Jump to content

New Oilers - Now I'm Lost, but still better than auto oilers!


Recommended Posts

I just got around to changing my original, now nearly 3 year old, oilers and decided to treat myself and get a Bergeon set (regular not the ergonomic) rather than a like-for-like replacement the cheap(er) generic ones I have been using to date. I must say that I much prefer the tip design on these new ones over the ones I have been using. However, the colour of the oilers is different, meaning that they no longer match the oil pots (which I just re-filled of course?!?), so now not only do I have to remember that the blue oiler is now my HP1300 and not the black one, but I also have to remember that it goes in the hole behind the black pot holder not the blue one. And the same for the yellow and red and ....

No question, just needed to vent!

Just FYI, I have gone back to the pin type oilers after trying to use auto-oilers for almost a year, I found the auto oilers rather clumsy and difficult to apply the correct amount of lubrication, you end up with a uniform slug of oil which most of the time is either too much or too little. You can calibrate them, but then what do you calibrate them to, you could calibrate for one watch, but then on your next watch you will inevitably need a little more here or a little less there, so they are never calibrated for the movement you are working on at the time and you end up having to try and do half a stroke, which is an art in itself. I am sure that there is a lot of user error, but for me the advantages do not outweigh the additional work in using and setting them up.

Edited by Waggy
Typo
  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Waggy said:

I just got around to changing my original, now nearly 3 year old, oilers and decided to treat myself and get a Bergeon set (regular not the ergonomic) rather than a like-for-like replacement the cheap(er) generic ones I have been using to date. I must say that I much prefer the tip design on these new ones over the ones I have been using. However, the colour of the oilers is different, meaning that they no longer match the oil pots (which I just re-filled of course?!?), so now not only do I have to remember that the blue oiler is now my HP1300 and not the black one, but I also have to remember that it goes in the hole behind the black pot holder not the blue one. And the same for the yellow and red and ....

No question, just needed to vent!

Just FYI, I have gone back to the pin type oilers after trying to use auto-oilers for almost a year, I found the auto oilers rather clumsy and difficult to apply the correct amount of lubrication, you end up with a uniform slug of oil which most of the time is either too much or too little. You can calibrate them, but then what do you calibrate them to, you could calibrate for one watch, but then on your next watch you will inevitably need a little more here or a little less there, so they are never calibrated for the movement you are working on at the time and you end up having to try and do half a stroke, which is an art in itself. I am sure that there is a lot of user error, but for me the advantages do not outweigh the additional work in using and setting them up.

Never used an auto oiler but that has confirmed what i was thinking about them. I know we are supposed to try different ideas but to spend money on something and then have it left in a drawer unused happens way too often with watch  equipment ( what have we bought that we never use now ? ) Maybe more suited to a pro using one every day. I think the efficiency and convenience of deep, shallow, fast, slow dipping ( accurate oil pick up is an art in itself )of a couple of different sized hand oilers works well for most of us

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I like the auto oilers for shock settings. It’s a time saver for me since I’m not happy with my do over rate with manual technique. I do test for volume on a piece of paper before proceeding every time but always one and done. 

…if you were to try and use the auto for pivots and such- If you did not know the volume can be adjusted…well, adjust so you have the smallest amount and you can give it a few pumps…

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Waggy said:

so they are never calibrated for the movement you are working on at the time and you end up having to try and do half a stroke, which is an art in itself. I am sure that there is a lot of user error, but for me the advantages do not outweigh

I have found that half strokes are frowned upon in most situations. 

  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

"You can calibrate them." 
Can you? Lol. Mine has two settings. 
1. Flood the jewel in 1/4 of a second.
2. Flood the jewel instantly.

Also interesting you use all the oilers in the set. I bought the same set and i can do everything i need to with the black one. I polished and dressed the tips and the black one is just perfectly versatile for me. 

If i have to use a slab of grease like on a crown gasket i will use one of the big ones at times.

That said, i just made a thread with a much much better and free alternative to the auto oilers for shock settings here.
 

 

Edited by Birbdad
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
×
×
  • Create New...