Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
  On 11/24/2022 at 6:20 PM, Klassiker said:

Look closely at the order in which the dots appear on the screen. I suspect something like this:

Expand  

One of the problems with a smaller LCD screen is rollover error for the lack of a better term. Basically with the LCD screen we only see a small window versus the numbers. We've already discussed that somewhere in the group related to the beat error. If you go over around 4 ms I don't remember the exact number the numbers will continue to rise but the graphical display wool over and might actually look perfect and the numbers will not agree. This is where the numbers always have to agree with the graphical display and of course visually that needs to agree with whatever you're seeing on the machine.

Then it's a shame the Chinese didn't exactly clone the witschi machines as they have other features that come in handy for stuff like this. Such as frequency mode where the machine will tell you how many beats per hour the watches going. It also has the added bonus when it's in frequency mode the incoming frequency is used to run the graphical display. Or simplistically the display is somewhat flat and then you can look at the display for errors in the display aspect. So in other words if you want to figure out like this watch frequency mode you could see that it's actually running super super slow and you can look at the graphical display and it's probably going to look reasonably decent in know it's just the timekeeping issue.

 

Posted (edited)

Well, looks like Klassiker nailed it on that trace overlap. I removed just one single balance screw (good tip John) and now the rate is -347 s/d. Amplitude and beat error still look pretty decent.

Also, and this seems odd to me, the balance IS original to the watch. The serial number is scratched on the underside. So, not sure how it got soooo heavy, but it is. It’s like someone decided to put a couple extra screws in it! Can anybody think of anything else that could have happened here? 

870E01AA-4BEE-4DBB-A1C6-1477B3FD4254.jpeg

Edited by Woolshire
Posted
  On 11/25/2022 at 2:04 AM, Woolshire said:

So, not sure how it got soooo heavy, but it is. It’s like someone decided to put a couple extra screws in it! Can anybody think of anything else that could have happened here? 

Expand  

I think I commented up above what the problem could be? What if somebody swapped a hairspring? Hairsprings don't have serial numbers on them and as I pointed out up above somewhere if you swap a hairspring you have to match the balance wheel to that hairspring. That would be the most likely scenario as balance wheels typically do not get heavy all by themselves.

Now that one screw confirmed what we suspected you can remove the opposite Screw to keep the watch poised and see how much better the timekeeping is.

  • Like 1
Posted

Okay. I ended up (for now) removing mean time screws, the ones not near the arms. That did it for rate. It is currently +20 s/d dial down and -20 s/d dial up. I will likely end up looking for some smaller gold balance screws to use so I can leave all four mean time screws on the balance. I could reduce weight by filing some of the bigger screws but really don’t want to since they are gold.

Thank you for everyone’s help! I may have eventually stumbled upon the cause but would it would have taken substantially longer. This is an excellent example of the importance of stopping when baffled and seeking advice on this forum…what a great gift to both get help and provide it.

  • Like 2
Posted
  On 11/25/2022 at 8:12 PM, Woolshire said:

Okay. I ended up (for now) removing mean time screws, the ones not near the arms. That did it for rate. It is currently +20 s/d dial down and -20 s/d dial up. I will likely end up looking for some smaller gold balance screws to use so I can leave all four mean time screws on the balance. I could reduce weight by filing some of the bigger screws but really don’t want to since they are gold.

Thank you for everyone’s help! I may have eventually stumbled upon the cause but would it would have taken substantially longer. This is an excellent example of the importance of stopping when baffled and seeking advice on this forum…what a great gift to both get help and provide it.

Expand  

Well done wool, if the balance wheel is original then a weak torqued spring fitted at some point or the original become weak like a mainspring can ?  Or could the spring have been too long ? Not vibrated to match the balance wheel. Love to hear John's thoughts to the causes as well.

Posted
  On 11/25/2022 at 8:12 PM, Woolshire said:

I ended up (for now) removing mean time screws, the ones not near the arms. That did it for rate. It is currently +20 s/d dial down and -20 s/d dial up. I will likely end up looking for some smaller gold balance screws to use so I can leave all four mean time screws on the balance. I could reduce weight by filing some of the bigger screws but really don’t want to since they are gold

Expand  

Then just a clarification Because is not clear in my mind. You removed one of the screws and verified your running super slow. Did you remove the opposite screw on the other side? Then Found out still slow and Removed the mean time screws or did you just remove the mean time screws?

  On 11/25/2022 at 9:37 PM, Neverenoughwatches said:

if the balance wheel is original then a weak torqued spring fitted at some point or the original become weak like a mainspring can ?

