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Posted

Hi all, many thanks for allowing me to join this forum. I have learned much from Mark's vids on repair and have applied techniques to my own repairs. I have been avidly/(rabidly) collecting for the past seven years, started with pocketwatches and has advanced to anything auto. I do quartz repairs, movement replacement for family and friends, (for much too cheap!). Anyway, having located a few qualified reasonably priced service repair persons for my personal collection, these are for now out of my level of skill, (my father always said 'don't muck with stuff you know nothing about') sound words, especially when it come to more complicated watches. I look forward to corresponding and sharing some of my adventures. Right now working on AS 1916  17j auto which came with a "Crawford" dial, but Mido marked winding rotor. You never know what your going to find, until you look inside. CHEERS!

Dave

Posted

Welcome Dave to this very friendly forum. After nearly 30 years as a watch/clockmaker,I'm retired now have beed for some years there is always something new, you never stop learning you just keep gaining knowledge.

Posted

Thanks for the warm welcome, I was mistaken about my current project, the AS 1916 cal was in a Croton 17j auto, which came in an auction lot I won last week, it appears to be virgin,(no case scratchings on inside), upon examination, turned out really decent, removed mvt from case, cleaned and polished, set about trying to find  any trouble, but nothing worth mentioning. I did recall having difficulty with stem detent screw, then I watched one of Mark's vids warning against unscrewing too far, sadly too late, but on the upside, I was able to hold detent with fine tweezer while tightening from below, really  a "three handed" job, but it tightened  back up and it's running fine, and looking well.

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    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
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    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
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