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Posted

I have two omega watches in need, at some point the dials just started moving, (after I touched it) strange I know, both feed both dials, I'm sure that's not the only problems, thing the day settings got a wee wet, I see some degradation (it's rusty) don't think I can do this at home but my question is cost to remount the feet. I know that it can be done like when the tabs of battery's are zapped to the tops, but who does this is it expensive, or should I just get a replacement dial, there like $60 - $100

Posted

That's really interesting, could anyone explain what's happening, how that works? Also wondering how you'd go about lining the new feet up perfectly enough. 

Posted

If it came off, you see the old spot. But that's sure to be a trick to get them aligned

Posted

I believe it's using an electric charge to perform the soldering, it's called resistance soldering, I think,

Traditional soldering irons use a heated metal tip to melt solder into electrical joints. This concept works great, but it can have some drawbacks. If the iron is too large or powerful, it can easily overheat the joint and destroy the board or components being soldered.

Its also somewhat dangerous to have a chunk of metal sitting around at a flaming 250-400+ degrees. People can burn themselves, and sometimes others, like that one time in my basement. And once in the garage. And maybe a few times in the attic. Not that anyone can prove anything.

The science behind the Cold Heat concept for soldering is not magic. Its not alien technology. Its not even that mysterious. The scientific principles behind the tool have been used in everything from light bulbs to space heaters to building cars. It's all about the resistance. Check out this link

http://rrmodelcraftsman.com/toolchest/cm_craftsmantoolchest_05.php

Posted

Years ago you could buy a dial feet kit. It had assorted sizes of dial feet and a type of glue. Never used such a thing. It might be a cheap way of repair. The problem I can see is this. Getting rid of the old broken feet, some sort of filing I suppose but this will mark the underneath of the dial. Also making sure you have them in the correct places. I had accounts with Southern Watch & Clock Suppliers from Orpington Kent and Mahoney Associates Bristol, This would be back in the 80's don't know if they are still going. 

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    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
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    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
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