Jump to content

Home Built Watches, Show Us Yours.

Rolo
 Share

Recommended Posts

madchops67 Watch Enthusiast

madchops67

Posted
Posted

How about a forum challenge ? We set a budget (a realistic one so everyone can afford to participate) and a list of criteria / spec (Chinese parts, Swiss etc) and maybe even specify a style (pilot, dress, etc) and then see what everyone comes up with?

I think it will be great to see everyone's interpretations and you can do as much or as little of the build as you want so it will be open to all skill levels - you could just buy a movement, case, dials, etc and then fit them or you could (budget permitting) build / modify a movement.

We can make this run over a couple of months to help spread the cost and also to allow people like me who work away from home for an extended period of time to still participate.

Anyone up for it?

I have just started doing my research on casing some American 12s, 16s, 18s pocket watch movements into wristwatches...but it's gonna take some time.post-691-14526625125449.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockwatcher WRT Addict

clockwatcher

Posted
Posted

I have just started doing my research on casing some American 12s, 16s, 18s pocket watch movements into wristwatches...but it's gonna take some time.attachicon.gif20160112_211537-1.jpg

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

I look forward to seeing your results as I have a Waltham 'Seaside' grade movement with winder at 3 o'clock. The database describes it as a 6s, which translates to 35 mm (by 7 mm), from 1899. This seems like a perfect candidate for casing up as a wristwatch. It has a good enamel dial with fine Roman numerals and a sub-second dial and they made nearly 1.5 million of 'em, so spares shouldn't present any problems. Any thoughts on sourcing a case anyone?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
ramrod Super WRT Addict

ramrod

Posted
Posted (edited)

what case are you looking for? anything that will hold your movement? you are very close to what would be a nice dress watch with the size of your waltham. 

 

what i would do is look in some of the specification literature for a popular movement that is the same size as yours and than see what case is available. in other words, say that (hypothetically) an ETA 6497 was that same size as yours. you can find plenty of cases on fleabay that house an ETA 6497. that might be a good starting place.

Edited by ramrod
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockwatcher WRT Addict

clockwatcher

Posted
Posted

what case are you looking for? anything that will hold your movement? you are very close to what would be a nice dress watch with the size of your waltham. 

 

 

Certainly a dress watch, maybe with an exhibition back to show off the Waltham's decoration. Having said that, I don't know if anyone's ever come across a diver with Roman numerals and blued hands but it might be a fun project!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
madchops67 Watch Enthusiast

madchops67

Posted
Posted

I look forward to seeing your results as I have a Waltham 'Seaside' grade movement with winder at 3 o'clock. The database describes it as a 6s, which translates to 35 mm (by 7 mm), from 1899. This seems like a perfect candidate for casing up as a wristwatch. It has a good enamel dial with fine Roman numerals and a sub-second dial and they made nearly 1.5 million of 'em, so spares shouldn't present any problems. Any thoughts on sourcing a case anyone?

That 6s is a perfect size for a dress watch. I have a Illonois 4s that would also be a good candidate...the dial is 33mm and the movement if I'm not mistaken is 31mm. I will definitely have to some how find a case or have one made specifically for it being it is lever set.

Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I did try that last time Rich , i traced the image from the Bestfit book which is the actual size. But its more difficut to cut the shape from paper than it is to grind the steel to shape. This way is pretty easy and the final shaping is done when fitting the part. There are a couple of things i will do differently next time, clamping the 2 pieces together with a drill press will help to hold while scribing the shape in. This was a bit tricky having only one hole, if using the pins and cork the drill size needs to match the pin diameter so there is no movement at all from the template. This movement hasn't finished frying me yet, damaged thread in the plate crown wheel hole and two rubbed in cracked jewels, thats gonna be much more fun.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      A big thank you.

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      👍 Whats not to follow OH ?  You're every inch a pro and a true gent, i always enjoy reading your answers even some of the clock stuff that i dont have a clue about. 
    • RichardHarris123
      Part swapper to part maker

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Could you print the image either enlarged or reduced to the same size as the actual part and then glue it to the steel. 
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Next is to drill the screwhole this then provides an anchor point so the bridge doesnt slip around while scribing the shape. A cork lid, a pin and a piece of gaffer tape ( 😅 ) keeps it all in place. The hole is measured from the broken part using a hand measuring gauge. Mark the hole, punch it and drill it off to size. The awkward bit is working out where the jumper should be and the detent positions.  I remember watching a youtuber a while back do this with dividers, so i dug out my old school compasses and improvised a little. This bridge only has one hole and to find the detent positions you need two points of reference, so i just worked the second point from one of the corners, hopefully its near enough. Then scribe in the jumper using the two detent positions ( wind and time set ) that were marked and a big picture of the complete spring to look at that helps to give you a feel of where the jumper should be.   
    • ManSkirtBrew
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
×
×
  • Create New...