Jump to content

Hairspring Made of Blue Carbon Steel

PostwarO27
 Share

Recommended Posts

PostwarO27 Watch Enthusiast

PostwarO27

Posted
Posted

I'm working on a vintage Omega 620 for my wife which had a bad hairspring along with needing a new mainspring and a lower balance shock (incabloc) setting. I purchased a donor movement that had a good balance, and the setting I needed...the mainspring I simply purchased from CasKer.

The steel of the hairspring is the blue carbon steel and not the white steel that I've seen in every watch I took apart in my short time tinkering with watches. When did Omega stop using the blue carbon steel springs?   I don't want to put in a hairspring if its not the proper type steel.

 

The movement it came out of is from 1968.

Thanks

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

Hairspring's grade is what matters, I am not sure if the color indicates the grade. 

Traditionally hairsprings in Omega are high grade I think grade or No 1 , there are No2 up to five I believe.

 

  • Like 1
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

In 1968 Omega would have used a Nivarox spring and monometalic balance. Nivarox supplied springs either white or blue, in various grades as Joe mentioned, but still an alloy very different than carbon steel. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, PostwarO27 said:

 I don't want to put in a hairspring if its not the proper type steel.

It's not like you really have a choice here? Hairsprings are usually not replaceable usually come with the balance wheel. Then as others have pointed out just because it's blue in color doesn't mean that it's steel.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
PostwarO27 Watch Enthusiast

PostwarO27

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Hairsprings are usually not replaceable usually come with the balance wheel.

That's what I did...I took the entire balance, cock and all from the donor movement along with the lower shock setting.  But when I saw the color of the steel, I'm no longer sure if the hairspring and balance wheel from the donor is the proper match.

If the monometallic metal that Joe mentioned did come in white and blue, I'm comfortable with that and will proceed with the rebuild to get it on a time-grapher.

 

 

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

@PostwarO27   If you are anything as terrible with dynamic poising as I am, then we can't tell a Chronograde oscilator apart from a regular one anyway. I go ahead and fix the watch with what you got, it'll run accurate. I mean you don't plan to send the piece in for COSC approval do you? 

 

2 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

@PostwarO27   If you are anything as terrible with dynamic poising as I am, then we can't tell a Chronograde oscilator apart from a regular one anyway. I go ahead and fix the watch with what you got, it'll run accurate. I mean you don't plan to send the piece in for COSC approval do you? 

 

Oh just noticed you scavanged the whole balance complete from the donor, its just adjusting for various positions then.

  • Like 1
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • VWatchie
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • MikeEll
      Help with repairing a quartz clock

      By MikeEll · Posted

      I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • watchweasol
      Oldhippy

      By watchweasol · Posted

      Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • SwissSeiko
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By SwissSeiko · Posted

      Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • Poljot
      Broken watch stem in watch crown

      By Poljot · Posted

      If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...