Jump to content

Glass question

Danh

By Danh
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Danh WRT Addict

Danh

Posted
Posted

I will try and make this brief.

someone in my town posted on Facebook that they were selling their dads watch making equipment. I jumped on it to have a look. Turned out their Dad has passed on and they are selling everything for a child's hospice in Scotland.

there was a load of stuff, I was in heaven. I bought what I could afford and advised a bit on some of the more expensive stuff.

some of my purchases included glass / crystal removal and replacement equipment.

my M Lacroix needs a new glass as it is looking imperfect around the edges (it is 20 years old)

i am not sure wether to lift it out or press it out. To be honest I do not know what the glass is made of.

would anyone be kind enough to give an opinion please, it would be most appreciated .

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Reveil

it also begs the question about whether a glass would be obtainable from the likes of cousins also?

 

image.jpeg

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

If you have one of these you can remove the glass. I expect as its domed it is plastic or a type of, I wouldn't think its glass. In my days there were two types of domed low and high. There is a link somewhere with video on this forum that I put up from youtube showing you how to measure for a new glass. If you don't have a tool for removing take the movement out and just push it. But you will need this to put it back or at least watch glass fitting and removal tools.

s-l225.jpg

Danh WRT Addict

Danh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That's brilliant thanks, that is one of the pieces of equipment I purchased, the other piece was a press

most appreciated 

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Some times with the tool that is pictured low dome glasses can be a bit hard to pick up. The tool I had was like in the picture an expensive type not one of these cheep Chinese things you can pick up for £10 on ebay

StuartBaker104 Distinguished Member

StuartBaker104

Posted
Posted

I would always take the movement out if changing the glass.  Gives a chance to give the case a good clean with soapy water and a toothbrush.

This one looks like it might be a sapphire crystal with a ring seal. With the movement out a plastic glass will normally push out with thumb pressure. Omega has a video on their website showing a sapphire crystal being removed with a hammer :startle:

S

  • Like 1
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted
21 minutes ago, StuartBaker104 said:

This one looks like it might be a sapphire crystal with a ring seal. 

Given that the crystal has nibbles at the edge, I agree with you Stuart.

A press and dies will be the order of the day for fitting a new crystal.

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Geo said:

So will the cheap Chinese one. ;)

I wouldn't know. I've heard about these cheep Chinese tools and never had any I could only comment on the type that I had and used. I also asked what type of glass it was as I couldn't tell from that photo.

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • TimeWerks
      Omega sweep second pinion friction spring - correct tension IS important

      By TimeWerks · Posted

      Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • caseback
      Clock newbie

      By caseback · Posted

      After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • JohnR725
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • VWatchie
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • JohnR725
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...