Jump to content

Case back opener for Polerouter Jet


gchavez1

Recommended Posts

Re-posting on correct forum. Need help finding a case back opener for this Polerouter jet I recently acquired. Don't want to scratch it up, so I'm hoping to have better luck here. I tried looking at vintage openers on eBay but no luck

image.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you have any epoxy putty you could make your own. Put some cling film over the back mix up some putty spread it out over back to make the shape pull out crown first you'll have more space don't do too far down the side of watch case press something into putty on top to form a lever. leave it to dry and you now have a custom case back opener. Or have you tried a soft rubber ball that works sometimes or something as simple as blutac gives you enough grip.

Mick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh yes, I see the "  flats "  now.  there  were,  watchmaker (stamped out box wrenches).  I opened a Movado  with a similar flat arangment.  used the tips of a 10 inch cresent wrench.   you should buy one the many case openers that can deal with the flats.         vinn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wad up a small ball of duct tape sticky side out. Many use this method to open any screw case back. Some material houses now sell a semi-soft rubber ball to open screw case backs but I've found the rubber balls hard to use to break that initial seal. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a polerouter jet and use a Chinese adjustable wrench like this...

http://www.tickintimeworldofwatchtools.co.uk/watch-case-back-opening-and-closing-tool-12-keys-for-waterproof--watches-191-p.asp

Can't remember where I bought mine but wasn't that site. Take care to make sure the wrench is secure, and apply masking tape to the case back to protect against scratching.

I have really struggled to get much by way of useful servicing info on these, but there is a fuzzy oiling chart on polerouter.de, and Cousins has a parts list. Feel free to post some dial and movement shots.

If you remove the movement from the case, make really sure it is replaced snugly to prevent the auto winding rotor from touching the case back.

S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Usually the coiled spring contacts the piezo sounder and the finger spring is the ground.
    • So I checked with my friendly local lab supplier and they can supply the following in 2.5 lt bottles: Tetrachloroethylene (B-Dip) - approx £65 Trichloroethylene (one-dip) - approx £43 n-Heptane 99% (Essence of Renata) - approx £35 Hexane - approx £45 I can't import or buy locally the 'real' products, hence the raw chemicals above. What do you think would be my best option? I'm edging towards Trichloroethylene - I know there are greater health risks, but given the very small quantities used for each treatment and 99.99% of the time it will be sealed in a jar, I think any risk is vanishingly small? This is mainly due to its assumed superior cleaning properties, or from the experience of this group, is the extra cleaning noticeable compared to its safer alternatives?
    • Unfortunately after much investigation, apparently the coil has been discontinued! Shall I get my service guy to try the solder or the conductive paint? 🎨 Final recommendation please🙏
    • Here are the pics of the bridge. Looks correct, but as soon as I screw on the rotor, the watch stops. Video here: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArG5E62RGctxjokY5ws85BzuJLVakA   Pics. Might have figured it out. I have been working on this watch for a while and since I got it as a non runner in a terrible shape, there was no guarantee that parts were proper. I think the main screw that was used on the rotor was too long, so it was stopping the main train. As soon as I fished out a much shorter and larger headed screw, things were good again. Please celebrate with me.  
    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
×
×
  • Create New...