Jump to content

Levin #11 a little wonky!!

LittleWatchShop
 Share

Recommended Posts

JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

Interesting video? You didn't give us a background history was it working before and now it's not or this is the first time you're trying to use it? Then I assume you did the usual things like take it out make sure everything is nice and clean. Also it is the correct Chuck for the lathe?

Then minor concern which is there's nothing in there?

Then even running at the slowest speed on YouTube it's hard to tell what's going on other than it doesn't look like it's around anymore? In other words I can't tell if it's wobbling in and out it looks like it's centered in the lathe itself but I have a weird feeling I'm seeing something other than it's out around or in addition to it but I can't put a finger on it.

 

LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Other collets are fine.  The collet was simply plucked from my set of Levin collets and this is what I got.  I know I did not inflict the damage because I only acquired these recently (via ebay for $$$$$$$).  The rest of the collet that seats into the spindle seems perfect.  I will inspect it again.

Since my return to watchmaking (a year now), I have done a lot of lath work...mostly playing and learning...and have not seen this behavior among any of my large selection of collets.

JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, JohnR725 said:

Then minor concern which is there's nothing in there?

Noticed this peculiar Comment? The reason I pointed that out is as you're well aware the collets are designed to hold things of specific sizes. They don't like to clamp down on things either too small or too big as that can be an issue. So I'm not even sure if you can actually test the collet without putting an object in of the specific size. Except in your case that thing is grossly out Of round so I don't know if somebody abused it and that's what were seeing or not? But I do think a proper test to put something in of the exact right size and holding that and seeing what happens.

nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

Check for a burr or damage on the collet body, often near the key slot, and anything on the tapered area of the head. Sometimes a metal chip will get squished and stick to the head and can be very hard to see.

 

It could just be that in the past someone tried to crank it down on a 0.8mm part with water pump pliers, or who knows what. Levin collets are some of the best so no way it left the factory like that.

LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
  • Author
Posted
18 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

Noticed this peculiar Comment? The reason I pointed that out is as you're well aware the collets are designed to hold things of specific sizes. They don't like to clamp down on things either too small or too big as that can be an issue. So I'm not even sure if you can actually test the collet without putting an object in of the specific size. Except in your case that thing is grossly out Of round so I don't know if somebody abused it and that's what were seeing or not? But I do think a proper test to put something in of the exact right size and holding that and seeing what happens.

I first noticed this when I had material inserted in the collet and saw it undulating up and down.  Then I took the material out to make the video.

Yes, I know about proper sizing and am careful to insure that.  I even have half sizes between 1 and 10.

LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Some pictures.

The overlay with a true circle indicates one of the leaves of the collet is off but one would expect the spindle to pull it in position.  Maybe somebody to a broach to the thing??  I have a video.  Will post when it is uploaded.

2021-12-06 13_30_45-IMG_7563.JPG ‎- Photos.png

2021-12-06 13_31_00-IMG_7564.JPG ‎- Photos.png

2021-12-06 13_33_47-Various reads.vsd - Microsoft Visio.png

LittleWatchShop Distinguished Member

LittleWatchShop

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, rodabod said:

That's really odd. I wonder if it could be a factory reject.

Yup...it is a head scratcher for sure.  I removed it from my collet box and replaced it with a non-Levin collet that does work.

JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

If we exclude factory defect we also have they been around for a long time and Seen a lot of use not necessarily good. Like watches all sorts of undesirable things may have occurred. Most people don't realize how critical the size is And they just shove in things that are either too big or too small and that's not good.

If you insert something of the exact right size how does it seemed to fit? In other words if somebody had Modified and opened it up is it still the correct size or is it too big?

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nucejoe
      Removing the hairspring from a ETA 2846 balance

      By Nucejoe · Posted

      Link below shows the tool used to push the stud out. You can make the tool , just file a screwdriver to this shape.  https://www.esslinger.com/bergeon-16918-etachron-stud-remover-screwdriver/ There are vids on YouTube showing how the stud is to be  push out. Shouldn't get over creative, just go by this approach.  Good luck.
    • GPrideaux
      Seiko 6105 crown gasket service

      By GPrideaux · Posted

      I tried pushing to dome the washer in and had no success, but stuffing it full of o-ring gaskets worked much better than I expected. It takes some pressure but not as much as you might imagine, but it does take patience ... and a couple of dozen small gaskets. I used the pendant tube of a watch case to stuff the gaskets in as I didn't have a way to machine a tool to suit.
    • GPrideaux
      Removing the hairspring from a ETA 2846 balance

      By GPrideaux · Posted

      I can't answer your question, sorry, but you probably don't what to transfer the spring to a new wheel. Springs and wheels are paired ("vibrated" together) to get the right timing and transferring the spring to a new wheel is quite likely to see you minutes per day out with no way to correct it. Some may tell you to replace the balance staff, but if you're a beginner you're probably better off sourcing a replacement "balance complete" if you can: staff, roller, wheel and spring already assembled as a unit.
    • GPrideaux
      Bulova Rubaiyat 1920/21

      By GPrideaux · Posted

      I'm sure it's the ancien. My measurements: A = 342. The slight bend in the pivot would make much less than a thousandth of a mm difference to this so I don't think 348 is plausible unless there has been significant wear on the pivots. B is hard to measure without first removing the balance wheel. I measured to the other side of the balance wheel as best I could (263) then subtracted the thickness of the wheel (69) to get 194. This could easily be three or four hundredths out, so 195 looks right. (196 could also be right.) J couldn't be measured. I did my best to measure where the balance wheel has been riveted on and got about 95, so 85 before riveting is plausible. (60 is not.) G again couldn't be measured without first removing the roller. I get 37 where the staff emerges from the roller so 41 at the other end of the taper seems plausible. (43 is also plausible to me.) K = 60. (Definitely larger than 55.)   I've never replaced a balance staff; it'll be a new adventure for me. I'll have to read up on how to maximise my chance of removing the old one without damaging the balance wheel without having access to a lathe. I also need to explore how to remove the roller without damaging it. I won't actually place an order until I've gone through the rest of the movement. With the number of issues I've already found, I'll be amazed if I don't have more surprises in store. There are some watch part suppliers in Australia but nothing like Cousins or Otto Frei or Jules Borel. AllTimeCo is fine for basic parts for modern watches: batteries, bands, some crowns, stems, seals, movements, some tools, etc., but not really anything for vintage watches. Australian Jewellers Supplies is similar. Cousins charges about £9 for shipping to Australia which is about AU$19 and not too bad (considering Australian parcel post is $11) but I still want to minimise the number of times I'm paying it. I need to explore other options closer to home. There may be something in Singapore or China that would have what I want and ship it faster/more economically.  
    • steve1811uk
      Rolex 3135 rate variation with temperature

      By steve1811uk · Posted

      Hi, I just finished the service of a Rolex 3135. Amplitude is great, 295 degrees horizontal after 2 hours and 280 after 12 hours. Vertical positions are 25 degrees down on those. I am however seeing a rate variation with temperature. I have 0 SPD on wrist, say 38 degrees and +7 SPD at 18 degrees room temperature. That equates to +0.35 SPD which is within spec I believe (+-0.5 SPD/ Deg C max). It just seems more than I would expect from such a high quality movement. To put that in context, I see similar rate variation with temperature for a Seiko 7S26. Just wondering what you guys see. Thanks, Steve.
×
×
  • Create New...