Jump to content

Installing 2836 hands on NH35?


Recommended Posts

Hello my friends, I wish you all a happy new year!

I have some hands that I had planned to use on a 2836 movement but I am considering now swapping to NH35.

Hands size are like this:

2836: 1.50, .90, .25

Nh35: 1.50, .90, .21

So the hour and minute hands will work but the second hand hole is bigger.

Will it work on NH35? Is it just a matter of pressing it a little harder? Is there a special tool that allows to press the .25 to .21?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, panchoskywalker said:

Will it work on NH35? Is it just a matter of pressing it a little harder? Is there a special tool that allows to press the .25 to .21?

If your seconds hand bought for a 28xx is .25, then is too large for a NH3x with a .21 pivot. You can try closing its tube a little with a pin vice, but no guarantee that will come out well.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 1/4/2022 at 2:31 PM, panchoskywalker said:

Hello my friends, I wish you all a happy new year!

I have some hands that I had planned to use on a 2836 movement but I am considering now swapping to NH35.

Hands size are like this:

2836: 1.50, .90, .25

Nh35: 1.50, .90, .21

So the hour and minute hands will work but the second hand hole is bigger.

Will it work on NH35? Is it just a matter of pressing it a little harder? Is there a special tool that allows to press the .25 to .21?

 

Hi. I was just routing around the site looking for a topic to catch my interest and came across your question. Thought I'd try to give a little help as this same problem crops up with me occasionally when I encounter a missing or damaged watch hand. You may have this sorted already but I will continue  in case not. Firstly I will state that I am very much an amateur, but still have a modicum of experience and think logically. So I wouldn't  advise trying to force watch parts of any kind, the insides of a watch can be very delicate especially the train wheels and thier pivots. In particular the shaft that the second hand attaches to is fairly long and thin and if a subdial second hand is an extremely thin and delicate shaft, also jewel movement or damage may result if forced pressure is used on any particular train wheel shaft. If the hole of the hand you are attaching is too small, then this could be carefully made larger also known as broaching. This is done using small broaching files of which there a 2 types. A cutting broach this has 4 or 5 sides to it and as per description cuts holes larger. Basically a drill but with sharp sides for its full length and also with a tapered  thickness to its length, this enables many hole sizes to be achieved. Another type would be a smoothing broach, similar in shape and design but this has no cutting surface to it, and can be used to smooth out the hole made by the cutting broach, or can if used correctly on its own can gently open up a hole size by manipulation  and compression of the material worked on. These are readily available on ebay for little money depending on the quality  purchased. And occasionally  crop up second hand in good quantities and qualities for again very little money. I must give a word of caution though and that is gently and slowly does it, it can be easy to overshoot the mark and end up with a hole too large or even broken out  which results in needing another hand or a hole size reduction with a staking kit, now becoming an expensive tool purchase if choosing that route. But worthwhile having when ready to move up a skill level as it has many and varied uses. I must add that with it being a second hand hole resize the obvious  difficulty of having no through hole to work with proceed with even more caution to avoid penetration of the hand front face. I hope some of this info will be of good use to you. Any queries I would be more than happy to try to answer  for you as I'm sure many other members with other ideas and ways of doing things.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thats a good record Michael,  i always do a quick scan through sone of the  feedback comments to make sure there are a good few of them relating to sales and not just purchaese.  Feedback can be faked but you can usually spot the dodgy sellers. I have heard that before about lots of orphan watches in Australia 🤔. How far overseas are you going with buying ? There are lots of good sellers here in the UK, shipping is a bit prohibitive though. Main reason for seeing non cased vintages watches would have been the scrapage of the precious metal cases. I think we decide early on what we want from the hobby, whether that is to repair for the fun, enjoyment and sheer challenge of learning something obscure.  To collect watches and have that ability to maintain them, to gain financially from re-sale or a mixture of those. Its also important to remain aware of how deep the rabbit hole goes and how much money it takes to continue the descent. 
    • No, trus me, this is totally wrong. Firs of all, there is theoretical lenght for a fixed other parameters (spring thickness, barrel internal diameter and arbour diameter), which will give maximal power reserve. This is written in all text books, but I have never seen in  the text books mathematical expression (formula) of the relation lenght/power reserve. I am to lazy to generate that expression now, but will draw for You the graphical representation of it. As You can see, there is a maximum in the middle, but the slope near the maximum is really small, so even change of the lenght of let say +/- 30% doesn't lead to significant change of the power reserve. More to that, sometimes movement designers put much longer springs in the barrels than the theoretical lenght for maximm reserve.  This is ecpecially in high grade movements. You will sometimes see that the spring covers not the half, but actually 2/3 of the barrel free space. The designers compensate this loss of power reserve by usage of bigger barrels. This way they achieve much smaller difference in full wind / end of power reserve torque. In such case, reducing the spring lenght leads to increasing of power reserve...
    • Hi you can get parts/ tech sheets from cousins uk on therir down lost page, also print rest has some scattered about, cas ker, Esslingers, my retro watches, watch guy there is a few to trawl
    • I only buy mechanical personally, as it's all that interests me. There are a few electronic movements I find interesting, but they're not the sort I tend to see very often at all, and wouldn't come up in any of my searches. I have been given a few quartz watches over the years, but they all just sit in a bag in a drawer. Once I hit some critical mass, I'll hopefully get enough motivation to either sell or donate them.
×
×
  • Create New...