Expand  

 

  On 11/25/2022 at 2:04 AM, Woolshire said:

The serial number is scratched on the underside.

Expand  

Then yes the balance wheel is original as the quote above indicates.

II snipped out an image and circles some things. Notice the dark spots like the one screw that looks very bad the regulator arm and even the balance wheel what exactly are those dark spots? Classically to me that looks like rust damage Or perhaps a corrosion caused by rust were water that's been cleaned up. As a reminder this watch has been serviced before who knows what's happened to it before but I've seen this before it always reminds me of rust. 

One of the problems with vintage watches are they been worked on a lot. We don't know their prior history. We do know unfortunately from Our own experiences that damaging or destroying a hairspring is actually quite easy to do. Then somewhere in the discussion was the suggestion that the balance staff might've been changed that's another opportunity for an accident to occur. It might not have even been the hairspring damaged some times when people restaffed they break the collet of the hairspring. Like wrong sized staff will do that sometimes or just careless handling.

Then to the best of my knowledge I've never actually heard of hairsprings getting weak like a mainspring. Otherwise all the watches of very old age would all be failing now and they're not

  On 11/25/2022 at 9:37 PM, Neverenoughwatches said:

Or could the spring have been too long ? Not vibrated to match the balance wheel.

Expand  

At the time the watch was made hairsprings were available as a separate item. These premade hairsprings are not vibrated to match the balance wheel. There Made to very exacting specifications for timing reasons The stud is exactly at the end of the hairspring there is no room to adjust as that would screw up the specifications of the over coil hairspring.

If you pre-make your hairspring typically with over coils you then have to match the balance wheel to the hairspring. Easy to do in the factory because they have lots of timing screws harder to do in the field as we don't have typically those timing screws. But at the time hairsprings could've been purchased you would've been able to purchase the timing screws.

So basically we have a slow running watch with everything that's perfect the balance wheels the right balance wheel for the watch. Hairsprings don't have serial numbers but they're easy to destroy we see it all the time on this group newbies want to swap hairsprings. So that is a very likely scenario hairsprings been replaced. Somebody just didn't understand that you can't just replace you have timing consequences unless you have enough screws to fix that problem.

 

black rust.JPG

  • Thanks 1
Posted
  On 11/25/2022 at 8:12 PM, Woolshire said:

Okay. I ended up (for now) removing mean time screws, the ones not near the arms. That did it for rate. It is currently +20 s/d dial down and -20 s/d dial up. I will likely end up looking for some smaller gold balance screws to use so I can leave all four mean time screws on the balance. I could reduce weight by filing some of the bigger screws but really don’t want to since they are gold.

Expand  

I thought "gold timing screws", surely not, seems extravagant and what's the point?
But I just had a look at a couple of my "better quality" pocket watches, a 23J Elgin Veritas Grade 453 and a 21J Hamilton Grade 992 - and they do look like rose gold.

So then checking 3x Waltham Riverside (17J and 19J), 2x PS Bartlett - all look rose gold. Only on the lower grade 620 do they look like brass.    

 

Posted
  On 11/26/2022 at 9:34 AM, mikepilk said:

I thought "gold timing screws", surely not, seems extravagant and what's the point?
But I just had a look at a couple of my "better quality" pocket watches, a 23J Elgin Veritas Grade 453 and a 21J Hamilton Grade 992 - and they do look like rose gold.

So then checking 3x Waltham Riverside (17J and 19J), 2x PS Bartlett - all look rose gold. Only on the lower grade 620 do they look like brass.    

 

Expand  

That's interesting mike,  gold is more than double the weight of brass. Thats an extra option for timing.

Posted
  On 11/26/2022 at 9:34 AM, mikepilk said:

"gold timing screws", surely not, seems extravagant and what's the point?

Expand  

In higher grade of American pocket watches you'll find all sorts of gold. Gold timing screws found on some balance wheels. Gold settings for the jewels found in the watch versus using brass on the lower end watches. Some of the wheels are made out of a gold alloy never really nice pretty shiny look to them definitely look different than perhaps. Yes a lot a gold found on some watches. Even the gold colored watches are usually plated with gold.

 

Posted
  On 11/26/2022 at 1:03 PM, JohnR725 said:

In higher grade of American pocket watches you'll find all sorts of gold. 

Expand  

I'd forgotten about that. It's been many years since I've serviced my pocket watches. My Elgin Veritas has rose gold timing screws, jewel settings and the centre wheel is gold plated. I'd forgotten just how nice it is 😃
(jewels at both ends of the barrel, ah !.)

