Jump to content

Wittnauer Polara Halfway Working.


Recommended Posts

Anyone know about these watches? It had 2 old 357 batteries in it so I replaced with the same. I can read and set the time, it shows the day but not the month. Would this be something in the movement? I can't really find any technical info on this thing.

post-1223-0-40574000-1435802564_thumb.jp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the 1950's Longines purchased the Wittnauer company and I have searched the net but with no luck. You need to find its operation manual but it,s going to be a difficult search unless one of the forum members has a link. It's serial number might help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem is exacerbated by the fact that, although Wittnauer ran side by side with Longines for many years, they didn't share common factory tooling and machining. So Longines parts don't necessarily fit Wittnauer, and vice versa. It wasn't so much a purchase of the company as Wittnauer movements being made mainly for export to the US, where they were cased, and Longines being aimed more at the European market.

 

This is as I understand it - and the actual history of Wittnauer is a lot more complicated than that! So, to return to the thread topic, getting info on some of these watches is going to be very difficult.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Anyone know about these watches? It had 2 old 357 batteries in it so I replaced with the same. I can read and set the time, it shows the day but not the month. Would this be something in the movement? I can't really find any technical info on this thing.

attachicon.gif20150701_190412-1.jpg

There can be a spacer in the watch so the 357 batteries fit . From the beginning their where proberbly 386 as ro63rto said .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I appreciate the responses guys. I took the entire movement out so I could clean the led screen and check it all out. There were no spacers to accommodate the 357 batteries. Not sure if 386 & 357 are basic same sizes. I could have sworn that I seen somewhere that the watch works like such:

Top right button: Press once for time, hold down for seconds. (Not getting the seconds)

Bottom left button: Press once for month and date. (Just getting date)

Yea, finding tech info is hard. No search results for owners manuals either.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I went and bought some 386 batteries. These were too thin and did not make contact with the caps. So I had to put the 357's back in to make it work. I get time ok. I press both right and left buttons and get seconds. I still only get day for the month and day feature. I'm also wondering if maybe the year and month feature would have disappeared after 2000? Maybe the software in the module does not support it anymore. I went to Wittnauers site and sent them an email on it. They (Bulova), sent me a response asking for a picture. We'll see where this goes.

Thanks for the link ro63rto. I looked at all 3 hughes module settings and mine just doesn't seem to react like there instructions say it should. Lol I'm still thinking there may be a little kink in the module. Other than that, its been keeping perfect time since yesterday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is one of the sites I found while searching today.http://www.timetrafficker.com/watches/led/wittnauer-polara-gold/index.html

It also states no month and 386 cells [emoji20]

I seen this site aldo. It's what got me to thinking about wrong batteries. But the 386 batteries seem to be a little too thin. The screwback caps seem to have to make contact with the batteries in order for it to work. They won't contact the 386 but make good contact with the 357. Odd! Lol
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just my 2 cents worth....

 

Did you "AC" the movement after replacing the batteries?

This is like rebooting a computer, and this is a MUST DO with some quartz movements in order for them to work correctly after a battery replacement.

 

Have a look on the back of the movement and see if there is AC stamped on the circuit cover plate next to an inspection hole with a contact point.  If there is, get your tweezers and "short out" this contact with a grounding point (normally the Cover Plate is the best grounding point). 

 

This will reset the quartz circuit and it should read "12:00" on the display.  Then check to see if all the functions are working.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • hmmmm.... maybe there is a way to skin that cat 🙀 let me think on it... unless anyone else has any ideas? I left the opening in the side of the base and ring quite large to maybe allow you to grip the crown, but appreciate this may not always be possible, especially for small movements where the crown will not extend past the outer wall of the holder. I noticed this also, but after using the holder for a while I noticed that the ring/holder began to wear into shape (rough edges/bumps worn off) and the size became closer to the desired movement OD. Maybe with some trial and error we could add 0.5 mm (??) to the movement OD to allow for this initial bedding-in?
    • Hi nickelsilver, thanks for the great explanation and the links! I'll take a good look in the article.  Especially this is great news to hear! Looking through forums and youtube videos I was informed to 'fist find a case and then fit a movement for it'. But seems that's not the case for pocket watches at least?  I guess I should be looking to find some 'male square bench keys' for now. I was thinking of winding the mainspring using a screwdriver directly, but I found a thread that you've replied on, saying that it could damage the spring. 
    • Murks, The rate and amplitude look OK, and the amplitude should improve once the oils you have used get a chance to move bed-in, also I notice that you are using default 52 degrees for the lift angle, if you get the real lift angle (assuming it's not actually 52) this will change your amplitude - maybe higher, maybe lower. I notice that the beat error is a little high, but not crazy high. At the risk of upsetting the purists, if the balance has an adjustment arm I would go ahead and try and get this <0.3 ms, but if it does not have an adjustable arm then I would probably leave well alone. Just my opinion.
    • Hi everyone on my timegrapher it showing this do a make anymore adjustment someone let me know ?    
    • Maybe I'm over simplifying this and I'm a little late to the discussion, but just by my looking at oil when I use it on a treated cap jewel  the oil stays in one nice bubble, but when I don't it spreads out to the edges of the jewel. I'm not sure (but could well be wrong) but the analogy of a waxed car and rain is accurate in this case, the wax is very hydrophobic and repels the water, however, the process epilame works by is a different physical process based upon cohesion/adhesion (oleophilic) not repulsion (oleophobic)  at least as far as I have read/observed. If one were to use a oleophobic substance equivalent to wax (hydrophobic) then one would need to create a donut shape to fence in the oil, however if one used such a strategy with a epilame which is oleophilic then the oil would sit on the ring of the donut and not in the 'donut hole', exactly where you don't want it. Even if the oil is smeared then the oleophilic epilame should pull it back to the center (see diagram below). Reference For interest the chemical in epilame is 2-(PERFLUOROHEXYL) ETHYL METHACRYLATE, CAS NO: 2144-53-8
×
×
  • Create New...