Jump to content

Baby steps for a novice, and lessons learned.


Recommended Posts

Good evening all,

I've been working thus far on antique junk pocket watch movements which for all but a couple of examples, were missing parts.  This was to get comfortable learning how to use the tools and dis-and then assemble, etc.

I recently decided to gravitate in the other direction regarding size and began working on non-working micro watches.  The 30's era ladies wristwatches, the ones you can put the movement on a quarter with room to spare.  This was and remains quite a challenge.  I use an Optivisor #5 with an attached loupe for working on watches and with those small watches the loupe is used a lot.  I started with a couple watches I knew didn't work at all and did not get them working.  The third one I did, very weakly.  It gets a little discouraging to find that pivots are broken off, or pallet jewel is broken or whatever.  I don't have the tools to replace those.  Yet! 

Lessons learned:  Take pics.  Take more pics. Use something to provide a soft impact zone when pushing out a taper pin (ask me how I know...I never found it).  A microscope is a good thing, especially on those small movements.  Don't use force, even if G.I. Joe has been in there previously using a pneumatic drill to tighten up those screws.  Oil is your friend there.  Attach the set lever when putting in the set lever screw if a bridge goes over the screw.  Think about how the dial comes off if it doesn't have conventional dial feet like a pocket watch has (this was new to me not having worked on wristwatches yet).  Don't forget to put away the hand removers and start using one as a screwdriver.  There seems to be a learning curve to everything, even sharpening screwdrivers.  Don't multi-task when holding a screw slightly larger than a grain of sand!  I've learned I have a lot more to learn.

I'm not dropping screws or parts much, taper pin notwithstanding, and surprisingly to me, even with my slight tremor I can still manage the parts well enough most of the time.  I've got serious money into this now, with more tools I'll want to buy at some point.  I'm very good at hand cleaning I think.  I have an ultrasonic but still hand clean.  I need someone to smack me on the head and say, "Idiot!" from time to time to teach me what I've done wrong, but I say it aloud to myself anyway.  I've used polywatch and it works great.  Have not used my crystal press yet but will soon I think, as I picked up a batch of NOS crystals on ebay, cheap.  I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the hairspring when there's no boot or eccentric screw to turn and the curb pins can't seemingly be moved.  Surely it wasn't designed to have the curb pins manually spread to remove the hairspring, or maybe it comes out once the stud is freed?  I've not tried that yet on the movements which don't have the boot and curb pin. I have a balance I can test it on as I stupidly put one of those tiny balances in one dip and let go of the spring.  As I pulled the balance out I didn't think to try to capture the spring and the drag of the spring through the one dip lengthened the spring!  That goes under "lessons learned."  So I'm learning, I'm having fun, I haven't damaged anything of value but I haven't properly fixed anything yet either.  Progress?

Thanks for reading. 

chadman

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, chadman said:

even with my slight tremor

One trick I saw on a video...when screwing in a screw, use a pair of tweezers to hold the the shaft of the screwdriver to stabilize it.  This addresses the shakes as well as the tendency to exert too much pressure causing any number of adverse events.  I dont do this all the time, but during some critical times.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, chadman said:

I'm still trying to figure out how to remove the hairspring when there's no boot or eccentric screw to turn and the curb pins can't seemingly be moved.

If you post a picture and a movement i.d. someone will be sure to know.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • One-dip or naphtha should be safe, but are you sure it isn't magnetized?  I would also check that.  Although, if that balance is from an Elgin 760 0r 761, I would think it would have a hairspring of non-magnetic alloy.
    • Hi, Is there a spell check function available when you are posting ? Regards CJ
    • Hi John I just did a Seiko Lord-Matic a front loader without a split stem, I used a crystal lift to remove it, although I had to have it that tight I though I was going to break the lift before the crystal would budge. So I decided that the press would be a better option as I think crystals with tension rings resist a lot of compressing. I used a crystal press to repalce it and the bezel with no issues, obviuosly a different watch to the Omega. I just took my time and kept inspecting the installation progress bit by bit Regards CJ
    • Hello All, I’m replacing the crystal in an Omega Dynamic, # 165.039, which houses a cal 552, installed through the front of the case. The replacement Sterncreuz crystal is, like the original, with tension ring. I removed the crystal using a compressed air technique to pop it out.  (I have a crystal lift, but I’m always fearful of marking the crystal edges and so avoid using it as much as possible). Now to the replacement -  any tips on putting the crystal back in?  Am I obliged to using my dreaded crystal lift to complete the task, or how about a crystal press?  I’ve put lots of crystals in using a press, but never with the movement in the watch. The thought of using one with a front-loader makes me very nervous, with the fully assembled watch sitting under the press. How would more experienced folks proceed here? Any advice, gratefully received… John Down Under…
    • No thats straight out of the watch as i found it the balance wheel is almost as bad. I've never seen so much material removed.
×
×
  • Create New...