Jump to content

Hamilton 9399 with ETA 963.113


Recommended Posts

Hi All

 

I have an old Hamilton 9399 which stopped working... At first I thought it was just the battery which I have replaced by a brand new one but the second dial is stuck... it tries to move but doesn't tick to the next second... 

I have removed the stem and tried to push the second hand by hand and also turned the caliber screw but not change...

I have made a video to show the issue...

Has anyone seen this issue before and how can I troubleshooting this ?

 

 

 

s-l1600 (1).jpg

Edited by pioroman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, pioroman said:

I have an old Hamilton

Old any idea how old?

11 hours ago, pioroman said:

it tries to move but doesn't tick to the next second

Old mechanical quartz watch. Contrary to popular belief the quartz watches never need to clean that is incorrect. They need A servicing just like any other mechanical watch otherwise you will get this typically.

11 hours ago, pioroman said:

I have removed the stem and tried to push the second hand by hand and also turned the caliber screw but not change

Pushing the hand probably is going to be in your best interest. Then the screw you mean the one in the circuit board? That's for timekeeping adjustment it would have zero effect as you found out on your problem.

This particular movement has come up at least twice before you should Be able to do a search.

Then I'm attaching the technical sheet for the watch you'll notice that the part number isn't quite right but somewhere in there is a cross reference to the parts. The reason I'm giving you this one rather than the exact one is because this one has how to service the movements. Most of the technical documentation that online the purpose of it is for parts and they don't always have the servicing part.

938_Eta 963.114, 963.124.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

ok so I got the line free tester.. and it turns ok when forced. (new battery was left inside)...  but as soon as I move it away from the tester... it tries to move the hand but doesn't get through.... so what would be the next step ? lub or is something else dead ?

 

 

Edited by pioroman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

nope but curious and wanting to learn...  JohnR725 posted some servicing diagrams... so I might give it a shot... do you recon that greasing would be the next thing to try ?  not sure what oil to buy and dont want to spend much either... if you have any recommendations that would be great (Aliexpress)...

Also may be I can do a small disassembly and lub (e.g. not remove the hands as I dont have the tools and it looks fragile)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Unfortunately there is no shortcut to servicing a quartz watch.

Yes like a mechanical watch no shortcuts for servicing.

3 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

Watch this video by this forum's creator on servicing a quartz watch.

Be warned the video skips things that ideally should be done when servicing a quartz watch. He does not have the electrical checks that really should do because of course he probably doesn't have the test equipment and neither do you. In other words you just have to assume that your circuit is working because you don't have the proper equipment and you can't measure the current consumption to see how well things are working.

Then as this is a servicing video and not necessarily a procedural video he's missing a really important step. This is where he carefully disassemble such as all the parts and then in the next video he reassembles but in between the watch was run through the cleaning machine which you do not have.

3 hours ago, pioroman said:

nope but curious and wanting to learn...  JohnR725 posted some servicing diagrams... so I might give it a shot... do you recon that greasing would be the next thing to try ?  not sure what oil to buy and dont want to spend much either... if you have any recommendations that would be great (Aliexpress)...

Also may be I can do a small disassembly and lub (e.g. not remove the hands as I dont have the tools and it looks fragile)

Now we get interesting conflict here you would like to learn? But you don't want to spend much money and unfortunately this is watch repair were an endless supply a tools conceivably will be needed.

I know how but another video I'm trying to think about what I want to give this video thumb down because it is exactly what you want to do although for unknown reasons he takes the front of the watch a part.  The only reason I'm giving you the video is it's the same caliber and he's basically doing a quick cleaning and it's a miracle the watch will run at all the way he's doing this.

https://youtu.be/vT6INP4VjE0?si=IUu8sXTl9Pviv93W

Oh if you think the hands look fragile just wait until you try to put the gear train of the rotor back together. The videos of putting quartz watches together might look simple but it's not really simply get the gear train in. One thing the rotor is magnetic it keeps wanting to stick to everything in the wheels typically don't like to stay wherever you put them.

Oh and there's a classic problem with YouTube videos they never show you the problems they only show you how easy and simple everything is. So a lot of times people come to this discussion group with the thought that watch repairs going to be super simple easy because they saw the video that makes it look easy.

To properly serviced this watch is going to be disassembled like marks video shows. Cleaned was some sort of cleaning procedure in other words a solvent until it's all nice and clean. Reassembled and you could probably get by with two lubricants some grease for the keyless and setting parts and that extremely light synthetic oil for the rest of the watch. Unfortunately you're not going to find those lubricants on Ally express as quick look shows mystery oils. In other words zero specification so you have no idea what they really are or are not.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 6/2/2023 at 10:52 AM, pioroman said:

Hi All

 

I have an old Hamilton 9399 which stopped working... At first I thought it was just the battery which I have replaced by a brand new one but the second dial is stuck... it tries to move but doesn't tick to the next second... 

