Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi a bought this liquid called liquinox a watch this watch repairer called Alex use it but everytime a mixed it with still water to watch it keep bring rust and I'm not sure it is right to use?

20231219_153041.jpg

Posted

yes- water based and water is the enemy so if you use it you have to displace the water. Don't let parts soak for long and rinse in IPA immediately then warm air dry...

...there will be others here who avoid any water based products for just the reason you've discovered...

I use liquinox for extra dirty parts and case parts. It gets things extremely clean but use with caution...

  • Like 1
Posted

I experienced this problem several years ago when I first started out in this hobby. 

I made a similar comment in a post about water-based cleaners causing rust, as did several other members.

I think it was @nickelsilver who promptly chided us for jumping to conclusions and making generalised statements. He pointed out that water-based cleaners have been used in horology for decades without any problems. He also noted that we were using non-horological products with non-horological cleaning machines.

After thinking about his comments, I have to agree with his observations. I think proper watch cleaning products have additives in them that inhibit corrosion and if used according to the manufacturer's instructions, should perform as expected.

Over this past year, I've been using my dental water-based ultrasonic cleaning solution for cleaning clock parts, as using quantities of L&R #111 enough to immerse such large parts would be expensive. And now I realize that I didn't get the rust problem. So, what did I do differently? 

I think it is the concentration of solution used. Dental ultrasonic cleaning solutions are typically used in 1% to 2% concentrations, similar to Liquinox. And up to 10% for heavily soiled instruments. I used about 5%-10% solutions as my clocks were really filthy.

Dental ultrasonic cleaners are supposed to contain corrosion inhibitors in them and are designed to prevent rust. But our surgical instruments are basically made of stainless steel and do not rust. So I suspect the amount of corrosion inhibitor in them are too low to prevent rust in soft and high carbon steels. By using my solutions at higher concentrations, it finally had enough corrosion inhibitors to prevent rust.

Liquinox is also supposed to contain corrosion inhibitors, but like dental solutions, are designed for stainless steels. So my advice is to try Liquinox at 5% concentrations and see what happens.

Posted

Hi. I use a water based ammoniated cleaner for clocks in the machine no problems. I think the most important part of the cleaning process is drying the parts well to avoid rust, warm air is the best and don’t skimp the process.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have had 1 watch out of the maybe 30 or so that I have done that formed some rust stains on the wheels.
I am not sure what I did different but to avoid it happening again I did the following

1. Lower the temperature of my washes.  Not sure if this was the cause but I feel the the one bad cycle was with a slightly higher temp (I keep the temp under 50º now)
2. Refresh my IPA rinse jars.  Perhaps I should add one more jar - my theory is that even though my final rinse jar looked clear and clean perhaps enough water had made it through from earlier stages to dilute it so that water remained on the parts?
3. I am more careful about getting the parts promptly out of the water based jars and into the IPA.  I previously thought that I had a lot of time as long as the parts were not exposed to air while wet but following this experience I am less inclined to wander off and do something else while the parts are cleaning.

Following this I have also taken to sometimes washing parts by hand in IPA using a small (#4) paint brush from the local arts shop and have found my results (measured in terms of watch amplitude) have improved.

 

Posted
21 hours ago, Murks said:

Hi a bought this liquid called liquinox a watch this watch repairer called Alex use it but everytime a mixed it with still water to watch it keep bring rust and I'm not sure it is right to use?

 

Is there any reason you're using Liquidnox instead of a solvent-based cleaner like L and R. I know it's biodegradable which is a good thing. As others have said, maybe up the concentration level.

Posted

Just because a so watch repairer on youtube using it to clean watch parts and plate and bridge thought to give it a try.

  • Like 1
Posted

Because of the concern of water here I use 1 percent Liquinox and deionized water, change the IPA rinse every time and into my dehydrator with the fan. No rust. The cost savings, no offensive odors and cleanliness are too good to pass up

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
    • I found this string about this problem. I've not gone through it all, but I believe it also mentions making a spring. If not in this string, the info is online.
    • No, I now realise it’s broken😥 ive looked for one online, but v. Expensive! im going to service as is, in the hope that  one turns up. Thank  you.
×
×
  • Create New...