Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone, hope you are all well.I am having problem with this French clock as soon as i put the pallets into the pivot where this adjusting screw is, sorry don't know the name of this part the train will not turn, i found this out after starting with the barrel and working up the train to the pallets if someone has turned this screw and i hasten to add it wasn't  me,would this be the cause of the problem and how do i go about rectifying this.

Thank you.

IMG_20220910_103518495_MP.jpg

IMG_20220910_103618197_MP.jpg

Posted

Ok so i have found out what that slot is for with the pivot hole in, changing the depth of the pallets which is set at the factory. So if that is causing the problem is it possible for someone with limited experience to correct.

Posted

Hi Willow  as you look at the screw there is a slot in the back plate align the screw slot with this and then try again. normally these screws are factory set and do not need adjusting as the depth is set up. If some one has turned it it begs the question ,why,  the "Brocot" escapement is usually very good unless its been worked on by some one.  You have basically to reset the depth on the lockings on the pallet, check the pallet surfaces are not worn or chipped and highly polished (mirror finish). Fit the pallet anchor assembly and wit a couple of turns on the spring check the action and adjust untill it locks and unlocks then try the clock for running. Might take a bit of time going bit by bit.  all the best   

  • Thanks 1
Posted

The depth adjuster will get moved if some silly bugger has been messing about with the pallet stones. 

watchweasol is right on the button with this one. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Hi willow, just be careful when moving the adjuster they are usually very tight primarily because they are factory,  set use a good well fitting screwdriver to avoid slippage. As you see the screw adjuster is circular and the bearing is on the side any adjustment will go up/down in an arc. If as we suspect its been moved the lateral and vertical positions have been compromised. put a small dot in the position it is now and when refitted check the action and adjust accordingly.   all the best.

Hi willow  have a look at this bit of reading might be of some help.

https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrIAX8ZKx9jqRAApUF3Bwx.;_ylu=Y29sbwMEcG9zAzYEdnRpZAMEc2VjA3Ny/RV=2/RE=1663015834/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.abbeyclock.com%2faeb7.html/RK=2/RS=jZ9ZEnYKNW2O2x8OI7jRBYPbnOU-

  • Thanks 1
Posted
17 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi willow, just be careful when moving the adjuster they are usually very tight primarily because they are factory,  set use a good well fitting screwdriver to avoid slippage. As you see the screw adjuster is circular and the bearing is on the side any adjustment will go up/down in an arc. If as we suspect its been moved the lateral and vertical positions have been compromised. put a small dot in the position it is now and when refitted check the action and adjust accordingly.   all the best.

Hi willow  have a look at this bit of reading might be of some help.

https://r.search.yahoo.com/_ylt=AwrIAX8ZKx9jqRAApUF3Bwx.;_ylu=Y29sbwMEcG9zAzYEdnRpZAMEc2VjA3Ny/RV=2/RE=1663015834/RO=10/RU=http%3a%2f%2fwww.abbeyclock.com%2faeb7.html/RK=2/RS=jZ9ZEnYKNW2O2x8OI7jRBYPbnOU-

Thanks for that watchweasol great bit of information pallets unlocking now, clock running just needs a bit of adjusting as it stops after  5 mins but making progress .

Posted

If it is stopping because of the escapement check all the pivot holes for the escapement, pivots and burr on the escape wheel and the angle  of escapement the pallets also need to be smooth with no marks or signs of wear. I can't tell by the photos but many clocks with this type of escapement the crutch is friction tight, so it has to be tight enough for it to work, too lose and it will stop, to tight and it won't set its self in beat. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Hi willow   with it being a deadbeat(Graham) escapement (no recoil) it has to be right, The diagnostic path as laid down by Old Hippy has to be followed and all points checked. A recoil escapement gets a bit of help from the recoil and can overcome little problems like slightly out of beat or locking. Its a question of patience and dilligence.   all rhe best

  • Thanks 1
Posted
22 hours ago, oldhippy said:

If it is stopping because of the escapement check all the pivot holes for the escapement, pivots and burr on the escape wheel and the angle  of escapement the pallets also need to be smooth with no marks or signs of wear. I can't tell by the photos but many clocks with this type of escapement the crutch is friction tight, so it has to be tight enough for it to work, too lose and it will stop, to tight and it won't set its self in beat. 

Hi oldhippy, the crutch on this clock screws on and off, away at the moment will check when i get back thanks.

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...