Jump to content

Confusing watch marks

Hullblazer
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hullblazer Watch Enthusiast

Hullblazer

Posted
Posted

Hi all - hope someone can help?

I have picked up a small bag of pocket watches - small ones, case diameter 40mm - assumed ladies or boys?

Anyway, my query.  The hallmarks are confusing and I've little help from my favourite website.

The Maker's mark is W.L (In a rectangle) and this, coupled with the Anchor mark and maker this a "William Lock & Co" watch, dated between 1881 and 1893 ("the mark 'W.L in a rectangle' was registered in October 1881. He changed the sponsor's mark to the W.L & Co initials in July 1893").  The "Lion Passant" is no help, just denoting sterling silver, sometime after 1820.

All straightforward enough.  Now onto the Date Mark: it is a "k" and of a font that means 1865 OR 1925, with neither date fitting when lock used W.L.

What's the date of this watch?

Another question.  I cannot find the mechanism in almighty Google (other search engines are available).  What am I looking at, please?

SAM_0049.JPG

SAM_0050.JPG

SAM_0053.JPG

SAM_0055.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MrBeat WRT Addict

MrBeat

Posted
Posted

I believe though i could be wrong the case maker is either Walter Lunt or Walter Low, the date letter i think is 1833-34.

The movement may have a makers marking under one of those bridges or even the dial side. Ive often not seen the mark until it is disassembled , or it could be unmarked. The old ones are tricky to identify but someone else may know more than i :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Hullblazer Watch Enthusiast

Hullblazer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Don't Worry!  Thanks to my father's "Bradbury's" I can see what I never realised (oops); each assay office could have its own dating marks!  Was effectively using London Marks against Brum dates!

 

Thank you all!  1884 - not bad for the price of a 4-pack!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

The movement is called a 5 bar movement with a cylinder escapement (no pallets) it has back key wind and back hand change. It is more than likely to be from the 1800 hundreds, It's a ladies watch. Some have exceptionally decorated enameled dials.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cad101 Super WRT Addict

Cad101

Posted
Posted

I agree with Geo.

W.L & Co
William Lock & Co,
the mark 'W.L in a rectangle' was registered in October 1881. He changed the sponsor's mark to the W.L & Co initials in July 1893. Director names added at this time were Mr James Golbourne and Henry Loveridge. Latest records are for the early 1920's. Registered as Wholesale Jewellers, address was 176 Hockley Hill, Birmingham.
Birmingham 1900 hallmark

BIRMINGHAM116bis.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Jon
      Breitling Navi Heritage (ETA 2892A2) seconds subdial skippiness...

      By Jon · Posted

      To be honest, they're not a good movement to have in a chronograph for several reasons. The first is the chronograph mechanism is a 'bolt on' module; If you look at the side of the watch case the crown won't be in line with the pushers, therefore only the branded company would have the ability to swap out the module because they aren't designed to be serviced and definitely not by an independent watchmaker. Secondly, the ETA 2892 A2 is a great movement, but when the chrono module is used with it it becomes pants, in my opinion/experience. So, going back to your watch. The problem isn't with the base movement, which is the 2892A2, as there would never be that amount of backlash/flutter in the gear train of that particular movement, it is with the chrono bolt on module that the problem lies and when the chrono sweep second hand is engaged the flutter of the second hand is remedied by the stability of the chronograph mechanism negating that flutter. Everything in the chronograph mechanism of that movement is powered by a wheel in the centre where the cannon pinion/driving wheel would normally be. I think it is a crappy design deliberately engineered to be disposable due to the time taken to service the module. Give me a 7750 any day!
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Citizen Technical Info

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Yeah not much going on in the town , Scarborough is a bit better,but the missus and me love York. Good antique shops there, The antiques center on stonegate has a good selection of vintage watches, top price though.
    • oldhippy
      Good evening and hello there.

      By oldhippy · Posted

      Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. 
    • Chief
      Citizen Technical Info

      By Chief · Posted

      Brid isn't what it used to be, I only really go to Morrisons in brid. I avoid the town. But Scarborough is nice! I don't mind a wander round the beach between jobs
    • Simeon
      Orient Automatic Crystal and Bezel

      By Simeon · Posted

      I have had a few issues with my Orient Automatic crystal and bezel. The bezel came off with a case knife and I haven't been able to refit it. Doing a bit of research on here, I think that it is an arrangement where the crystal is snapped over a lip on the caseback and then the bezel is installed over the top like a tension ring. I have managed to crack the crystal trying various attempts to press it onto the case. Measuring the crystal with Vernier calipers, I think it is a Sternkreuz XS 314.171 but I can't correspond that to the reference/ case number on the caseback. I also measured the outer diameter of the lip on the case that it may fit over and this is 30.5mm, which is actually 0.7mm bigger than the static inner diameter. Is it likely that the crystal can be expanded enough to snap over that? The inner diameter of the bezel/ tension ring is 32.2mm which works with 31.4+0.7 = 32.1mm Does this sound correct? What method should I use to snap the crystal and then bezel into place? I have a cheap case back press with nylon dies but I managed to break the old one with this method.       
×
×
  • Create New...