Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Title says it all--I have a vintage Bulova 11AC (manual wind, 17j) movement that I cleaned and re-assembled today and it times very well in DU, DD, CL, CR, CU positions (amplitude is between 250/210 in all positions with a beat error >.5 in the above positions). Lastly, it's timing pretty consistently in all the above positions (running about 60 seconds fast but I usually let it run for one full wind before making any corrections)

However it CD position, it maintains amplitude but jumps to a +5.0 beat error.

I've let it settle in for a couple of hours since re-assembly and re-oiling. I did inspect every part under my microscope before re-installing, and hand cleaned the movement (my ultrasonic is out being repaired). So on the surface I'm pretty confident that the parts are clean and no obvious imperfections.  

I've included most of the timegrapher shots, most importantly the first one, i..e,  the one that is way off crown down.

Levine98

P1020031.JPG

P1020033.JPG

P1020034.JPG

P1020035.JPG

Edited by Levine98
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Levine98 said:

Title says it all--I have a vintage Bulova 11AC (manual wind, 17j) movement that I cleaned and re-assembled today and it times very well in DU, DD, CL, CR, CU positions (amplitude is between 250/210 in all positions with a beat error >.5 in the above positions). Lastly, it's timing pretty consistently in all the above positions (running about 60 seconds fast but I usually let it run for one full wind before making any corrections)

However it CD position, it maintains amplitude but jumps to a +5.0 beat error.

I've let it settle in for a couple of hours since re-assembly and re-oiling. I did inspect every part under my microscope before re-installing, and hand cleaned the movement (my ultrasonic is out being repaired). So on the surface I'm pretty confident that the parts are clean and no obvious imperfections.  

I've included most of the timegrapher shots, most importantly the first one, i..e,  the one that is way off crown down.

Levine98

P1020031.JPG

P1020033.JPG

P1020034.JPG

P1020035.JPG

In the first photo the readings are all over the place, escapement issue ? Most noteably the amplitude is way up as well as the beat error increase. Another inspection of the escapement and running of the balance assembly. How is the hs looking when running ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If there’s a beat error in one position that’s vastly different from the other positions, I would look at the hairspring shape, and whether it’s rubbing against something, or out of round. That has a tendency to cause a beat error when the hairspring is in a specific position.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is showing 60° more amplitude CD than dial down. I suspect that the timegrapher reading could be in error (weak signal?). This could be causing incorrect amplitude and beat error being shown. (Similar to the problem I think I'm having in my recent post!)

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

In the first photo the readings are all over the place, escapement issue ? Most noteably the amplitude is way up as well as the beat error increase. Another inspection of the escapement and running of the balance assembly. How is the hs looking when running ?

I studied the hairspring under a microscope while running (usually the first thing I do). Appears to run flat and without any visible distortion while swinging. Re it does seem to run high in CD position but this imposture captured it at the highest — normally closer to 250-260 when it settles down.

8 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Excessive side shake on balance staff.  

I’ll check later today—thanks for the suggestion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

I think you will be able to visually see that in CD it's likely running a much lower amplitude- like half the 290. The machines sometime double the amplitude when things are noisy (like a guard pin rubbing, hint hint).

I just went through the checklist—will challenge my skills for sure—I’ve fouled more balance wheel and hairsprings trying to sort out issues (usually a non-flat hairspring) than actually fixed any—but I guess you have to jump in the pool if you’re going to learn to swim….. thanks 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I let it run through the night then gave it a full re-wind. Seems to have resolved itself. I'm going to assume oil hadn't set in or worked itself off some part of the escapement.

As before, running well in the other positions. 

Thanks to all (as a hobbyist, it's nice to have one work after servicing). 

