Jump to content

How to ...... from LH burnisher to RH burnisher or vice versa.


Recommended Posts

As far as I"m aware there are two types of Pivot-files and Burnishers; a Left-hand tilted and Right-hand tilted.

Screenshot2024-02-26at12_38_57.png.7c8175bdd75d0d4199236d7833b9931a.pngF

Most people are right-handed and work with their burnisher on the Jacot tool from right to left, they need LH burnisher 3212.

These burnishers are also the most common on the 2nd hand markets.

People like me, left-handed, working on the Jacot-tool from left to right, need a RH burnisher model 3211.

IMG_3355.thumb.jpeg.032a916834bdc21480da31f7bd050ca1.jpeg

 

So what to do with a 2nd hand set of LH 3212 burnishers 🤔

IMG_3358.thumb.jpeg.8ae7d38f50daf071ff303059859e9db3.jpeg

Burnishers in general don't come cheap, a new burnisher (3212 or 3211) at CousinsUK cost a whopping £136 exclusive VAT.

If we ignore the rounded edge, the difference in shape between model  3212 and 3211 is how you hold it. Which side of the stick burnisher you are holding ......

If you hold LH model 3212 by its handle, it's a 3212. If you hold model 3212 at the end, at its tip, it become a RH model 3211 🙂

The old LH 3212 burnishers I have (one side is a file, the other side is a burnisher), the handle in the middle is slid over the file / burnisher and hold in place by wooden wedges.

The picture below, the first 4 rows from the top shows a complete stripped file/burnisher. Top row the two end-caps, below the handle, the wooden wedges and the 4th row the file/burnisher.

IMG_3515.thumb.jpeg.5c704c8daaf9ea126bc8cd4a80d58021.jpeg

So if one cuts the burnisher off, like what I've done with a burnisher in the 5th row, and stick what used to be the tip of the burnisher in the handle, you created a RH model 3211 burnisher.

To minimize the cutting heat generated, I used a very thin grinding disk to cut, in stages and with cool-down pauses in between, the hardened file / burnisher.

IMG_3516.thumb.jpeg.44d10e233aeca9945cf2485974f07ab4.jpeg

If the created burnisher is a bit too short for your liking, you can screw the end-cap on the handle as an extension;

IMG_3519.thumb.jpeg.d38447f89079a0d199421ebc3ab89c71.jpeg

A new rounded edge I created on a whetstone.

It's all a matter how you look at it 😁

 

 

Edited by Endeavor
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Endeavor changed the title to How to ...... from LH burnisher to RH burnisher or vice versa.
4 hours ago, Endeavor said:

Burnishers in general don't come cheap, a new burnisher (3212 or 3211) at CousinsUK cost a whopping £136 exclusive VAT.

So, being a frugal Yorkshireman, I bought a cheap Indian burnisher for about £12

20240226_163737.thumb.jpg.5feceb867b07055057b084ec97827511.jpg

There is no handle, so it functions both right and left handed. 😀

The metal does seem hard enough, and I have refinished the surface on some oiled wet and dry. It does seem to do the job. I haven't used a 'proper' burnisher, so I don't know how it would compare.

So the question is, what would spending and extra £130 on a flat piece of metal gain me ?

What would a £££ burnisher do that this one is not able to ?

 

 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 minutes ago, mikepilk said:

So, being a frugal Yorkshireman

You don't need to be a Yorkshireman for that 😲

Being an el-cheapo Dutchman, I bought years ago a piece of rectangular 3x6mm HSS steel;

HSSsteel.jpeg.274d86e49962f8768e3c5136d2ce15e6.jpeg

Seems to work very well too 😉

However, now I can choose between the HSS and the burnishers with a tilt 😁

 

 

Edited by Endeavor
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, mikepilk said:

But is there really much difference between the HSS and the burnishers, or is it just like 'the Emperors new clothes' ?

Both are hardened steel ......... and as said, the HSS seems to do a very nice job. Of course, I'm not a "burnish specialist" ... 🫣

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made a burnisher from a bit of HSS ,to get the so called teeth on it I just drew it over emery cloth like you would do if you were draw filing , from what I understand because I have never seen one the pivot polishing tool is a very fine file one end and a burnisher the other end.

Dell skin flint in Warwickshire 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I went with 8.90£ because 12th century Italian mathematicians are always excellent topics to bring up when trying to get your guests to go home. 
    • As a beginner, I’ve found this forum invaluable. I doubt I would’ve persevered without its support. I’ve had the confidence to attempt things that seemed to me impossible only because I knew there were patient and giving folks gathered around this watering hole, available to share their skill.    I would very much like to know where to go if this one dries up and everyone needs to decamp.  There’s something special about the folks gathered in this group.  How to keep in touch?  
    • After a 3-week work fiasco that took up 137% of my time, I was finally able to get back to restoring a G. Boley 8mm lathe I picked up on eBay. I still need to do a bit of polishing on the tailstock but it works very nicely. Before and after pictures below. In any case, when I was reassembling the motor I wasn't quite sure which side the pully attached to, or if it matters. My question is ... does it matter? The listing photo below shows it the reverse of how I have it now, but it seemed that the cord and the reversing lever(s) should be on the right away from the belt.   
    • Thanks Richard.  That’s clear.   So - another question - how much latitude is there in barrel and spring sizing? Say I have have measured the ID of my barrel to be 9mm and (all other mainspring specs being equal), the closest match I can find for a replacement mainspring is listed with an 8.5mm barrel size, is it acceptable to fit the smaller spring in to the slightly larger barrel without compromising anything functionally?  I’m in this situation now with an AS 1686 which has a 9mm barrel, but the closest replacement I can find has an 8.5mm diameter listed in its specs.  I can find an alternative 9mm spring, but would have to accept a different thickness.  I’m unsure how much wriggle room is acceptable, or whether in mainspring sizing, there’s a priority - ie thickness over barrel size etc. Thanks again for any info.  Cheers, John  
    • We already have a Facebook group run by Mark , so this is a bit moot. Search for “Watch repair lessons” group.   Tom
×
×
  • Create New...