1.thumb.jpg.fd4f1ca95183a9808efcbb985c8f4fb2.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Posted

John asked if I removed the other normal balance screw= Yes. That made watch 700 s/d fast. So, looks like one screw made ~ 1100 sec/d difference!
The “off” mean time screws were removed to see if that was about the correct weight to remove. it was.

As far as rust, hardly any. You pointed out a tiny bit of discoloration on the reg arm, but certainly no rust on the hairspring. 
Gold; this watch has an entire solid gold train, Gold raised jewel settings,  (including for barrel), and gold balance screws. Also, the plates are white-gold flashed with fishscale damakeening….Pretty elaborate for a $200 watch today!

Posted

I have replaced hairsprings on pocket watches, and had to add/remove timing screws. As @JohnR725 mentions "At the time the watch was made hairsprings were available as a separate item. These premade hairsprings are not vibrated to match the balance wheel. "

Posted
  On 11/26/2022 at 2:06 PM, Woolshire said:

but certainly no rust on the hairspring

Expand  

Early on in the discussion the reason I was asking was it looks nice and clean it probably isn't the original spring if the watch itself had water damage. Because often times you will see hairsprings with a little bit of rust damage and yours looks brand-new. As I said early on one were doing diagnostics it would be a clue that this is not the original hairspring.

I snipped out some images from the Elgin 1915 parts guide. As you can see an example of jewels in settings. They come in gold and basically brass or unset ones. Also came in a variety of materials different colors sapphire because there were probably still using natural sapphire they had fully perfected synthetic. So the pretty sapphire with gold settings would go and expensive watches.

Then you can even see they had gold plated screws at one time I guess you could adopt those. And then some information on the timing screw assortment.

 

Elgin screws golden timing.JPG

Elgin escape wheel jewels and settings.JPG

  • Like 1
Posted

I think I’m about done. In the end, I removed two regular balance screws and added two much smaller screws that I found in my “Junque”. Mean time screws remain on the balance. Dial down is 0 s/d and dial up is +7 s/d. The amplitude is impressive for an old pocket watch. Side positions are similar, with amplitude staying above 260.  I would like to get the beat error down to <0.5 but think I’ll leave it it for now.
Thank you all, again!

DEADA065-057C-40DA-BA4D-E4556588F8B9.jpeg

C8EA94FB-1301-4332-8DFB-AF904284B020.jpeg

  • Like 5
Posted
  On 11/27/2022 at 1:15 AM, Woolshire said:

Side positions are similar

Expand  

Similar to one another, or also all a few seconds above zero? If so, you have got a much better result than I was expecting. Really well done and thanks for the updates.

I would be interested to what happens to the timing as the amplitude drops.

Posted
  On 11/27/2022 at 6:45 AM, Klassiker said:

I would be interested to what happens to the timing as the amplitude drops.

Expand  

Normally it shouldn't be a problem unless somebody's opened up the regulator pins. On over coil hairspring is the regulator pins are supposed be as tight as possible as long as they hairspring can slide through the pins. As soon as I get opened up because somebody thinks it's post be like a flat hairspring then you'll get timing discrepancies with amplitude. Often times you will show up as you do multiposition timekeeping in other words as soon as you go to a pendant position you lose amplitude and you'll see it in the timekeeping.

Oh and I see from the pictures up above we are only doing to position timekeeping now? This is where if somebody would rotate the microphone to crown up with get an answer to the timekeeping versus amplitude plus would see if you have any poising errors after playing with the balance wheel.

Posted
  On 11/27/2022 at 1:15 AM, Woolshire said:

I think I’m about done. In the end, I removed two regular balance screws and added two much smaller screws that I found in my “Junque”. Mean time screws remain on the balance. Dial down is 0 s/d and dial up is +7 s/d. The amplitude is impressive for an old pocket watch. Side positions are similar, with amplitude staying above 260.  I would like to get the beat error down to <0.5 but think I’ll leave it it for now.
Thank you all, again!

DEADA065-057C-40DA-BA4D-E4556588F8B9.jpeg

C8EA94FB-1301-4332-8DFB-AF904284B020.jpeg

Expand  

Has been an interesting discussion woolshire, thank you .

Posted

I now have the watch cased and here is a photo of crown up after running for 12 hours. Not quite as good with losing 21 s/d in this position with still decent amplitude, but lower. Crown down, it is +26 s/d. Still near zero rate error in the flat positions.B327AAA1-F639-49C1-8688-A9ADDBE87FC9.thumb.jpeg.416a5a69d74428b8efd8a037ba809394.jpeg

I got lucky to find two screws that just happened to be correct for bringing to time. I am still surprised that one balance screw = 1100 s/d difference. Wow!

