Jump to content

AS 1287 was going great until...


Recommended Posts

I'm not at home but I'm 99% sure this is it, except it's got a different top plate in that it doesn't bolt directly onto the machine but rather looks like a sheetmetal table sitting atop grommets or something, and mine has a selector switch instead of a toggle. know anything about these things? We used to have four of them in the shop-only two worked. I got one and co-worker got the other. our electrician took one home and fixed it. i know zip about these things.

Mag-Mate demagnitizer.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/11/2022 at 11:27 AM, LittleWatchShop said:

What does it do to a hairspring??

oh man...i've never done a hairspring on it. all ive used it for is my tweezers, screwdrivers, screws and such. back in the old machine shop it was screwdrivers, wrenches and small parts turned in the lathe or machined on a mill.  I've never had the opportunity for a hairspring. now you have me wondering-is there such a thing as a too powerful demag device? it sometimes is quite a bit noisy, wondering if the table mounts or grommets are worn out? just a hobbyist and i've only been into repairing for almost three years. still a noobie.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/11/2022 at 3:41 AM, MechanicMike said:

Mag-Mate demagnitizer.jpg

Like the label says, that is an industrial / machine shop demagnatizer. It's not "right" for watch repair also because a blue box cost less and is much smaller. That being said, most of watch faults are mechanic, not due to magnetization.

 

On 9/6/2022 at 3:49 AM, mbwatch said:

I hastily tried to get the setting lever spring on before the yoke spring popped out and lost BOTH of the tiny screws that hold it down out of my tweezers.

Why hastily? You need to work calm and patience, in a quiet environment, in the right position, arms supported, driver dressed, the right magnification. Most beginners totally neglect these basics then complain about loosing or breaking parts. But watch repair is not like swapping a tire.

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, jdm said:

Why hastily? You need to work calm and patience, in a quiet environment, in the right position, arms supported

Got all those things. But "hastily" as in "secure this spring loaded part tonight" instead of "leave it for later in the week" wherein the partially assembled movement might be disturbed by a kid or a rowdy dog or my own clumsy bump while moving it to a safe location, or any number of other things that can happen when a hobbyist can only setup an ideal and isolated workspace incrementally. I count myself lucky to at least have access to a variable-height desk left over from covid work-at-home, that is deep enough to be able to work with supported elbows.

At no point would I relate this to anything like swapping a tire. It is, to me, a hobby I entered into only after years of interest and research, planning for purchasing essentials, and now, practice with no illusions that any difficult jobs or valuable pieces wouldn't be better left to a professional watchmaker. I am not here to complain about losing parts (despite using exactly those words), but to soften the sting of a frustrating mistake I caused myself, it can be helpful to commiserate in good humor with a few other like-minded amateurs who've been in the same place recently, or in years past.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, mbwatch said:

it can be helpful to commiserate in good humor with a few other like-minded amateurs who've been in the same place recently, or in years past.

Seems to me you're on the right path to do well and get quickly to the point where accidents will become rare and then non-existent. The point IMHO is recognizing the typical bad patterns (in terms of tools, eyes and hands usage) which lead to incidents, and never repeat them because of laziness or distraction. Any humor or serious discussion you will want to have on this or other subjects is of course welcome.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Now I'm completely confused, it would appear that the epilame  is oleophobic  as @Marc states: This oleophobic  behavior can be seen as beading of the droplet (as above) which stops the oil spreading which is supported by what we observe on treated/untreated cap stones (for example), but as @VWatchie states this should make the drops more mobile, and not less mobile which is the opposite of what we want. In fact this beading and high mobility are desirable properties in things like smart phone covers, see below.  I am fairly sure that epilame doesn't make the droplets more mobile, so maybe its a strange coating with dual properties that are both oleophobic and cohesive/adhesive resulting in low mobility?? This may explain the high price??  
    • The description there is exactly how it's done, and it's very well written!
    • Would it be correct to say that the stronger the mainspring, the thicker the oil should be? So for a fusee mainspring, should a thick grease be used?
    • I started on pocket watches as they are easier to work on than wristwatches. Many had gold cases, which is why there are so many movements for sale. I was always on the look out for cases, for as Nickelsilver says,  a 16s movement will fit any 16s case* (with tweaks to the stem). I also started hand winding mainsprings, before I had winders. It can be done without damage, but it's quite hard on the fingers.  But you can make homemade winders, see here      * some movements, eg "railroad grade", have a setting lever on the edge of the  dial at about the 1 -2 o'clock, so need a special case.
    • Ok, on your movement plate you can see a star wheel on the right, this is the silencer, if you rotate the hands by hand through each hour you will see that eventually it acts upon the cam which moves the lever and in turn lifts the lifting lever thus stopping the chimes and strike working.  What you need to do is get your clock to 11pm and also turn the star until the cam lifts the lever and stops the action. The star wheel has a small spring that gives it a positive action between each movement, so once at 11pm you can rotate the star wheel around by hand until it stops the action at 11pm. Hope this makes sense to you.
×
×
  • Create New...