Jump to content

Help needed! Omega Cal. 1020 service


Recommended Posts

Hello and thank you to all who are reading this! Ive been servicing my own watches for about a year now and have worked my way up to servicing my seamster. I assembled the movement last night, but decided to wait on casing it up until this morning. I threw it up on the timegrapher to regulate it and ended up with pretty good results with minimal positional error. This morning, before casing it up, I checked it on the grapher again and the reading is off. Though the machine says the rate and amplitude are the same as last night, the line drawn has now become erratic and beat the beat error is now fluctuating between about .1 and .8 ms. Im guessing another cleaning and oiling is due, but I wanted to hear if any of you guys had any input. This is what its reading IMG_5690.HEIC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've serviced several Omega 102x movements, and I've noticed that they're rather quiet, so my timegrapher will sometimes struggle to get a clean reading.  I've made some measurements, and the signal from the 1020 will be 100 times smaller than an old pocket watch.  I'm not familiar with your timegrapher, but maybe adjust the gain settings?

If you can see that the balance has good amplitude, and you're confident in your cleaning/oiling, I would wear it and see what kind of performance you get.   

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 I have a link to a website below that you can use to convert your image files to JPEG which the discussion group can look at versus the file you have which the discussion group Process and most people probably can't look at it.

11 hours ago, Walsey said:

I've serviced several Omega 102x movements, and I've noticed that they're rather quiet, so my timegrapher will sometimes struggle to get a clean reading.  I've made some measurements, and the signal from the 1020 will be 100 times smaller than an old pocket watch.  I'm not familiar with your timegrapher, but maybe adjust the gain settings?

out of curiosity which timing machine are you using?

19 hours ago, limpnoodle said:

I assembled the movement last night, but decided to wait on casing it up until this morning. I threw it up on the timegrapher to regulate it and ended up with pretty good results with minimal positional error. 

it would be nice if you'd wind it up again give us a photographs in preferably two positions. Either dial up or dial down and one of the crown positions like crown down fully wound up. but as a reminder fully wound up means you wind it all the way up but let it run about 30 minutes and then put it on the machine.

19 hours ago, limpnoodle said:

Im guessing another cleaning and oiling is due

out of curiosity how did you clean this watch? Then did you remove or replace the mainspring? Tell us about your lubrication techniques

then background history what was the watch doing before you serviced it?

 

 

https://heictojpg.com/

IMG_5690.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I forgot for up above it would also be nice to have a picture of you holding the watch in the movement holder so we can see if there was an issue with how the machines picking up the watch plus whether you've ever had this happen before?

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

From my experience for some movements the correct setting of the gain makes a great difference. Try increasing or lowering it and see if you can get a more stable reading. Also try putting it on the timegrapher without a case if you haven't already. Sometimes it can be possible that the reading gets disrupted by other devices nearby, also check on that ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As @handwound says, try it without the case. Being in the case can cause extra noise/errors on the signal, especially if it's a quiet movement. 

I'm working on a Seiko 4006 and have it on the timegrapher this morning. The second picture is where I've loosened the screw on the holder slightly - similar to being in an open case and not held securely - you can see extra noise. That's why  I always put the movement directly in the timegrapher.

 

20210203_100733.thumb.jpg.fb3a11fc351d167009db7c44428422d7.jpg

20210203_100930.thumb.jpg.a52ba9129b28217f67e2c90d2757d089.jpg

Edited by mikepilk
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The wheels turned fine. I set the escape wheel in the epoxy when it had just ‘skinned’ and wasn’t set, made sure it spun with the 4th wheel, and let it set.    After cleaning I assembled the barrel and wheel train - all fine. Moving the barrel the escape wheel spun freely. I put a bit of 9010 in my epoxy setting.    It went wrong when I put the pallet fork in. It wasn’t seated right (no jewels) and the escape wheel  knocked a pallet jewel out. I have no idea how to reset a pallet jewel - epoxy again? I’m not spending any more time on this one - it’s missing hands and the front half of the case anyway, and I have more watches ready to put on the bench. 
    • No John, we don't want Mark to change anything, we are just scared of losing a brilliant forum and losing contact with each other.  As pointed out, this forum is full of knowledge and I for one,  consider the regulars friends. I would hate to lose contact with you and the others.   PS, this forum is really important to me. 
    • one little minor problem with your chemistry experiment here which is what exactly is epilam? In other words is it an exact substance with the chemical you specify or is it a term? For instance originally it was steric acid either dissolved in some sort of solvent or it was applied by vaporizing it. Then now it's all kinds of different things the watch companies all have different ideas there's a whole bunch of patents. So is not always an exact substance.   let me snip out a image from the patent that I attached up above. Notice I highlighted something it seems to disagree with your evaluation.  
    • I guess You had to try, as it would be hard to sleep without that try, but, I know the result before the experiment... As I told before, the friction will be so big that the wheel will not turn. The pivots have to be thin and polished - the bigger the number of the wheel (2th, 3gh, 4th...), the thinner the pivot. What You are trying to do is possible, but forming the new thin pivot must be done on lathe. Thus the wheel will get shorter, but can have new pivot without the drilling for normal standard repivoting. Then piece of brass can be soldered under the pivot hole in the bridge and new hole drilled in it to form the new bearing.  Well, this way is not the recommended one, not quite correct, but it is possible to do for the excersize... When I say lathe, lathe may be verry simple, someting like turns, but made of what one has in reach of his hands. If You want to try, I will try to guide
    • yes by all means let's gather up our weapons tar feathers find the nearest tree in case Mark is not agreeable to our terms on our demands and storm his Castle. I don't quite understand what you're trying to do here? In other words you want Mark to somehow guarantee that the group will live on forever no matter what? You want Mark to somehow change his business model of what is trying to do or should we just take the group away from him? oh and is quite possible that Mark never realized that his discussion group would take on a life of its own. That the members of the group would like to continue on forever.  
×
×
  • Create New...