be part of problem.

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Then comes main barrel bridge, winding wheel, third and fourth wheels and bridge, note steel escape wheel and white/clear jewels on pallet fork.DSCF0388.JPG

Out comes barrel and arborDSCF0389.JPG

And just as suspected, mainspring is a goner! Note the serial number inside barrel, matches the rest of watchDSCF0390.JPG

Dial cleaned up pretty nice, lot's of hairline dirt removed. Still has some nibbles between the 10 and 11, that's what I call character!  

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New spring

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In goes the new spring, I did this by hand, (too cheap to invest in winder!) Just a pinch more to tighten up arbor and greased.

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Patiently awaiting their return after cleaning. The cannon and hour wheel were replaced, I got lots of parts, so no issues there.

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Now with everything tidy, back goes barrel and bridge

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Third and fourth wheel bridge, plus touching up pivots/jewels with oil as we go. This last part can be a bugger if you don't line everything up, I give it a "soft screw", pardon the expression, but I'd rather check everything before it gets tightened, (learned the hard way on that one)

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New Cannon Pinion, hour wheel and  dial washer on and dial ready for replacement. A few more touches of oil on dial side pivots. ( a bit heavy handed on the barrel, did clean that up a bit)

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I picked out new hands, pretty fancy scmancy and had to replace second hand too.

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Now I know I  didn't show all that boring stuff with the keyless works, set springs and winding wheels and mainplate cleaning, but it all had to be done, I just wanted to show how relatively simple these movements and others like them are to work on and hopefully get some others to try their hand. One quick vid,

she's running like a scalded cat!

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2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Nice work. What was the problem with the cannon pinion and hour wheel?

Thanks, there was a touch of rust on main wheel and cannon pinion, was able to get apart and clean up with some gentle persuasion. Once I looked closely at hour wheel it was worn and 'crimped' to that point where there wasn't any free travel between the two. So if I had gotten the hands back on straight, chances are it would have run slowly.

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7 hours ago, WileyDave said:

Thanks, there was a touch of rust on main wheel and cannon pinion, was able to get apart and clean up with some gentle persuasion. Once I looked closely at hour wheel it was worn and 'crimped' to that point where there wasn't any free travel between the two. So if I had gotten the hands back on straight, chances are it would have run slowly.

Lucky for you that you had parts, it could have caused the watch to stop.

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Great walk through and I think you found an amazing watch for the price! 

That is a beautiful movement too BTW.  The form of a high end American made pocket watch is hard to beat.  Look at that dameskeening and perlage.  Beautiful.  :thumbsu:

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    • That's the right technique Mal 👍 If you are ok with a loupe ( which I'm not ) then pick up the dial in your left hand and make a tripod holder out of 3 fingers and then exactly how Mal and me described with your right hand, press and flick out the stem at the same time. You need three fingers to do this, i use my ring ring finger , sounds like mal uses his little finger, just whatever you feel comfortable with. The key point and dangerous side to this is the tweezers or driver slipping off the release screw. Stablise your left arm by resting your elbow on your bench, so that you can hold the movement horizontally flat, use a x5 loupe to view  and good light so you can see well and have a good tight fitting screwdriver to push the release down. Or as suggested a pusher mounted solid upside-down somewhere then all you need to do is push your movement up to it. I'll rig something up in a bit to show you what i mean.
    • Thanks Michael, shes a real soldier, it would take a tank to knock her off her feet.  Shes surprised even me and i knew she was a tough cookie.  Good for you Michael, you keep at it. I've been reading your posts re. your watchroom they're inspiring and it doesn't matter how long it takes you to get there its about the journey. Rome wasn't built in a day, our watchcaves are our solitudes, our own little empires where we can shut ourselves away from the crap that goes on around us in the world. I look forward to seeing you progress, I have my own ideas how i like to do things. But in answer to your questions on that thread, just let your workspace evolve around you and how you work. You wont figure it out straight away but you will know when to change it and when to leave it alone. But most of all just enjoy it.
    • That can be tricky. Sometimes I hold the movement from the edges in left hand and with right hand I push the release with tweezers and simultaneously pull the stem out with right hand pinky or something. 
    • I see what you mean. I must admit I’m not entirely comfortable with that but I can’t see a better method than what you suggest. I’d like to see something like this mirror with a short spike: https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/mirror-for-observing-movements Place it on, push the spike on the post with one hand and release the stem with the other hand. Minor problem, it doesn’t exist.
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