Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

Did aerospace engineering at uni but now I run a pharmaceutical company, a firework company and a farm. Wanted a rewarding hobby to keep me entertained during the evenings which has led me to pocket watches and this forum. Just starting out so will be a learning curve 🙂

Cheers, Charlie

Posted

A thanks to @watchweasol who posted the Illustrated Glossary on another intro thread. A very useful read. Have set myself a budget of £500 to start with, so lets see where that gets me for starters. So far I've gone for;

Bergeon 30080-A10 set of 10 drivers

Bergeon movement holder 4040-P

Cheap china hand pusher set

Carson Unisex's CP-60 Pro Series MagniVisor

Bergeon 30102-P04 Assortment of 4 Oilers

Cheap china oil cups

Moebius 9415

Moebius Microgliss Oil D5

Moebius 9010 Synthetic

Molykote DX 

Brass Tweezer Set of 5

Couple of ultrasonic mesh cleaning baskets (already have a machine)

Cheap china parts tray with cover

Mid range hand removal leavers

Lump of Rodico

Anything else that I'm missing that's obvious? Also purchased a few 404 pocket watches off of the e of bay to play with and get to know my way around the basics.

Cheers, Charlie

Posted

Hi  Thats an impressive list for starters, It should take you far before the aquisition  of more tools.  You might consider a case knife, glass fitting tool, I take it you already have access  to timing software, ie  Watch-O-Scope, Tg,  PCTM.  Which will run on your computer but will need a pickup.  I use W.O.Scope whith an amplifier and pizo pickup and it works well. All instructions are on the net.

Posted

Many thanks, I'd totally overlooked a case knife!

I've been looking at glass fitting tools and in my own mind, from what I've read, I'd be better off saving up and looking for a used Robur press rather than one of these cheap Chinese things. Would any of the experts concur?

Same with a main spring winder. I doubt I'll be able to find a used Bergeon, but if I can, Happy days. Otherwise I was going to buy a handle and then the winders as and when I needed that size. As I'm only looking at pocket watches at the moment, I can't think I'll need a whole set! Would I?

A friend has a MTG-1900 that I've "borrowed" 🙂 No idea why he has one and I don't really think he knows why he bought it but I'm going to go with possession is 9/10ths of the law 🙂

Thanks again for your input.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the warm welcomes 🙂

Looking to sign up to the courses and had a couple of questions on the best practice movement;

I can only find Seagull ST3620's on ebay, are these the same as the recommended Seagull 3620's?

Should the second be at 6 or 9 to match what's used in the videos?

Many thanks, Charlie

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...