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello and welcome to the forum, the best path to take is to get some medium priced tools , look at Cousins UK . They are a material house and are open to all. There medium priced screwdrivers are middle of the road and wil if looked fore serve you well into the foture I have added a little reading for you to help.  TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf Watch_tools_tipps.pdf
    • After another long hiatus (while waiting for truing calipers to arrive), I’ve made some more progress. TRUING IN THE FLAT I was able to use the calipers I purchased to true the wheel in the flat. There’s still a very slight eccentricity in the round, but I’m going to leave it as is. It doesn’t wobble any more and I’m happy with that. Thanks for the tool recommendation @mbwatch. It worked well, though I must say it takes a delicate touch to get the balance between the calipers. Also, my calipers effectively have four different variations based on the orientation of the arms (2 sides, 2 orientations each). Some are more tapered than others, though to what end, I can’t quite tell. My first thought was that flipping them over yields arms that can be used for poising. They are K&D horizontal calipers, btw. OSCILLATION TEST @nevenbekriev @JohnR725 After truing the wheel in the flat, I carefully remounted the hairspring and did your oscillation test. Balance wheel mounted to balance cock, no pallet fork, rotate balance wheel 180 degrees, let it go, and time+count the oscillations. Results as follows for dial down orientation: Duration: 1m 15sec (to full stop) # of oscillations: About 125, though the amplitude of the oscillations decreased significantly, as one might expect I should redo the test in at least two other orientations…Forgot to do that. 🙂  In general, it’s safe to say this watch has a pretty low amplitude, likely for a variety of reasons. I haven’t oiled the balance jewels FWIW…I should probably do that, but I really don’t want to keep disassembling and reassembling the balance. Is it possible to oil those jewels (top and bottom) by just removing the capstones and putting in a tiny amount of oil, with balance in place? I can see how having the pivot in the jewel hole could change how capillary action works, and thus might pull more oil in than desired. However, those capillary forces will be in effect anyway once the balance is inserted. PRACTICE MOVEMENTS @JohnR725 I agree with your sentiment about using practice movements wholeheartedly, and I’ve done that to some degree. The watch I’m currently repairing is for a friend, and she was willing to have me treat it as a “learn-by-doing experience.” With that said,, I probably should have purchased a few more “beaters” before getting to something where I don’t want to muck things up. I’ve still got a couple of those on the bench that I used as donors, and I’ll try to rehabilitate them.
    • Hi, this is the first place I found when looking for advice so I hope someone could advise me.  Im completely new to touching watches but I’ve always wondered how they work.  I’ve bought a cheap movement, an ETA replica to take apart and rebuild.  Im thinking I’ll need some screwdrivers, tweezers, movement holder and a loop? My goal is just to have a go first and see if I enjoy it enough before buying more tools.  Do I buy cheap tools for now and get better quality tools later if I enjoy it like I think I will? or will the cheap tools be a pain and take some of the fun out of it?  With quality tools being relatively expensive I’m unsure what to buy.    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
    • Yeah I have seen 44-56 documented for Elgin 18 size elsewhere. I have the style of gauge that's like a set of feeler gauges and I never noticed before today it is faintly stamped "Elgin". Pictured is the way I have been measuring. I am going to go to a larger jewel than the 42 that had been in there. I recently won an auction on a big set of Fitrite jewels all in the little bottles, to discover that the what's actually in the bottles bears no relation to the chart of sizes printed on the box. In most cases it seems to be all mixed so in fact I have about 24 little bottles and thousands of assorted jewels of all diameters and lengths, which is better than nothing. But since I don't have a micrometer with a table, measuring for the exact diameter will be a big job. Instead I will test a lot of them in the fork slot the same way I measure with the gauge. But this is still the next thing. I have to get the escapement to unlock first.
    • it would be nice to have the exact model of the watch the or a picture so we can see exactly what you're talking about. this is because the definition of Swiss watch could be a variety of things and it be helpful if we could see exactly the watch your dealing with then in professional watch repair at least some professionals they do pre-cleaned watches. In other words the hands and dial come off and the entire movement assembled goes through a cleaning machine sometimes I think a shorter bath perhaps so everything is nice and clean for disassembly makes it easier to look for problems. Then other professionals don't like pre-cleaning because it basically obliterates the scene of the crime. Especially when dealing with vintage watches where you're looking for metal filings and problems that may visually go away with cleaning. Then usually super sticky lubrication isn't really a problem for disassembly and typically shouldn't be a problem on a pallet fork bridge because there shouldn't be any lubrication on the bridge at all as you typically do not oil the pallet fork pivots.  
×
×
  • Create New...