Jump to content

Vienna clock

Willow

By Willow
in All Things Clocks

 Share

Recommended Posts

Willow WRT Addict

Willow

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone, hope you are all well my latest buy H.Endler Vienna clock, 

there are 3 parts that came with it which have a thread on them but i can't see where they screw into.

Should be the last picture any ideas where they go ,thanks

IMG-20220816-WA0015.jpeg

IMG_20220816_143615482_MP.jpg

IMG_20220816_143421914_MP.jpg

IMG_20220816_143433167_MP.jpg

IMG_20220816_143446461_MP.jpg

IMG_20220816_144113330_MP.jpg

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted (edited)

The odd one is normally used to hold the movement to the bracket which screws to the movement. You should have two brackets stabilizers to hold the clock to the wall so when winding the movement doesn't slip on the wall. Here is a photo of them complete. 

s-l1600 (1).jpg

Edited by oldhippy
  • Like 2
Willow WRT Addict

Willow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Willow, were these screws loose in the case ?    You have picked up a nice clock there, weight driven Vienna.

Hi watchweasol yes the screws were loose just can't see where they go, unless they don't belong to this clock 

9 hours ago, oldhippy said:

The odd one is normally used to hold the movement to the bracket which screws to the movement. You should have two brackets stabilizers to hold the clock to the wall so when winding the movement doesn't slip on the wall. Here is a photo of them complete. 

s-l1600 (1).jpg

Hi oldhippy, yes there is two brackets already on the clock at the bottom of the case which i have screwd to the wall on the left side of the case, and the odd one there is already to screws that go through the bracket and screw into the movement to secure it do you think they could be from another clock.

Forgot to mention one of the screw you show in your image oldhippy one of mine is longer then the other why would that be or are they from different clocks?

 

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

There are many different ways of fixing these movements to the brackets inside the cases of these clocks . I's seem some where the screws are about 3 inches long with flat round brass heads. Others just held in place with pins. Could be they don't belong to that clock. 

  • Thanks 1
Willow WRT Addict

Willow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, oldhippy said:

There are many different ways of fixing these movements to the brackets inside the cases of these clocks . I's seem some where the screws are about 3 inches long with flat round brass heads. Others just held in place with pins. Could be they don't belong to that clock. 

Yes that's what i think they belong to something else, like i said the screws are there to hold the movement in place.

Well it's ticking away ok but the hammer is missing the gong so i will adjust that and leave it running until i get round to servicing it, would you recommend changing the line for the weights.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • TimeWerks
      Omega sweep second pinion friction spring - correct tension IS important

      By TimeWerks · Posted

      Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • caseback
      Clock newbie

      By caseback · Posted

      After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • JohnR725
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • VWatchie
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • JohnR725
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...