Jump to content

Waterproof case tubes and crown questions


Recommended Posts

It's my first time working on a case like this. Benrus three star, where the entire crystal/movement/back pushes out from the front.

Two questions: first, the case tube fell out, and when I went to put it back, I realized it can't be pushed in to the shoulder because it interferes with the movement. Is this normal? I ask because pushed in this far, it's loose enough that it falls out.

I'm guessing I should buy a replacement, but I want to get the correct length.

20221013_213443.thumb.jpg.580fb2b7bdf405d12d4ca6caf84553af.jpg

And second: is there supposed to be an o-ring/gasket under the crown if this is supposed to be a waterproof/resistant case? There was some gelatinous goop in there when I disassembled it, which may have been a seal once upon a time. If so, how do I figure out what kind of gasket I need?

20221013_212552.thumb.jpg.a1c12d0ae1b8a531769498486839ee1c.jpg

20220920_234358.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi   Do you have the caliber of the watch.  first question,  is the case tube the origional is the case hole worn. To get a replacement tube you are able to buy from cousins an assortment, that means many more than you will need so measure the case hole, Looks worn,  and order single tube if possible. They are usually a friction fit.  or the alternative is to refit the one you have using a suitable loctite cement and set it to the correct depth.  Again you can buy gaskets but probably best to replace the stem and crown as a pair, crown will come with seal in place. You will no doubt receive more advice so pick it over and decide which option is best for you.... cheers

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, watchweasol said:

the caliber of the watch

Thank you for the reply! The movement is a Benrus CF1 / ETA 1256. As for the case, this is all I know:

20221014_095141.thumb.jpg.2114ee27861016a69bf72c09e77c37b8.jpg

 

4 hours ago, watchweasol said:

set it to the correct depth

This is what I don't know. Is the correct depth supposed to be seated firmly against the shoulder of the case tube? I'm assuming it needs to be far enough out to seal on the crown o-ring, but I don't know how to determine that. This is new territory for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi press the crown on to the tube then push the tube into the case  and see  1, if the tube neck protrudes into the case, 2 does the the shoulder on the tube meet up with the case.    I suspect that the tube fits up to the shoulder and the tube neck should not interfear with fitting the movement.   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is the Benrus style where the lug-less case and crystal pops out of the outer bezel as a waterproof unit. I've seen situations where this removed "capsule" without bezel/band is mistakenly listed online as some type of tiny pocket watch...

That design will leave the stem and tube extending out from the case with enough room for the bezel ring to fit in between, and middle of the tube often has a narrow section. I think the outer shoulder on your tube is meant to rest against the installed bezel ring, not the case. Here is a picture of a few that you can compare to yours.

bencases.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you both for the replies. This first picture above is as far in as it can go when the movement is installed--I pushed it in after the movement was in, and that's as far as it was allowed to go. Esslinger lists a lot of sizes, so I'll do some measuring and take my best guess at it.

image.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • You often see the term used on old watch part boxes.  Staffs for bracelet watches, timing washers for bracelet wstches etc.
    • The Boro has changed quite a lot over the last 20 years, and not for the better. I actually moved out of the town 15 years ago to a small village not far away. Thanks for the pdf! Looks a great read. I'll get it printed today and put it on my work bench!
    • Not having all the fancy equipment, this is a way I came up with. I never said it was the best, the most ideal or the safest way. Working on balances is always a delicate task whereby full concentration & common sense should prevail. I was well aware of the "dangers" / short comings involved, hence my "warnings", as quoted above. The balance wheel of the Omega was nice true, flat and one could clearly see how much gap there was left before the grinding wheel would touch the balance wheel. I stopped when the generously applied diamond paste started to touch the rim of the balance wheel, which turned out to be with a seat thickness left of 0.1mm. Tapping the remainder of the staff out went easy and flawless. My idea of penning this article was to show/share a way which, in my case, perfectly succeeded. If deemed to risky, or if the balance wheel is not true or has a wobble, other methods have to be followed.
    • I loved his explanation of a teardown 😅 Ex military Richard Perrett, pretty knowledgeable guy.
    • I also see a bit of danger for the wheel, at least you have to keep away from it and may get a too thick rest ring. My rest rings are about 0.05 mm. Better way would be a grinding wheel touching the staff with its circumference. Frank
×
×
  • Create New...