Jump to content

Pocket watch service "Chronometre IAXA"


Recommended Posts

I got this old movement quite cheap over ebay. The stem is broken and needs replacement. The watch is barely running when fully wound. There is a lot friction in the system.

The dial sais "CHRONOMETRE IAXA". There are no markings on the movement besides "Déposé" which seems to mean something like "patent pending". Not sure who made this movement. There are so many movements out on the market that it is very difficult to identify the caliber. It is not important anyway. This is just for practice.

 

IMG_1468.jpg

IMG_1451.jpg

IMG_1452.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next: escape wheel. Here too it proved to be a challenge to mount the escape wheel bridge. I found this to be more difficult compared to fine swiss watch movements, like the ETA 2472 or others I was working on. The bridge is too heavy to allow it to be placed gently. It took several approaches to get this job done.

IMG_1499.jpg

 

Finally got it done including the pallet lever with its bridge.

IMG_1501.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I then finished the dial side.

IMG_1508.jpg

IMG_1510.jpg

 

The movement is running quite well. It develops huge differences depending on the position. But the beat error is below 1ms. Amplitude is well above 220°.

I consider this a success. Too bad the stem is broken (got the movement like this).

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, AlexanderB said:

Next was the barrel bridge. I already mounted the barrel bridge but forgot to put the center wheel in place first. IMG_1491.jpg

 

Those marks on the edge of the barrel are telling me that the arbor is not or was not upright. It can happen by worn out bushings or if the barrel bridge is not placed back correctly. The edge of the barrel was sticking to the bridge cousing winding hard. This also explaining the marks on the crown wheel teeth and the broken stem. 

Excellent pictures and presentation ;)

Edited by szbalogh
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for pointing this out I completely missed that when I first looked at the photos, but once pointed out its very obvious.

Its tips like this on things to look out for that are very helpful for someone like me just starting out.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you @szbalogh! That makes absolutely sense to me. I totally overlooked this important sign. This is why it makes sense to publish this on this forum. It would not have occurred to me. I'll keep that in mind.

I am now finished with it. Here is what the timegrapher told me

BEFORE (Dial down)
Beat error 0.7ms
Angle 135°
+320s/d

AFTER (Dial down)
Beat error 0.5ms
Angle 270°
+100s/d

Here are a few more pictures. Some of them are merely for the sake of taking the pictures. I love crawling inside the movement with my huge DSLR :)

 

IMG_1512.jpg

IMG_1516.jpg

IMG_1517.jpg

IMG_1520.jpg

IMG_1522.jpg

IMG_1524.jpg

IMG_1526.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...