Jump to content

Hobby Watch Maker


Recommended Posts

Hi Sendikumar, if I remember well, the minute hand is inserted in the gap between the hour wheel and the cannon pinion or rather on the cannon pinion (I haven't worked on one of those for some time now. It depends on the hands you are getting and yes, it looks a little high but it might be the way the picture was taken. Just get a dial as Geo suggested and check that you have enough of the hour wheel out and clearance for the hour and minute hands.

 

Also, don't cut the stem until the very end when you are ready to give the watch as finished: that's the last thing you would do. Also, I wouldn't cut the hour wheel because of many factors, one that come to mind is finish and another is "even", if you screw up you will be in a real fix to fit the hour hand properly if at all. Remember the hands tool stops on the rim of the hour wheel (on top). That surface should be even or the hand will be twisted and you will have to adjust by sight...it still can be done but not very professional. I 'd rather get a shorter wheel or a longer canon pinion...they are all the same for that movement regardless of country of origin.

 

Good luck with your project!

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I am bit busy with my work , with computers creating software, in tight deadlines. However I ordered dial and it will be ready in couple of weeks time will start again.

:)

For sure I will post lot of questions and queries

.

:)

Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah Sendil

Work - that horrible four letter word that stops the fun in the pursuit of income.  I well remember that from pre-retirement times before my hair turned grey and then fell out.

Hope your ventures are successful and I look forward to the next posting.

Cheers,

Vic

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Vich said:

I well remember that from pre-retirement times before my hair turned grey and then fell out.

I'm there now Vich, glad you read my future! Four more years....I can't wait!

Cheers,

Bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...