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Success, and failure. Balance is back together. I need to adjust the position though as the roller jewel is way of. More than that though, rookie mistake. I set the hair spring between the pins, forgetting that to rotating pin is oval. So when I close it up the hair spring is in contact with the outer regulator pin. I assume that's bad. At rest, without the outer pin rotated closed, it sits like this (edit, hadn't realised that photo didn't come out. The spring isnt touching either pin in this photo, but the outer pin wasnt rotated. The gap between the spring and the inner pin is about the width of the hair spring. Just to be clear width, not thickness) Oh, and the pivots look like this. It's not a banana, it's just because of multiple lenses and trying to get a high mag photo Slightly wonky jewel But, the free oscillation test, 180 degrees, USSR makes that 53 seconds -
Welcome the the forum. Are you talking about the part of the stem that fits to the crown? Photos would help. -
By Pigskinfanboy · Posted
Thank you for the warm welcome. Cleaning stakes is probably 80% of what I do daily 😳. I had issues with severe flash rust with other things and I haven’t tried my ultrasonic cleaner with stakes yet. I probably will now just to see how it works out. I probably have 3-4 thousand stakes at the moment and was looking for a way to clean/polish large amounts at one time. I started out using Evap O Rust soaks, which worked but still required hand polishing and severe flash rust usually happened fast. I found a website that polishes jewelry in a vibratory type polisher so I picked up a large one to try out. (Eventually got a smaller one also). I started out with a ceramic type media, It did a great job, but I still had to hand polish each and every one and it left them like a muddy mess and clogged the ends easily. I then found out the big companies that specialize in polishing small pieces used a stainless steel media to clean and polish at the same time. Evidently using this method somehow burnished the stakes and prevented them from rusting easily. To get an even nicer finish they used a wet polish method and that has been the key to getting my best finish with large amounts of stakes. It just basically removes any rust and corrosion and leaves a very nice finish. I can’t measure any loss of material with a micrometer or a digital dial caliper. Some of these stakes are from the early 1900’s and are not as durable as the newer stakes, so it varies some. I have piles of damaged stakes that won’t make the cut but I’m saving in case I ever get a lathe 😂. I did notice that sometimes the holes were clogged up and still needed to clean them manually. I wonder if the Ultrasonic process would fix that ? Before I ship a set I still manually go through each and every stake but sometimes I slip up and miss one or two. My processes are getting better and I’m getting more organized as I go. Thanks for sharing your process. I have some Boley stuff also that I am hoping to finish up one day. Thank you very much for the welcome and I hope to visit your country one day ! As a side note, we have 2 of your countrymen that have been living with us the last couple of years off an on while they study and play football at the local university , they are teammates of our sons “Soccer” team and we have really enjoyed hosting them and learning about 🏴. Every time they go home for a visit they bring us lots of sweets, chocolates and gifts from their parents when they return . They are exceptional young men and great ambassadors. -
In the process of laser engraving the plate, it is crucial to set the correct engraving depth. If the depth is too deep, it may result in a murky pad printing effect, while if it is too shallow, the lines may become disconnected, leading to broken lines. On flat dials without texture, using a harder silicone pad for pad printing will yield better results. The hardness of the silicone pad directly affects the thickness of the lines, and adjusting the hardness appropriately is key to achieving precise printing. Additionally, the ink ratio is another critical factor in successful pad printing. Adding too much thinner will cause the lines to become unclear, while too little thinner may cause the ink to cure too quickly, resulting in broken lines during printing. In summary, laser engraving, silicone pad hardness, and ink ratio are all interrelated, and each step can affect the final result. These steps require extensive practice and experimentation to find the most suitable formula. I hope these insights can provide some useful reference and help! -
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Welcome to the forum, Rick! Cool story! Always appreciate if people take a little more time to introduce themselves. Coincidentally, I spent a few hours this weeks cleaning out the insides of all my staking set punches (a German Boley set) and cleaning everything in the ultrasonic. Not really a restoration, but loved the feeling of seeing the set in full shine again and knowing that I can use it without worrying about clogged punches. There's often threads where members look for buying advice for their first staking sets. Your inputs will certainly be appreciated.
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