Jump to content

Do New Quartz Movements Need Lubrication?


Recommended Posts

I have replaced several quartz movements over the years and always wondered if the movements come prelubricated from the factory.

I've asked my mentor before and his  answer was, "If it looks dry, then lubricate it".

And that even confuses me more. Aren't we supposed to clean and degrease before adding more oil?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently read (somewhere) that Seagull mechanical movements ship from the factory dry and require lubrication.

I don't know about quartz movements. I suspect that it depends on the manufacturer of the movement.

It seems that your mentor's advice is sound. Assuming your "new-from-the-factory" movement has been lubricated, there is no reason not to clean it and lubricate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

let's look at this another way? Obviously were not the buyer of the movements originally in other words were not buying from the factory. If we were casing up watches then obviously we want the watch lubricated because that would be bad if they were dry. So is there a situation where you would sell dry watch movements? You can't really use them for casing up because there dry.

okay suppose they were no lubrication sealed up in little dry packets they would last forever conceivably. But it basically have to disassemble the entire watch to lubricated. In other words you can't just put oil even on a quartz watch. Yes there is visible pivots but if you have a calendar is pivots under the calendar disc. What about the keyless mechanism in its under a calendar you not to get to that. Mechanical watch what about the breaking grease of its dry for the barrel arbor.

I suspect all the movements were lubricated a lot of it would be how old they are and how they were packaged. The Swiss with their individual move packets they would be fine but if their bulk packed and not a lot of demand for that movements how long has it been sitting wherever it was sitting.

Then as far as the Chinese go quality control I think is still an issue for a lot of their stuff. Even if it's supposed to be lubricated it may or may not be lubricated.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not knowing what movement you are talking about or having the ability to know what materials that manufacturer has chosen to make a particular movement or part out of.  It's really hard to say whether or not it really needs to be lubricated.  Some materials are self lubricating and will run dry quite happily for quite a long time.  Those types of materials are fairly expensive but the quantity required per movement would be quite small.  Cheep quartz watchs should probably be lubricated.  Higher end jeweled watches should probably also be lubricated because of traditional manufacturing and servicing philosophies.  Middle of the road quartz watchs may use exotic materials for production and servicing concerns.  It's very hard to say without actually knowing or reviewing the service literature of each and every watch movement.

Oil is cheep, the time to apply it properly is not.  Right or wrong, I have oiled every quartz watch that I have reassembled.

Best of luck.

Shane 

Edited by Shane
Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMO it depends on the quality of the quartz movement you are fitting. Some quartz movements have jewels and are the same as mechanical movements but are powered by a circuit board and a battery. These certainly need lubrication.But the cheap Chinese style movements such as produced by Miyota then No.. 

Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, clockboy said:

But the cheap Chinese style movements such as produced by Miyota then No.. 

I'm aware of this. I'm talking about jewelled movements like ETA 955  ETA 976, EBEL 157....

Are these movements already prelubed? It doesn't make sense to have to take apart a brand new movement to lubricate it and run the risk of damaging something. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it is how they are bought.  Some I have had come with a PS tag, pre sealed and an extra cost (reputably) factory lubricated and sealed. Then others come without the PS tag and are in a small plastic box and are some times quite a bit cheaper than the PS type, these will require lubrication as they are stored un sealed.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
    • When building a new Watch I have tended to use a file to remove the remnants of dial feet that are not needed as many dials come with four feet to accomodate different movements, but this can be a bit messy so now I use this with a great deal more precision as you can use an appropriate bit for the job and keep it very localised.      
×
×
  • Create New...