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Posted (edited)

Hi all.

Bought a Seiko 5m42-0e30 (SS bezel with black base metal case.

Its the screw off bezel type that is a front loader.

I had every intention of fixing/replacing the movement, refinishing the bezel and changing all the gaskets then give it to my brother BUT on undoing an odd philips screw (others are slotted) to remove the bezel, I noticed its hole is blocked by rust or the rusty remnants of the old screw.

It was a cheap watch from Ramon so only around £12 but the hands and dial are perfect (brother likes the darker dials) and the bezel just needs a polish and refinish. The movement should be an easy fix.

2015-12-30%2023.30.41.png

I've read all about Alum on here but what can be done on a base metal case?

The screw holes all go straight through and exit under the hidden lugs.

20160108_204029_1.jpg

Any help greatly appreciated.

Edited by ro63rto
Posted

Hi ro63rto,

 

try this first:

 

fb2213.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

 

PS. I got it from ofrei but I'm sure there might be a source close to you.

Posted

if it were mine and i really wanted to get it going, i would drill out the holes and re-tap. those small sizes are available. but to use new fasteners, i would look for SS hex head screws. i don't know where you are located, but fastenal in the states has just about every size and variety of fasteners you can think of.

yeah - alum is out if it's a base metal case.

i'm wondering if the top bezel is threaded - or are the threads only in the bezel and the screws pass through the bezel?

Posted

I would definitely drill them out from the backside. A small drill and then bigger until the heads fall of . So to save the front . First i would clean them and try heat though? 

Posted

Sorry for late reply guys. Went to see Star Wars with my brother.

The hole that's rusted up is only 'blocked' half way down by what looks to be either just rust from the case or a very tiny portion of the old screw.

If Ramon had described it as such I might not have gone for it but the grey one he had instead. Live and learn.

I'll try and find a very thin drill tip and manually turn it. Might just fall out.

Seems mad that Seiko used base metal as the holes are open at the rear as can be seen in the second pic. Unless this was a mod somebody did??

Posted

Hi ro63rto,

 

I wasn't kidding with the previous post! That liquid, whatever it is, works good on rusted and bound threads. Just put some drops on both sides of the thread or screw -- in this case -- and let aside for a few minutes. I had a case back that wouldn't budge even with superglue and this thing worked through it with no problem. I think it is worth it and it is inexpensive. Maybe cousinsUK has an equivalent.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

That screw loosening liquid works!  I had to get a screw out of a Lockwood (local brand) deadlock which retained the lock barrel (which had become lose over the years).  It had rusted solid and I could not replace the lock without removing the door jamb receiver.  To do that what have ruined the door jamb and I would have copped hell from the missus!  So I bought this stuff (on a friend's recommendation) from, of all places, an optical supply shop.

 

Anyway...I placed a drop of the fluid on the rusted screw and left it for about quarter of an hour.  Came back and...gently, gently the screw came out without breaking.

 

It really works Roberto...try it.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks guys but my problem is the head is no longer there. Just the bottom half so I think the only way is to drill the remainder out the tap.

I now have a 1mm tap.

Posted

Not screwdrivers ro63rto, screw extractors, the tip is different and it grabs what is left of the screw and then you can turn as a screwdriver. I couldn't find the right picture but the tips are something like this:

 

post-253-0-22050700-1453308941_thumb.jpg

 

My set also includes Philips screwdrivers...maybe that was the confusion.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

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