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omgiv

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Everything posted by omgiv

  1. Thought I would just give you guys and update and thank you for the help. I was able to find a new stem and the new stem does indeed work. The only problem was the threads were larger than the crown I had. My gauge stops at 1.20mm so I am guessing the stem was 1.40mm. The crown I have accepted 1.20mm stems. I cut down the stem on my lathe and rethreaded it. Thank you again for all of the help!!!!
  2. Thanks guys for the help. I am not overly familiar with this movement and finding genuine parts is rather difficult. I did a comparison shot of the stem I have to the one oldhippy posted and it does indeed look different. I will try to see if I can find a reliable genuine stem before doing anything drastic. Thanks for the advice!
  3. Hi Guys, It has been a while since I have been able to post. I currently have an Angelus 240 movement on my bench. I have managed to fix a few of the issues with it but it still suffers from a keyless works issue. I believe that the pilot hole where the stem enters the mainplate has become worn, as is the hole for the hub of the stem. The pilot hole itself doesn't look enlarged. Just worn from the end of the square turning against the plate. The hole for the hub has worn so much that the set lever doesn't hold the stem when it is pulled to set the time. I was wondering what the best route would be to fix the movement. I have attached a couple of pictures and will try to upload a video showing the play in the mainplate. Thanks in advance for any advice and help!!!
  4. I do have the crystal lift tool and Chinese tool posted. The Chinese tool is perfect for closing casebacks but I don't trust it for crystals.
  5. Thank you gentlemen. I appreciate the replies. I have had to make my own dies out of delrin before when so haven't been able to find one that would work for my need. I guess I am looking for a quality tool that would offer good options and last. Thanks!
  6. That is certainly an option. The BB crystal press dies are all friction fit and I am not sure if the other dies (Bergeon, Horotec, etc) fit that diameter. I also am looking to upgrade because the press isn't dead on accurate when closing. I don't know if it is due to its age or if it was abused at some point. It isn't off by much but enough to be frustrating when you are trying to install a retaining ring that won't go on straight.
  7. I am looking to get a new crystal press and was wondering if anyone had any experience with either of these Horotec presses. I have an old BB style press that has served me well, but I feel like I need to upgrade and get one with more die options. I like both of these because they have an adjustment screw for final tightening. I believe that the rack style press is their newer design but couldn't find it on their site. Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  8. I have to agree with everyone else. They look good to me. Panerai hands can be kind of tough because there aren't a lot of reference markers. Add the fact that production accuracy (of the dial or movement) may not be a high priority and you have a perfect storm. It may not be a good business practice, but If if were me and the customer is that picky I would send the watch back free of charge and not accept anymore work from them. You just can't please some people and it sounds like you have bent over backwards trying to do so.
  9. You are right about that. Poor tolerances and quality control.
  10. Well, it is strange for me. That is the first time I have even had to "adjust" a shock spring. The brass used for the springs seem very weak and they are pretty easy to distort. The the end shake on the balance is good. I ended up having to adjust a good bit of the movement to make it right (escape, pallet, and balance end shake). The hole for the cap jewel could be a hair too big for the balance staff, but that is all that I saw out of the ordinary.
  11. Hey Guys, Sorry I haven't posted before now. It has been a busy week. After cleaning it and reassembling the movement, it was still presenting with the same issue. I removed the pallet fork and moved the stud holder to ensure that the roller jewel was indeed moving. It was. Then as I was playing with it on my timer, I happened to press down on the balance jewels and it miraculously started running in beat. I slightly bent the shock spring to apply more pressure and that seemed to have help. Anyway, thought I would share the answer to a very strange situation. Thanks again for all of the help and ideas.
  12. Absolutely. Sorry if there was any confusion.
  13. I'm not following. I am saying that once I start the reassembly I will double check that moving the stud holder does indeed move the position of the balance in relation to the fork position. I will also see what the trace looks like on the timer once it has been reassembled and oiled and take some pictures of it is not better.
  14. The movement has been cleaned but I haven't had the time to reassemble yet. I will post some pictures of the timer once I do. Before I cleaned it, the amplitude was around 255-260 in the flat positions. I am wondering if there could be extraneous noise throwing off the timer. If that were the case though, wouldn't it also be throwing off the rate and amplitude readings? Thanks!
  15. I know what being in beat is and in my experience moving the stud is what moves the position of the roller jewel. The regulator is used to change the effective length of the hairspring to either speed up or slow down the movement. Perhaps we are using different terminology? I do appreciate the help though.
  16. I think that you mean the stud holder but I get what you mean. I will check that out when I start reassembling. Thanks!
  17. Thank you for the replies. It is very strange indeed and the first time this has ever happened. I took the advice given and took it apart and cleaned it. I will start the reassembly process when I get some time. While disassembling, I didn't notice anything that was glaringly obvious. I checked to make sure the pallets were secured to the fork as well as both the roller jewel and roller to the balance. I thought that it might be my timer so I threw on another movement and it was just fine. This is one of those 3135 clone movements. They are very, very, very poorly finished. I will see if I can get picture. Thanks!
  18. Hey Guys, I have a watch currently on my bench that I have had a heck of a time with. When I first got it, the amplitude was barely 180 degrees in the flat positions and I noticed that the end shake of the escape wheel and balance were way too big. To the point that the escape wheel was almost out of the jewel in dial up position. The watch is one of those Asian clones and I have a feeling that the answer to my question will lie there. After adjusting the end shakes and adjusting a couple of other things, the amplitude is almost acceptable. The movement is pretty dirty so I am hoping that will improve more with a good cleaning. The problem is I cannot get the movement in beat. I have spent a huge amount of time with my timing machine trying to figure out what is happening but it will not get into beat no matter how Inmove the stud holder. Have any of you run across this before or have any recommendations as to what to check? Thanks in advance!
  19. It looks like the new fourth wheel is for a 6497-1 which beats at 18000 bph. The fourth wheel with the broken pivot looks like 6497-2 clone which beats at 21600 bph. Not sure if the ETA 6497-2 wheel would be compatible or not. May be better to buy a new movement and put that one in the parts drawer for future spares like JDM recommended.
  20. That was a very good read but I still say that the movement you have is an Asian clone. There are lots of red flags that come up saying it isn't an ETA or IWC movement. One which is pretty ways to see is that the shock spring is certainly not Incabloc. This is also a pretty good read: http://www.iwcforum.com/Movements/IWC_Calibre_7xxx.pdf
  21. That isn't the same movement. This is IWC's version of the 7750 (i.e. 79350).
  22. I also believe the movement is Asian and that the watch is a replica.
  23. The blued screws are usually done for decorations purposes. I have blued screws myself over a flame where the slot has not changed. I think it is because the screw was coated in something not removed during the polishing process. I did not polish the screw slot. I think that these screws are possibly blues with a chemical process. Also, the IWC 79350 is much more finely decorated and finished. It also has a triovis adjustment on the balance.
  24. That is an Asian copy of the ETA 7750 and very likely a replica IWC. You should still be able to follow the ETA 7750 guide to service it though.
  25. What happens when you wind it manually? Can you post some pictures?
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