Jump to content

Watch cleaning fluids in my Elma Super Elite


Recommended Posts

Hello everyone!

I have some questions about what fluids to use in my cleaning machine. I have an Elma Super Elite and I am a little questioned about what fluids to use for the three cleaning stages. 

At the moment, I am using an Elma rinse as first clean (which I know is completely wrong), then distilled water and then IPA. I need to replace the first fluid which should be a cleaning solution and I would also appreciate some advice on the two rinses. 

Price isn't a huge problem and I have the option to have the cleaner in a well ventilated area if needed. I service almost exclusively vintage watches. Some Zenith, Omega, Rolex, Certina and everything else. 

I was thinking of getting the L&R extra fine as the cleaning, then using distilled water and IPA as the two rinses. Does anyone have any tips for improvement or does anyone think it's a bad combo for any reason?

If it's a bad combo, what would you suggest??

Huge thanks for all the help(:

I just remember, I am using the Elma Suprol Pro Rinse as the cleaning. Would it be a good combo to get the L&R ultra fine, use the suprol pro as first rinse and IPA as second rinse. 

I know the shellac on pallet forks is pretty sensitive to some solutions. Are there any parts I should be weary about placing in the cleaner?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, BrehmerR said:

(which I know is completely wrong), then distilled water

It's extremely important to use the appropriate solutions the way they were designed. If you using water-based cleaner which are not then you can rinse with water. But if you're using the non-water-based I'm not really sure what would happen with water but it is not approved at all.

If you actually look at the cleaning process when done correctly. The first solution the so-called cleaning solution has additional properties that cause things to go in the solution like lubrication. So it's purpose is to put everything into the solution and off of the plates gears whatever. Then the rinse several of them the follow up dilute the concentration of stuff in solution until the plates and everything a nice clean. It's extremely important as I said that they all be compatible.

 

13 hours ago, praezis said:

You can leave jar 2 + 3 as is and use Elma 9:1 for cleaning in the 1st jar. This combination is approved by Elma

So in this example the first solution is a water-based cleaning solution. Then definitely water can be used as the rinse. Followed with a brief bath of Isopropyl alcohol to help to remove the water as fast as possible before going into the dryer. 

17 hours ago, BrehmerR said:

I just remember, I am using the Elma Suprol Pro Rinse as the cleaning. Would it be a good combo to get the L&R ultra fine, use the suprol pro as first rinse and IPA as second rinse.

The L&R ultra fine Is a good For cleaning and the rinse should work but I would really like to see two rinses not just one because you're not doing a good enough job of cleaning your Going to leave residue behind on the plates. Notice how your machine has three jars one cleaning Two separate rinse. The isopropyl alcohol is still good but you can swap one of the jars for that. Otherwise I think you just shortchanging cleaning.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first jar cleaner, the other two jars both rinse.  I always filtered them after a time to remove the dirt. When it comes to change the last rinse becomes the first. I used filter papers that at the time you could buy from Boots chemist. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, BrehmerR said:

Hello everyone!

I have some questions about what fluids to use in my cleaning machine. I have an Elma Super Elite and I am a little questioned about what fluids to use for the three cleaning stages. 

At the moment, I am using an Elma rinse as first clean (which I know is completely wrong), then distilled water and then IPA.

Excuse my ignorance. I use IPA as a final clean. But, due to comments, I remove any shellac contained items before this final rinse. I was under the impression that immersion in IPA for more than a couple of minutes causes damage to shellac. If you are using a machine, do you remove the shellac item mid clean, or not put them in initially?

This is just a general enquiry. Not a criticism.

Thank you

Ross

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always removed the balance complete and pallets and cleaned them in Ronsonol lighter fluid in a screw lid jar, you can leave the parts in that for as long as you like it is completely harmless to shellac. When you remove the parts put the part on some tissue paper and use your blower to dry. I used this method for years and never had any problems, just disregard what others say about Ronsonol. 

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, rossjackson01 said:

If you are using a machine, do you remove the shellac item mid clean, or not put them in initially?

Neither. It will take a couple of cleaning cycles (3 min. cold IPA rinse) to remove the shellac.

More often I find pallets without any shellac initially, then I reapply before cleaning. No big matter.

Frank

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 1/23/2023 at 11:47 AM, praezis said:

You can leave jar 2 + 3 as is and use Elma 9:1 for cleaning in the 1st jar. This combination is approved by Elma.

Frank

I've been using L&R and #3 rinse but I'm giving Elma 1:9/water/IPA a try. Even when I order the Elma from Cousins and have it shipped to the US there's still significant cost savings...

...and I really like oldhippy's recommendation of Ronsonal. I get the shellacked parts into the cleaning cup and just forget about them while I'm working the cleaning machine, everything comes out clean and bright, it saves me a bit of risk with shellac and IPA and I do less fiddling with the balance removed.

Edited by rehajm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...