Jump to content

Timing Adjustment Problem

Scouseget
 Share

Recommended Posts

digginstony Super WRT Addict

digginstony

Posted
Posted
If the lift angle is not set correctly on the timegrapher the only difference is a very minor inaccuracy in calculating amplitude. Nothing else is affected.

No I couldn't really agree with your statement. The lift angle setting not only affects the reading of amplitude but it also effects the reading of beat error. Though I appreciate that most modern movements lift angle is between 48 and 54. So a fairly accurate measurement can be taken at 52° but it's far more desirable to have the specific information as to the correct lift angle setting when regulating a movement

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
Just now, digginstony said:

No I couldn't really agree with your statement. The lift angle setting not only affects the reading of amplitude but it also effects the reading of beat error.

No, lift angle set on the timegrapher does not affect beat error reading at all. One can test that easily by varying the angle and observing. See pictures for the two extreme values of range available on my machine. Only amplitude reading is marginally affected.

 

P7143083.JPG

P7143084.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
digginstony Super WRT Addict

digginstony

Posted
Posted
No, lift angle set on the timegrapher does not affect beat error reading at all. One can test that easily by varying the angle and observing. See pictures for the two extreme values of range available on my machine. Only amplitude reading is marginally affected.

 

P7143083.JPG

P7143084.JPG

Looking at your readings I would have to agree with you . There's noticeably no difference.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
digginstony Super WRT Addict

digginstony

Posted
Posted
I don't even turn it off mate. Mrs jdm does, however [emoji3]

Because I believed i could get a false reading of beat error if the lift angle wasn't set right I spent many hours regulating this Waltham pocket watch. I've just put it on the timegrapher. See pics. It's not perfect but you've just made my life a lot easier in the future. Many thanks482ea9fcab0efe841d8b7474045bfc50.jpgd4d734eff6fcfed9695424ce353cfe02.jpg

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
syfre WRT Addict

syfre

Posted
Posted
On 12/07/2016 at 10:21 PM, Scouseget said:

Also, I did get it to work for a while quite accurately dial up, but the moment I moved it away from the DU position, it would noticeably slow down or stop; I verified that the hairspring was not catching on anything when this happened. Not sure what that means exactly but I did check the balance jewel holes and noticed the slop that I mentioned above, hence the reason I bought a third Waltham to allow me to change out the jewels. 

 

Assuming the staff is not broken and that the hairspring don't touch anything, check that you don't have a cracked jewel. Don't see exactly what you mean by a "fair amount of slop" but balance jewels are convex type jewels (with olive hole), see here

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/jewels-seitz

But, this not explains why your regulator has no effect.

If you swap the hairspring there is a fair amount of chance that it's not matching the balance and becomes impossible to regulate. In this case you need to adjust the balance weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi matey

I think you need to get yourself a timeographer for a start I believe your watch is an 1899 model the same as my too.

WP_20160617_06_09_20_Pro.jpg

this was the reading before service

 

 

and this is after service with a new mainspring

 

 

 

I recently went on a two week cruise and had the watch on all the time, and it kept absolutely perfect time I think this is the sort of readings you need to be looking for but you do need a timeographer, i have just stripped another last night and this is what it looked like before.

i will let you know how i get on, just my two pennies worth I hope this helps.

Kaz

 

 

WP_20160612_22_09_05_Pro.jpg

Edited by BUSAKAZ
wrong pics
Link to comment
Share on other sites
BUSAKAZ WRT Addict

BUSAKAZ

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, BUSAKAZ said:

hi matey

I think you need to get yourself a timeographer for a start I believe your watch is an 1899 model the same as my too.

WP_20160617_06_09_20_Pro.jpg

this was the reading before service

 

 

and this is after service with a new mainspring

 

 

 

I recently went on a two week cruise and had the watch on all the time, and it kept absolutely perfect time I think this is the sort of readings you need to be looking for but you do need a timeographer, i have just stripped another last night and this is what it looked like before.

i will let you know how i get on, just my two pennies worth I hope this helps.

Kaz

 

 

WP_20160612_22_09_05_Pro.jpg

sorry the two pics didn't turn out but hopefully here they are.

WP_20160613_16_50_06_Pro.jpgWP_20160613_16_52_16_Pro.jpgWP_20160728_15_45_28_Pro.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • aac58
      Rare Seiko 5actus Watch??!! With a lot🤪🤔😲

      By aac58 · Posted

      This is not rare at all, the dial code and case code don't usually match.
    • Kkramme
      Coil for old Seiko Credor -- 4002920

      By Kkramme · Posted

      Good question!! Anyone know of a substitute movement??!! 🤔🙏
    • Kkramme
      Rare Seiko 5actus Watch??!! With a lot🤪🤔😲

      By Kkramme · Posted

      Interesting issue that I just noticed: this Seiko 5actus Watch from 1977 has a calibre listing on the dial of 7019-8030R but on the case back it says 7019-8010!! Like a mis-printed coin, is this watch therefore worth a lot of money for its rarity?? 🤪😲🤔🤪
    • Mercurial
      Smit

      By Mercurial · Posted

      I wish that was the case. The Aegler movements used in the early days by Wilsdorf & Davis (for brands like Rolex and Rolco) came in several sizes and without designated calibre numbers that survive.  They become a bit easier to identify during the 1920s. Below is an Aegler-Rebberg, 25.74mm in diameter. It’s from a woman’s Rolex wristwatch. Stamped Rebberg and 500 on the dial plate (but it isn’t a Rebberg 500, it’s the wrong size).  I’d be interested if anyone can identify the movement.  It is based off the Aegler Nr.1, circa 1903, but they based many many calibres of different sizes on it. The closest I have to a positive ID is the  ‘Rolex Nr.50’ circa 1917, but no dial side images or movement sizes are available in the references. There are identical looking movements in many sizes.  The 25.74mm of this movement is a particularly strange size for the era, it equates to 11.41 lignes.      Best Regards, Mark
    • GuyMontag
      FHF70 balance jewels settings

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      It looks like this movement comes with a number of different shock settings. Emmywatch shows that it comes in versions with no shock settings, 'Incabloc', 'shock resist', and 'Supershock'. Perhaps the different settings position the impulse jewel/roller table in a non-ideal position relative to the pallet fork/guard pin. Are you able to check under high magnification if the pallet fork and roller table are able to operate without any interference? Just for fun I took a look and I have one FHF 70 in my collection, a West End Secundus with a non-shock protected FHF70. I had a note with the watch that said, "Movement is stamped 'FHF 70', but the FHF70 looks to have sub-seconds instead of center seconds movement (??)" but that a google search turned up both types for this movement. EDIT: I just took a look in my parts drawer and I have a few of these movements, both in center seconds and sweep seconds, but they all are non-shock protected.  
×
×
  • Create New...