I have removed the stem and tried to push the second hand by hand and also turned the caliber screw but not change...

I have made a video to show the issue...

Has anyone seen this issue before and how can I troubleshooting this ?

 

 

 

s-l1600 (1).jpg

 

 

Yippy I have managed to get it going by putting some lub ...   now I want to replace the glass... but how do I remove the stem ? I don't see a button to push ? what is the trick to remove it ? (I dont remember how I did it last time!)

Edited by pioroman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, pioroman said:

 

 

.. but how do I remove the stem ? I don't see a button to push ? what is the trick to remove it ? (I dont remember how I did it last time!)

Push the setting lever vertically where the dot is („PUSH“) and it should come up releasing the stem („LIFT“).

IMG_5912.jpeg.09efb50db4697263a777f1f4856e566d.jpeg

Edited by Kalanag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes @SwissSeiko, most of us here are just hobbyist and some horological products are simply too expensive. For example, cleaning fluids. I think even you find L&R cleaning fluids expensive. But I haven't found anything that shines up parts like #111. So I just bite the bullet and fork up the $$$. Here in Singapore, a bottle of #111 is $180SGD. ($134USD) The Rinse #3 is the same price. Oils like 2ml of Moebius 9010 is around $45SGD. Imagine if you had to fill your car engine with 5 quarts of 9010! I have been using odorless kerosene to preclean my parts before putting them into the #111. The kerosene does such a fantastic job that I may use that in place of the Rinse #3. But I can do without the #111, but now its role is just a brightening agent.  So my cleaning regimen will be kerosene, #111, kerosene and IPA. I see how that works out. I might even re-distill my used IPA to save even more.
    • What works for you, is good enough for me. You and I have great interactions on here, and you've taught me some things! I guess I should approach things with the thought process that most of the users on here are probably doing this as a hobby. I find myself reading some posts and thinking, that's definitely not how I would do it. But I do this for a living, I have overhead costs, bills to pay, taxes, tooling costs ect., and to many on here, it's probably just fine to do it as is necessary to work. So I'm probably a little overzealous when it comes to finishing. You should know, we(for sure at least me) appreciate you. If someone chimes in on my posts, it's usually you, and you're a good chap!
    • Hi. Just curious. Is there an official service center for orient in your area?  I had a problem with my orient mako before. I was regulating the movement and lost focus on what I was doing. I accidentally hit the balance wheel . I had the same issue in finding parts for it so I ended up sending it to the official service center here in the Philippines.
    • I think it was HectorLooi that posted some information at the time that we were discussing what materials to use for cleaning jars in an ultrasonic machine. It was decided that steel jars transmit the cavitation bubbles better than glass or plastic, which was considered the worst as it absorbs their energy. So I've tried a few different cleaning solutions, mostly non-proprietary watch stuff. There is a thread I made last year experimenting , actually I might have tagged it onto someone else's thread,  I can't remember.  Just mirror residue and evaporation rates. 🤔 Elma pro ammoniated,  paraffin,  ligher fuel , Ipa, meths, and I think break cleaner was in there as well. Elma and paraffin have a very slow evaporation rate, probably days. Both have wetting properties and are far reaching, paraffin being very much so, if you're looking for a deep cleaning solution then paraffin soaks well and finds every nook, cranny and crevice. When I use paraffin which is usually if I hand or US pre clean then i place the parts on absorbant tissue  afterwards to soak up the excess then spin them off and use IPA or break cleaner to rinse them off after that a rotary wash with elma and ipa for rinsing . I don't use a US that much, really just if any wheels and pinion leaves are really gunked up, which is when I hang them on the little wire tree. I kind of base how i will clean by how dirty and gunked up the movement is. If it's bad the procedure will follow : soak in paraffin for a couple of hours, peg out plate and bridges and hand clean what I can with a small brush to remove the bulk. Then onto the USM, some parts that can be hung go on the tree like wheels etc,  others that can't go in a slow rotating mesh basket, all in paraffin, the USM  loosens the crap up . Then put them in a rotary basket, spin them in paraffin, spin off the excess, then in elma then 3 rinses in IPA. That's like the full valet, if the movement is really dirty. The parts that don't get that treatment are the balance complete and the pallet fork, which I really like to clean by hand.  Screws and springs I also won't put in a machine, too easily lost, these are easily cleaned by swishing them in a jar of whatever you fancy . If I get a really stubborn sticky hairspring, that will be removed for cleaning separately, brreak fluid is good for that or tetrachloroethylene. Thats one way to get rid of the mother in-law, at 85 yrs old mine is heart attack territory.....🤔....I could accidentally have an envelope with certain contents fall out of my jacket pocket onto her dining room table...accidentally....🤔
    • Yeah, that's the guy. I told him it's cheaper if I just send the pictures to my  mother-in-law directly. 😮 
×
×
  • Create New...