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Installing 2836 hands on NH35?

panchoskywalker
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panchoskywalker Watch Enthusiast

panchoskywalker

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Posted

Hello my friends, I wish you all a happy new year!

I have some hands that I had planned to use on a 2836 movement but I am considering now swapping to NH35.

Hands size are like this:

2836: 1.50, .90, .25

Nh35: 1.50, .90, .21

So the hour and minute hands will work but the second hand hole is bigger.

Will it work on NH35? Is it just a matter of pressing it a little harder? Is there a special tool that allows to press the .25 to .21?

 

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, panchoskywalker said:

Will it work on NH35? Is it just a matter of pressing it a little harder? Is there a special tool that allows to press the .25 to .21?

If your seconds hand bought for a 28xx is .25, then is too large for a NH3x with a .21 pivot. You can try closing its tube a little with a pin vice, but no guarantee that will come out well.

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Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted
On 1/4/2022 at 2:31 PM, panchoskywalker said:

Hello my friends, I wish you all a happy new year!

I have some hands that I had planned to use on a 2836 movement but I am considering now swapping to NH35.

Hands size are like this:

2836: 1.50, .90, .25

Nh35: 1.50, .90, .21

So the hour and minute hands will work but the second hand hole is bigger.

Will it work on NH35? Is it just a matter of pressing it a little harder? Is there a special tool that allows to press the .25 to .21?

 

Hi. I was just routing around the site looking for a topic to catch my interest and came across your question. Thought I'd try to give a little help as this same problem crops up with me occasionally when I encounter a missing or damaged watch hand. You may have this sorted already but I will continue  in case not. Firstly I will state that I am very much an amateur, but still have a modicum of experience and think logically. So I wouldn't  advise trying to force watch parts of any kind, the insides of a watch can be very delicate especially the train wheels and thier pivots. In particular the shaft that the second hand attaches to is fairly long and thin and if a subdial second hand is an extremely thin and delicate shaft, also jewel movement or damage may result if forced pressure is used on any particular train wheel shaft. If the hole of the hand you are attaching is too small, then this could be carefully made larger also known as broaching. This is done using small broaching files of which there a 2 types. A cutting broach this has 4 or 5 sides to it and as per description cuts holes larger. Basically a drill but with sharp sides for its full length and also with a tapered  thickness to its length, this enables many hole sizes to be achieved. Another type would be a smoothing broach, similar in shape and design but this has no cutting surface to it, and can be used to smooth out the hole made by the cutting broach, or can if used correctly on its own can gently open up a hole size by manipulation  and compression of the material worked on. These are readily available on ebay for little money depending on the quality  purchased. And occasionally  crop up second hand in good quantities and qualities for again very little money. I must give a word of caution though and that is gently and slowly does it, it can be easy to overshoot the mark and end up with a hole too large or even broken out  which results in needing another hand or a hole size reduction with a staking kit, now becoming an expensive tool purchase if choosing that route. But worthwhile having when ready to move up a skill level as it has many and varied uses. I must add that with it being a second hand hole resize the obvious  difficulty of having no through hole to work with proceed with even more caution to avoid penetration of the hand front face. I hope some of this info will be of good use to you. Any queries I would be more than happy to try to answer  for you as I'm sure many other members with other ideas and ways of doing things.

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