Jump to content

Newcomer from Switzerland !


Recommended Posts

For now I'm working on a 2202, taking a lot of pictures and annotating them, step by step, day by day, getting tools when needed... Learning and practicing in other ways while waiting to be ready to continue on this one...










  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello and welcome to the forum and greetings from Geneva (you must be somewhere close).

Taking good pictures of EVERY step and every screw has been my recipe as well.

For the particular picture below, don't forget to note that the screws with three grooves are reverse-threaded (you screw them in/out the opposite way to normal).




16 hours ago, nico said:



  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Update, few weeks after...

There's a lot I could say, so I'll try to focus on actions and results.

My first service, on a simple but small movement, was given for junk from the start:


A Seko 2220-3470 "socie"

No hope?




After a truly artisanal cleaning:



But in the end, while trying to polish the pinion, the wheel came off its balance shaft. No hope 😕

Anyway, I reassembled and lubricated the rest of the parts (with NOVOSTAR 17313 Type B for everything, and Moebius 8300 grease) (I'll probably make a separate post for all the equipment and techniques I use, in the right topic). After that I opened the main spring barrel (thanks to WRT I found hints here, thanks to my luck at the end I retrieved very shortly all the pieces 1 meter away).


I also started to polish/renovate some cases and acrylic glasses, and started to implement a diary system (python/mkdocs).

During the Christmas holidays I brought back to life a Lord Matic, but that's another story 😉






Edited by nico
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  I can see that the cannon pinion is moving as it should once I installed the pallet fork. I created a small video but was not able to upload it. It is a mov file type. I need now to source a GR4014X mainspring, a stop ever #9433 and both calendar disc as the days/dates are peeling out... This is the mido watch which holds the ETA Movement.... I just want to thanks all of you guys for your help, specially @eccentric59 who nailed it! So, I would consider this case as closed unless of course any question from any of you... Best regards Fernando     I could not download the file... I will tray to located. Many thanks. 
    • Thanks a lot everyone!  I'll update you as soon as a final decision has been made by my friend (and depending on her decision, what I may find inside). 
    • Thanks Marc, clearly I have a lot to learn about metallurgy. I’d expect the cutting of tool or spring steel to be a lot harder to cut into a precise shape- I expect I’d have to anneal it first? 
    • Unfortunately if you have used mild steel you will have little hope of hardening and tempering it, it simply doesn't contain enough carbon. You need to use a steel with a higher carbon content like tool steel or spring steel. One good source for this is engineers feeler gauges which can be picked up relatively inexpensively and provide a range of thicknesses of material. this will then harden and temper in pretty much the way you have described.
    • Thanks for this excellent tutorial and very fine illustrations @Jon! Really first class! 👍 I noticed that your image was a bit too small to read with ease, so here's a larger copy of it. I summarized @nickelsilver's method for adjusting beat errors to the following, but you can find all the info in the thread I linked to: “For everyday work, from the smallest ladies’ movements to marine chronometer, I set the balance with the cock on a bench block so the roller table is in a hole, balance on the block. Lift up the cock and move it over- not flipping it, just moving laterally, until I can see the slot in the hairspring collet, get in there and adjust (for tiny watches this is usually with an oiler, larger, a small screwdriver). Go back in the watch and check on the machine. I hold a balance arm of the rim with tweezers while moving the collet.”    
  • Create New...