Jump to content

Obligatory Introduction


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone, 

Caught a vintage watch collectors bug and decided on expanding my skills with basic watch servicing. Bough some cheap basic tools and non working Jaquet-Droz from 60's with AS 1767 movement and now off to find out what oils to get and where they go ( I think this is most confusing part for me so far ).  

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi, for a rough guide as to what oils to use where, have a look at the Moebius chart here:

https://blog.esslinger.com/moebius-oil-charts/

The blue ones are the newer synthetic types, which are longer lasting. The sizes ''' are in "lignes" which are roughly 2.25mm or 1/11th inch.

 

I'd suggest you start with 9010 (the lightest grade), 9104 (the synt-hp, heavier oil) and 9504 grease (for keyless works etc).

You can use general silicone grease for rubber cased seals etc.

(The "Wristwatch Revival" videos on youtube are pretty good at showing how and where to apply lubrication, to get started).

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Shumway said:

Hello everyone, 

Caught a vintage watch collectors bug and decided on expanding my skills with basic watch servicing. Bough some cheap basic tools and non working Jaquet-Droz from 60's with AS 1767 movement and now off to find out what oils to get and where they go ( I think this is most confusing part for me so far ).  

Hi and welcome.

You've got the bug as well, welcome to the club!

If you need any help with what lubricant goes where, DM me. I teach this subject so might be able to help.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I use on of these Eclipse demagnetisers. https://www.eclipsemagnetics.com/products/workholding-systems/table-top-demagnetiser/ I got fed up with those Mickey Mouse blue things and went industrial You can pick them up on eBay from between £70 to £100. They will demagnetise anything. I mean, anything, from a hairspring to a hammer head. The table is about 5 x 6 inches. You are not going to find anything close to being this good! It will demagnetise the biggest and chunkiest of cases with the movement inside. You'll never wonder again if your demagnetiser did the job.
    • Hi Dean, The solution with the alum for the broken screw is good and is generally used by watchmakers from many years, but You have to take off ALL steel parts from the plate. In some movements, the post for the minute wheel, for example, is made of steel. Deeping partly the plate works too, but some marks may left on the line where the solution doesn't cover the plate. Heating the solution is needed to accelerate the process. With the years, a rich collection of screws gathers and then finding the needed screw is not a problem. But till then it will be helpfull if You get some assorted screws lot. The other option is making screws. This is usually for the ones with specific form and sizes that doesn't meet often. But the skill of making screws is something that will never be unnecessary
    • Haha yes you do have to reel in your bidding enthusiasm Michael. I use a " not enough time policy " to restrict myself or else known as sniper bidding. Decide what you are most prepared to bid and place it 7 seconds before the end, cross your fingers ,job done . The price paid here i would say was top  figure another day could have been $40
    • The question is did Baum and Mercier use that movement.  I know they used other ebouches. I  can't find any evidence that they didn't but that doesn't mean they didn't. 
    • Well my VARIAC experiment worked sort of. By lowering the input voltage I was able to dramatically lower the magnetic field. However try as I might I was not able to demag either anvil. Even wrapped in bubble wrap to ensure it passed through the opening at equa-distance in the hole, the ends still come out highly magnetized. So time to throw in the towel and move on to purchasing the Chinese Elma-like unit from Amazon (I don’t do Ali express since I can’t return stuff if not satisfied like i can on Amazon).  
×
×
  • Create New...