Jump to content

Seiko

Popescu

By Popescu
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Popescu New Member

Popescu

Posted
Posted

Good morning, I saw on YouTube that you are a specialist in watch repairs, I have unseiko 7t32-7c60, it works but the central second indicator does not move. I pressed the buttons as I saw on YouTube but it doesn't move, you can help me with a video, thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
les13 Member

les13

Posted
Posted

This forum is part of Mark’s watch repair lessons web site. It is for people like me, and maybe you, who want to learn more about watch repair. The great thing about this forum is that there are lots of knowledgeable people here who are willing to nudge you in the right direction.

I am not qualified to answer your question, but that has never stopped me before. There are a few items on quartz movements that are repairable. However, many times the cost of a new movement is cheaper than the repair, especially if it is an internal problem. You might search on YouTube for quartz movement replacement. You might also go to esslinger.com and look, usually at the bottom of the page, for “watch repair guides”. They have some good videos.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
watchweasol Distinguished Member

watchweasol

Posted
Posted

Regarding the loss of the function on your Seiko t32 .  In the first place the movement is now obsolete and hard to come by on Ebay but working watches do turn up at a price. the t32 also uses the same movement used in pulsar 182b and Yemma again at a price as spares and new movements are difficult to get. They are a wach movement with many plastic parts, not a lot of watchmakers like to repair them. The attached technical sheets will explain why.

7T32B&7T42B.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Neverenoughwatches
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      It shouldn't be attached    The pinions look independent of each other, not in alignment,  but the clip is bothering me or have you just placed that on the pivot end? 
    • RichardHarris123
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      Also at a strange angle  
    • Neverenoughwatches
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      What this extra disk next to the pinion? Thats not part of the assembly 
    • Bonefixer
      AS2063 - hand setting

      By Bonefixer · Posted

      It looks like the canon pinion function is part of this great wheel. The pinion nearest the clip runs the minute wheel on the dual side. The pinion nearest the wheel is driven by a small wheel from under the setting lever cover plate that engages in hand setting position.    So when assembled the crown was driving the whole great train. Does this mean the pinions are too tight? Should I attempt to disassemble this great wheel and lubricants?
    • Endeavor
      New balance staff not riveting to balance

      By Endeavor · Posted

      Picking up this side-tracked post again as I just removed a balance staff of a 1920's Omega (35,5L-T1) I was impressed by the way @Delgetti had his setup when he had to change out a balance-staff (https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28854-new-balance-staff-not-riveting-to-balance/page/2/#comment-244054 Not only that, but also the idea of removing the seat first before punching the staff out from the seat-side, avoiding the whole discussion of the rivet yes/no enlarging the hole. I didn't have the fancy clamps & tools Delgetti has, so I used my screw-head polishing tool. Initially I used #1500 grit diamond paste on the steel wheel, which kinda worked, but very slow. I changed to #800 grit diamond paste, which worked better, but still slow. Then I glued #240 sanding paper to the steel disk; That worked and the disk was hand-driven. Once close to the balance wheel, I took the sanding paper off and continued with #800 diamond paste. One can only do this when the balance wheel sits true on the staff and has no "wobble". I went on grinding until I saw some diamond paste on the rim of the balance wheel. This was as far as I could grind and it seemed that there wasn't much left of the seat. Carefully, with my staking set, I knocked the staff from the seat-side out. Turns out that the thickness of the seat left, now a small ring, was only 0.1mm. The balance wheel hole is in perfect shape and no damage done to the wheel at all. Of course, if the wheel has a "wobble" or isn't seated true on the balance staff, you can't get as close and there will be more left of the seat. In my case, it worked perfect 🙂 I'm very happy how this method worked out ! 😊  
×
×
  • Create New...