 

P1020038.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Levine98 said:

I just went through the checklist—will challenge my skills for sure—I’ve fouled more balance wheel and hairsprings trying to sort out issues (usually a non-flat hairspring) than actually fixed any—but I guess you have to jump in the pool if you’re going to learn to swim….. thanks 

Absolutely levine, you cant learn if you dont do mate 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • For those who are, curious I broke out the macro lens and took a few shots.  I'm attaching four of them: Image 1 is from the watchmaker's side and generally shows the problem area. Image 2 is a detail view of the offending dial foot hole (called out with the green circle), the tip of the offending screw (orange arrow) and the blue line indicates the approximate position of what's left of the head of the screw (determined by using an oiler as a feeler gauge to transfer that measurement to the visible portion of the plate.) Image 3 is looking down the screw hole you can see the head of the broken screw at the bottom. Image 4 is the same, but with less contrast to give a better appreciation of the condition of that end of the screw. I can almost convince myself that I can see the remains of the screw slot in the head, but I have to use alot of imagination in that exercise. Heard and understood.  There does appear to be a steel locating pin that can be seen in the lower, right center of Image 1 (right "above" the oval shaped slot that is to the left of where the pinion/clutch parts of the keyless works nestle into the plate.)  As I don't see a way to remove that I'd have to keep it out of the solution and have even contemplated dropping a little paraffin on it to give it a "rain coat" of sorts.  As I missed that before I did the closeup photos, I feel that I'm going to be looking at this plate in much greater detail to see if there anything else I might have missed. The screw assortments seem like a good acquisition.  The eBay seller who has the donor movements I was looking at never replied so I may just take a chance and get one of those as well a screw assortment.  They do seem like they'd be handy.  I have to confess that the idea of fabricating the needed screws appears to some deep part of my soul, I also have to confess that I do not yet have either the equipment, or the skill to use it.  Perhaps one day, but that day has not arrived (and I have alot of pricey bits and bobs that I will likely need to get along the way.) I thought about this, but the dial foot screw doesn't seem to be wide enough to get the thing out if I could advance it into the hole.  I suppose that I could try and take it out in pieces (advance it as far as it will go, get in there with some sort of saw, take a piece off, walk it forward again, take another piece, etc) but that seems like alot of risk to the main plate. I need to examine the other screw to ensure it doesn't have a shoulder or something that would prevent me from doing something like that.  However, all that said, I've been unable to get the thing to move at all. In general, this whole piece feels like someone had it before me, did a bad job of working on it and ultimately just bunged it all back together in a haphazard way and passed it on to be someone else's problem.
    • Bulova Accutron 2181 - had an open coil I managed to bring it back into life. Longines 9L - not serviced just pics   Eterna-Matic Centenaire "61" - 1438U - not serviced just pics. Longines Cal 431 - not serviced just pics Lemania Cal 4650 - not serviced, just pics. Risieres Felsa 690 - not serviced, just pics. Felca Cal ETA 1080 - not serviced, just pics.
    • attached is the tech /parts sheet. .   Can one ask how come it’s full of water. After being told that the waterproofing was not guaranteed.  Problem being electronics don’t mix especially withe the power source being attached.  You may be lucky but I should look out for a replacement movement or working donor to rob the movement from. C720.pdf
    • I thought this may be "right" forum to post this. After 7 months out in Switzerland I got my Navitimer back from Breitling. I had sent it off since its 20 years old to have a complete overhaul done... Nothing major wrong, but I did notice this seconds sundial skipping thingy.... $1300 later and 7 months later, I notice the 'skips' are still here unless the chronometer is engaged. I would think this is likely the hand binding up and maybe clearance with the dial, but at any rate Im interested as to whether this is something I should be returning the watch to Breitling for and insisting on being fixed. See below - 1 minute or so of regular running and then 1 minute with the chronograph engaged.  
    • A friend of mine just gave me an old pocket watch. The case is in very bad condition but the movement itself seems to be in a quite good shape. I can't identify which movement is this, since I have to find a missing winding stem. I attach few photos in a case somebody would be able to give some hints.  Thank's folks
×
×
  • Create New...