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Grease Reccomendation

omgiv

By omgiv
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

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omgiv WRT Addict

omgiv

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Hi Guys,

 

This is my first post but I have been following Mark's videos and this forum for a few weeks.  This is a great place and an excellent resource for anyone looking for advice.  I have been a hobbyist for quite a while but am always looking to learn something new and increase my skill set.

 

I am writing because I would like to know the blue grease Mark uses on the keyless works.  I figure that it must be jismaa or 9501.  I am truly looking for a substitute for Rolex's MR4 grease.  I was thinking of using jismaa but noticed there are two kinds.  One with a blue label meant for carbon alloys and a green label for copper alloys (even though both greases are blue).  If jismaa is the grease of choice, should the blue label be used in the keyless or is there really a difference?  Thanks in advance for the advice and help!

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omgiv WRT Addict

omgiv

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Thank you gentlemen!  Thanks for the quick clarification Mark.  Is there a reason that you prefer 9501 over other greases (such as jismaa, kt22, moly, etc)?  Would you think that 9501 would be a suitable substitute for MR4?  Thanks again for the warm welcome and help.

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Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

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I used 9501 for several years now and am very happy with the results. It tends to stay where you put it and it is very good with high friction parts. I tend to stick with what works well ;)

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Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

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As a retired engineer and amateur horologist I try to keep costs down wherever possible, but not at detriment to the job in hand.

Regarding watch lubrication, I have been using Mobeous 9010 and 941 as recommended by Mark for the fast moving components. When it comes to grease, I just could not bring myself to spending £40 for 10ml of 9501. After giving it much thought and reading up about the qualities of different types of grease, I ended up purchasing Schumacher Moly Grease. This is used in a model race cars and is of a very highly quality. The consistency is very similar to 9501 and is very easy to apply using a oil dipper.

This has worked very well for me for the last two years without any problems.

You can buy it here:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schumacher-Moly-Grease-Pot-U1957-/131075733143?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1e84b8f697

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Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

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Not sure wether the Moly Schumacher is the same stuff but Molykote DX is the recommeded grease on most Omega/ETA data sheets.

 

And this stuff would last 100 watchmakers a 100 years lol

 

http://www.silmid.com/products/molykote-dx-paste-1kg-tin.aspx

 

Ok so they do have a smaller offering ;)

 

http://www.silmid.com/products/molykote-dx-paste-50gm-tube.aspx

 

And an even smaller offering :D

 

http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B00CAD6AAE

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omgiv WRT Addict

omgiv

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Thanks again gentlemen. I usually follow manufacturer's recommendations when it comes to lubrication but you can only get your hands on MR4 if you have a Rolex account (which I don't). I have been using PML grease for years but have never been truly happy with it. It tends to be a little runnier than I want. I suppose that Swatch Group tech sheets now recommend 9501 over Jismaa since Moebius is in house. That only makes since to me.

I did a little experiment yesterday by placing a drop on 9501 and Jismaa 124 of a clean sheet of glass. The spread was about the same over an hour between the two but the 9501 did seem a little thicker to my eye.

I am currently working on a 3135 movement and was looking for a good grease for the keyless area in place of MR4. The mainplate is already starting to shows signs of wear on the intermediate setting wheel post and I want to make I do all I can to slow that process. I used 9501 as Mark recommended and it seemed to do the trick. Thanks again!

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Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

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I will do my best ;)

 

Actually I have just filmed the disassembly and realised it was not recording during disassembly of the auto mechanism and removing the mainspring. So annoying!! I will record the re-assembly though and the auto work is assembled in the reverse order of removal anyway lol. Mainsprings I have covered so many times previously so I am sure I will be forgiven by the trolls :D

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omgiv WRT Addict

omgiv

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That stinks about the camera not recording.  I have seem that blog post previously but it is always good to read it again.  His blog, in general, is a good read.  He has quite an attitude but I find it humorous.

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omgiv WRT Addict

omgiv

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I am no expert when it comes to these things :). What type of mainsprings are we talking about. For automatics, I used to use 8301 or 8201 (can't remember right now) on the inner barrel wall and 8200 on the inner coils. I recently changed to Klüber P125 for the wall and have been very pleased with the results. It can still be quite messy but not so much as the 8301 or 8201. I still prefer 8200 in the inner coils though.

I have never tried KT22 in a barrel but most descriptions depict it as more for winding gears. I also wouldn't think that 9501 would be a good grease for mainsprings.

For manual mainsprings, I only use 8200 inside of the barrel.

Maybe someone else will chime in with other recommendations or advice. Thanks!

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Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

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+1 8200 for the mainspring ( a fine film smeared along the length) plus the breaking grease (can't remember the product code - dark greenish colour) for the barrel wall of automatics.

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