Jump to content

Seiko 6309 can’t wind

Glynconn

By Glynconn
in Introduce Yourself Here

 Share

Recommended Posts

Glynconn Member

Glynconn

Posted
Posted

Hi all, a newbie here starting with a Seiko 6309. Unable to manually wind the movement using a screwdriver via the ratchet wheel. Nothing happens. Have i got a main spring arbor that is worn or worn ratchet wheel? Before I put the ratchet wheel on, all the wheels move ok when I move the ms with my tweezers.thoughts grateful. Thanks 

Glynconn Member

Glynconn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hi all, I have dismantled and cleaned all parts except for the main spring. I have no knowledge of the watch fault when I bought it from eBay. My reasoning was it needed a good clean and oil for it to work but maybe that was wrong. If the train of wheels move freely when I turn the mainspring barrel before placing the rachet wheel on top of the barrel, why can’t I manually wind the movement?

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the WRT forum. 

Indicatations point to,

Broken mainspring OR spring eye disengaged from arbour hook.

Check ratchets wheels square hole for wear.

Check arbour's square shoulder  for wear.

Ratchet wheel should fit on arbour square perfectly.

Ratchet wheel fitted on arbour upside down.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, Glynconn said:

Hi all, I have dismantled and cleaned all parts except for the main spring. I have no knowledge of the watch fault when I bought it from eBay. My reasoning was it needed a good clean and oil for it to work but maybe that was wrong. If the train of wheels move freely when I turn the mainspring barrel before placing the rachet wheel on top of the barrel, why can’t I manually wind the movement?

Do you mean manually wind with the crown as this movement can't be wound with the crown?

  • Like 1
Glynconn Member

Glynconn

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies. I am winding the movement via a screwdriver and the ratchet wheel to see if the train of wheels moves under the mainspring power. I have tried 3 different main spring barrels and no difference. I suspect the ratchet wheel opening is worn or the arbor square has rounded with age. I have ordered a replacement ratchet wheel to see if that helps.

Glynconn Member

Glynconn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
18 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Does the ratchet wheel turn when you turn the ratchet wheel screw?

Is the mainspring installed in the correct direction?

Yes the ratchet wheel turns when you turn its screw. Is the ratchet wheel not connecting to the arbor correctly?

AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
16 minutes ago, Glynconn said:

Yes the ratchet wheel turns when you turn its screw. Is the ratchet wheel not connecting to the arbor correctly?

So does the barrel also rotate when you turn the screw?

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Glynconn said:

Yes the ratchet wheel turns when you turn its screw. Is the ratchet wheel not connecting to the arbor correctly?

Mainspring is broken or not engaged with arbour hook.

As you said, hole can be worn, but that tilts the barrel or side shake would be excessive.

 

Edited by Nucejoe
Typo
AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Glynconn said:

Just checked- no, the barrel doesn’t move at the same time. Should it?

No the barrel shouldn't rotate.

Do you feel any tension and here the click as you're turning the screw?

2 hours ago, Glynconn said:

I have tried 3 different main spring barrels and no difference.

Are they all 6309 barrels and have you opened them to check the spring and arbour?

  • Thanks 1
Glynconn Member

Glynconn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

No the barrel shouldn't rotate.

Do you feel any tension and here the click as you're turning the screw?

Are they all 6309 barrels and have you opened them to check the spring and arbour?

I feel the tension and hear the click. All 3 have been 6309 barrels for continuity. I have avoided opening up the main barrel unless it’s the last resort. I hear that manually winding the spring back into the barrel is a dark art.

Glynconn Member

Glynconn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 minutes ago, Malocchio said:

You could remove the ratchet wheel and screw and just turn the arbor with tweezers or a peg wood. The train wheels should rotate. If not, open the ms barrel.

Will try turning the arbor with tweezers thanks. Don’t want to open the barrel if I can avoid so I bought 2 other complete barrels to swap out but same result.

mpe7383 Watch Enthusiast

mpe7383

Posted
Posted

What are the threads like on the ratchet wheel screw? Does it actually fully tighten if you hold the ratchet wheel secure?

It looks like you're going to have to take a look inside one of those barrels to see if there is a mainspring in there and inspect the arbour. If you’re careful there's no need to remove the spring for now, just have a look then refit the cap.

  • Thanks 1
Glynconn Member

Glynconn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, HectorLooi said:

Have a look at this video for reference. 

Thanks. have been using this video as a reference for the last few weeks- very good for a beginner.

GPrideaux WRT Addict

GPrideaux

Posted
Posted

Based on the photo, you're doing this without the pallet installed. In that case, the barrel should turn as you turn the ratchet wheel as any wind you put in the mainspring should immediately unwind through the train, and you shouldn't feel an accumulation of tension. If you've done that with three different barrels it seems unlikely that none of them would have a properly engaged and unbroken mainspring so if you are not seeing any movement in the train the problem is likely not in the barrel. You said the train moved freely when you turned the barrel before installing the ratchet wheel. Can you still turn the barrel and see the train move with the ratchet wheel in place?

  • Like 4
mpe7383 Watch Enthusiast

mpe7383

Posted
Posted
19 minutes ago, GPrideaux said:

Based on the photo, you're doing this without the pallet installed. In that case, the barrel should turn as you turn the ratchet wheel as any wind you put in the mainspring should immediately unwind through the train, and you shouldn't feel an accumulation of tension. If you've done that with three different barrels it seems unlikely that none of them would have a properly engaged and unbroken mainspring so if you are not seeing any movement in the train the problem is likely not in the barrel. You said the train moved freely when you turned the barrel before installing the ratchet wheel. Can you still turn the barrel and see the train move with the ratchet wheel in place?

Agreed, but just to add, where did you get the replacement barrels complete? Second hand or new? You say the train moves freely, how free, if you have an air puffer, does the escape wheel spin freely by just blowing it? Is there any tension in the spring after you've attempted to wind when you release the click?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nucejoe
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By Nucejoe · Posted

      Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • JohnR725
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Titanium
      Lab Coats

      By Titanium · Posted

      Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Titanium
      Chinese tools debate

      By Titanium · Posted

      Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
    • caseback
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By caseback · Posted

      I found this string about this problem. I've not gone through it all, but I believe it also mentions making a spring. If not in this string, the info is online.
×
×
  • Create New...