Hello. Dear watchmakers.
I have a very old timepiece from Rolex that I am about to work on..
From googling, I found out that this is called "trench watch" that might had been used during WWI or any other war in that era ( 1910~1920)
However, I could not figure out the reference no. of the movement. All I know about the movement is that it is 29mm in diameter and has 15 jewels.
I am actually looking for a replacement movement for this watch since the mainspring must be replaced due to damage.
Plus, I am also looking for the rachet wheel with "Rolex" engraved to replace the existing one.
I have found similar movements on the web(the third photo added) but click part was not the same.
I wonder if the one with different type of click would have parts that are replaceable.
To sum up, my questions are
1) the reference of the movement.
2) how I can get parts or the whole movement for replacement
3) does a movement with different click type would be suitable for replacement.
Thanks and I wish you a great day.
Why my rolex precision 6466 stops when crown screw down..
But it runs again when crown not screw down or in manual wind position?
It stops when the crown enter too deep inside the movement..
Quite some time ago (a good few years) I was wearing my Rolex datejust 1601 in London in heavy rain and high humidity (obviously a British summer). Anyway I noticed that quite a lot of condensation appeared in my watch. I know I know I should have taken it to an horologist straight away but alas. Anyway I pulled out the crown hoping it would allow the moisture to escape. This seems to have worked however the dial is now covered in watermarks which I can only assume are calcium deposits.
I have seen a thread on the forums where someone removed a small watermark gently using purified distilled water. As you can see in the photo these marks cover the whole of the sunburst dial. Do you think this might be the best way? Or perhaps an incredibly gentle solvent? Naturally I want to be incredibly gentle, especially as I would have to go over the printed text and around the tritium.
I have opened the watch up and taken a very tiny look at the movement and all seems fine - runs accurate and no sign of rust or displaced oils however do you think it's best just to send it in for a service and hope the watchmaker can fix the dial?
Hold me and tell me everything will be okay.
I would imagine decreased amplitude if applied to fourth or escape wheel, but i noticed hardly any difference with the 3rd wheel in most cases so i think thick oil would be the proper lubrication here in most cases. My question is why would Seiko make the distinction between capped and uncapped jewels? Why on the same wheel apply thick oil on the uncapped end and thin oil on the capped end? Is there some rule against applying thick oil to capped jewels that I haven't heard about?
Just noticed that Mark Lovick uses thin oil (Moebius 9010) for the 3rd wheel in his ETA 2824-2 service video (@8:58). This goes against the recommendation of the ETA technical sheet for the 2824-2, but I believe he does so for a reason. If you read this Mark your comment would be appreciated!
While on the topic; what would the effect of using a thick oil be when applied to a pivot where we'd usually apply a thin oil, such as the escape wheel?
Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely.
I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc.
I'm not sure how up to date that guide is. Pretty much every service manual I come across lubes 4th and escape with thin oil but 3rd with thick oil. Even Seiko agrees, showing thick oil being applied to the uncapped side of the 3rd wheel.