Jump to content

To polish or leave alone


Marty

Recommended Posts

Evening all

Just bought this clock and was wondering if i should polish the case or leave it as is. The picture makes it look a lot brighter than it is in reality, would you consider tarnished brass as patina, my personal thought is that patina is more a case of wear / distress due to repeated use / rubbing over a period of time.

Looking forward to your thoughts.

Marty

 

Lantern Clock.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Marty said:

Evening all

Just bought this clock and was wondering if i should polish the case or leave it as is. The picture makes it look a lot brighter than it is in reality, would you consider tarnished brass as patina, my personal thought is that patina is more a case of wear / distress due to repeated use / rubbing over a period of time.

Looking forward to your thoughts.

Marty

I am not big fan of polishing vintage or antique watch cases or clocks. Leave it as-is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How would you like it to look. Looking at the photo it looks as if you collect clocks. If you do decide to polish it when that is done use a clear  lacquer this will prevent it from tarnish. I don't like seeing a brass clock case caked in old dry brasso which has turned green or a whitish powder. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This all comes down to your personal taste, these brass clocks are bolted together from many separate castings to clean the case properly you would have to break it down to its component parts in order to clean, I would soak in a weak clock cleaning solution, then clean with Brasso and re soak the parts and then clean in detergent.

As you have pointed out the idea is not to remove every defect or scratch you see, it is an absolute must to lacquer the brass after cleaning or all you work will soon be lost and the case will again tarnish.

Clear lacquers will not alter the colour of the brass, but you can also buy gold tone lacquers these if applied correctly will give you a finish almost indistinguishable from a gilt case.

The clock below I have just finished its a carriage clock that I bought years ago but have just got round to servicing, the case on this was very tarnished and dirty with plenty of old polish, the brass was also pitted this I can live with so would not try to polish it out I used a mid tone gold lacquer mixed 50/50 with a clear lacquer to get the tone I wanted, the clock should remain like this with no need to polish for many years.

P1000746.thumb.JPG.e762885c1f2fd7a6fb6afeaf8255128a.JPGP1000747.thumb.JPG.e0ec8a97a03066986660e194af44a112.JPGP1000748.thumb.JPG.cc9ade8d61f9b841e1ebbe94bbe42997.JPG

 

Edited by wls1971
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good evening all

thanks for taking the time to reply. 

Poljot, looks like it's going to be a polish on this one. 

OH, WLS1971,I think I will polish it maybe not to a brilliant polish, I will start with a good clean as WLS1971 suggests with clock cleaning solution (i have some that has been used so is weak) and see how it looks, then a light polish, basically take it one step at a time until I get the finish that looks right. WS1971 I think I will get some toned lacquers and do some test applications for future reference, but probably use clear on this one. The brasso residue does look awful, I think I'm going to need a supply of tooth brushes.

Your right it does look like gilt, looks really nice.

Thanks for help it's much appreciated. Cracking forum.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Marty said:

Poljot, looks like it's going to be a polish on this one.

I admire your courage! There will be lots of work!

I left my Japy Freres clock as-is. Well, not exactly as-is. I disassembled the case and the movement just to clean the case gently and to service the movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Poljot, This may end up just being a gentle clean, I'll take a step at a time until I get the look that I think is right. It will be a while before i get round to working on this as I have a tortoisesheel boule bracket clock and a "monastary clock" that are ahead in the queue as well as 6 longcase clocks to restore.

Marty

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When restoring a clock you need to know what it would be like when it was new. You should take it to that stage and nothing more. You could alter its value to the extent it could end up worthless. In my time I would always follow after researching the methods that were used in times past. Whatever you do don’t use motorised tools such as polishing mops or those dreadful dremel tools.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that I'm going to have a similar dilemma with this pewter cased electric clock when it arrives.....

164350863_FerrantiNo12clockbottomview.thumb.jpg.355f9d08e91d3cea0964585a5b353b0f.jpg84212393_FerrantiNo12clockfront2.thumb.jpg.4933c4784d1bf051085278c3fa199cea.jpg109926871_FerrantiNo12clockobliqueview.thumb.jpg.40957407e6638e8ff422fb21605224b4.jpg

I found a picture of a similar pewter cased Ferranti clock and like the appearance, but how to achive the same look on my one?

 

Ferranti pewter clock.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

There's plenty of ways to clean Pewter on google. My biggest concern would be that dial.  

I think I have got that covered as I have this one, with the same movement, and almost identical dial, incoming...

148105756_FerrantiModelNo2.thumb.jpg.34078ff7401989adb2aef2653ac25dd7.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/16/2020 at 10:40 AM, oldhippy said:

There's plenty of ways to clean Pewter on google. My biggest concern would be that dial.  

Oh ye of little faith?, original dial carefully cleaned with cotton buds, initially using saliva ? to disolve the main stain, then VERY carefully with mild soap and warm water to bring the less virulent discoloration off......I missed my vocation in life as an art restorer?. Soap and water treatment on the case finished with a coating of car polish......

A trio of Ferrantis.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hell0 @nevenbekriev. Thank you for your advice. I have removed the old setting using my staking set--I will keep the KIF spring, since it is still good.  I am awaiting the replacement setting, and will update when I do that. In the mean time, I looked at the escape wheel and it looks ok. What do you think?    
    • Aloha All, I recently bought this Seitz tool on eBay, but it is missing some pushers reamers.  I ended up ordering new parts for those that were missing before I received the actual Seitz tool (bad idea).   Upon inspecting the pushers/bits, I noticed 23 of the 56 provided with the set had no numbers. Further inspection revealed a huge difference in the quality of those unnumbered.  Do all Seitz pushers/bits have a number on them?  I'm pretty sure that 33 of the 56 I received are cheap Chinese knockoffs.  The worst part is that I ordered $80 of parts to replace the missing pushers/bits, and now I'm looking to return the tool. I'm not crazy, right? If these are Seitz parts, they should all be numbered, correct? The first two pictures are the Seitz (numbered), and the other pictures are the suspect parts.  Will I even be able to get a refund?  Thanks, Frank     
    • It was £10 + min fee, total £16, could not leave it there. Its a Stanton A.D.2. http://stanton-instruments.co.uk/
    • Chief- The picture below shows the three parts from the dial side that are most useful to "fingerprint" a movement in conjunction with the diameter of the movement.  That's why forum participants are always asking for dial side photos in posts asking for identification.  As far as the setting lever screw, it actually sits loose in the main plate. The threads engage the setting lever below, and the elongated stem above the shoulder sticks through a hole in one of the bridge plates so that it's held captive if unscrewed all the way.  So you may be fine as far as that goes. 
    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
×
×
  • Create New...